Hello! Thanks for letting me into your group. I have a 22RE 1986 Toyota Pickup Motorhome with a no start issue. I have narrowed it down to no fuel. I am able to start the truck with throttle body cleaner and it runs good for a few seconds. I have tested battery voltage to the connector right before the fuel pump and I am getting good voltage while cranking. I have temporarily jumpered the bypass relay plug to eliminate that as a problem, although I can feel it clicking when it is installed. I have several questions that I am hoping someone here can help with. First if there is a problem with the cold crank injector will it not run even after started? Does it need this to continue to run after the truck is started? How can I test the fuel pump? If it only runs while cranking, how can I hear it? Are there any other diagnostic steps I should be taking? I really appreciate any reply as I am desperate. I have to move out of my house in a couple days and this truck has always started and ran fine. I don't have money to tow this and I would have to try to borrow it. It has only sat for about 2 months without being started. I had a trickle charger on the battery. Also, anyone in the Denver area that is really good with these things and wants to help, I could offer beer but that's about it. Thanks in advance!

 

From my experie nce chasing no starts, best to start from the beginning. Sounds like it has spark so you're doing great so far. It's got to have airflow since youre spraying cleaner in and getting it to combust.

Since you're down to pretty much only fuel being the problem, you can force the fuel pump to work by turning ignition on (not starter) jumping terminals FP and B+ in the diagnostics block next to fusebox in the engine bay. It will power fuel pump no matter what so you can hear it running and hopefully fuel should be forced to the engine.

The car will start and run with this jumped but not super safe to keep it this way because the circuit opening relay being bypassed is a safety feature. Not expensive to replace with an oem Denso one.

Also worth noting that the air flow meter on the airbox has to be plugged in and the whole thing fully clamped together because the ignition cuts after a few seconds if not. It will also run very poorly/almost not at all if plugged in and not all put together and clamped down.