Rusted Rooster

I have a 1986 toyota pickup 22re engine that starts fine in temps above 20, but any lower than that, the engine starts up for 1 second, then dies. After that, the engine just cranks. The only way to start it is by injecting ether ether or gas into the throttle. It starts fine after that if it doesn't sit too long. Im pretty sure fuel is bleeding back to the tank after it sits in cold weather. I replaced the cold start injector, fuel filter and time switch. Should I try replacing the fuel pump or any other suggestions to what the problem might be? Thanks.

yoterr

when its -20 try turning the key on wait 5 or so sec then off, do this a couple of times, it cycles the fuel pump pressurizing the fuel lines, maybe this will help?

MudsharK

I also have the same issue with an 87 pickup up here in Canada. At just below freezing the truck is hard to start the same as u described unless the block heater is plugged in...then it starts fine, even at 20 below. It was about 7 below last week and I forgot to plug it in at work, it took me 10 minutes before it would finally start. At warmer temps, no issues. After plugging it in for awhile, i'tll start up no problem. Ive already replaced the fuel tank and pump (not because of this issue they needed changing anyway), and theres no change... I was thinkin maybe the cold start injector...but im not sure. Im dealing with another issue with it now, I think theres a short somewhere for the fuel pump wire, I had the same problem last year, its not starting at all ...another day troubleshooting

Rusted Rooster

hi yoterr and mudshark, thanks for the repleys....tried a few things today,now its 40 degrees here in illinois, so its starting fine, guess ill wait for that Canada cold to see whats next. this is a great forum for 22re enthusiast like me, sure someone will come up with the fix in time.....thanks again, Rusted Rooster.

fooboo

i had a difficult too...especially carburetor
takes forever to start the engine!! it took me
like 15-20mins to start the engine!! hate cold weather and also
during summer too...runs good but time to relaxed just cant start it!!
sucks....i need a quick start and maybe some tune up!!

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Try the fuel pump test jumper:
-http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/index.shtml#FuelPump

Magnusian

15-20 minutes!? Geeze, and I thought the fact it takes about a minute to get my 22R to start in sub-freezing (-10C-ish) temps was bad. It didn't even take much more than about 5 minutes to get it to start with my old, mostly dead battery at said temp.

Fooboo, take off your air filter housing and give the throttle linkage on your carb a good soak with some cleaner, work it back and forth until it moves smoothly and easily. Also check your choke plates too to make sure they're not all gunked up. That should reduce your start times to a couple minutes at least.

MudsharK

Thanks 4crawler, I was out doing the jumper test when you msg`d me...heres where i`m at..

with the ignition on, jumped B+ and FP didnt here the fuel pump at all. I do have fire to the quick connect just before the fuel pump. Only when cranking. I hooked an ohmeter to the other end of the quick connect that runs to the pump and was expecting to see a closed circuit but wasn`t reading anything, leading me to think theres a broken wire off the pump. If everything was hooked up properly, shouldnt i get an infinite reading...The pump has been changed a couple years ago and I can barely see a broken wire and would assume theyd still use the original wire. Two wires come out of the harness , through the quick connect...they are blue and white...Ive narrowed down the blue as being power to the fuel pump and the white must be ground...or am i wrong..

My question is... If im holding a test light on the fuel pump wire and just turn the key to the on postion, shouldnt i have power there for a second or two while it primes the system before cranking. There is constant power though while its turning over.

Thanks for the help.

EDIT:

My truck has some kind of intermittant short, not getting fuel...will just shut off randomly, would start fairly easy for awhile, but now its down for the count...tank and pump have been changed, lots of spark the truck has been running great untill a couple weeks ago...no sputtering or hesitation, just would shut off like i turned the key off and now will just roll over.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

With the jumper in, key in the ON position, should be constant power to the pump. There is no "priming" mode, the CO relay turns on in the key=START position, or when the jumper is installed w/ key-ON, or normally when the AFM flapper is pulled open by the engine running:

MudsharK

So without the jumper and if you just turn the key to the ON position...when you can hear the pump, there should be power at that blue wire for a couple seconds or no...I think theres a broken wire off the top of the fuel pump but im going to have till it warms up a bit before I can drop the tank and take a look.

Also im having a hard time finding where the COR is located in the truck..

Thanks

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

If you can hear the pump running (as it should) with the jumper=IN and key=ON, then the pump is running. Not sure which blue wire you are referring to, but if it feeds power to the pump, then yes it should have power to it under the same conditions as the pump running.


If you read that web page linked above, you would find:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...ORelayLocation

MudsharK

ok so if i disconnect the pump quick connect from the harness...theres 2 wires that go to the pump...white and blue...if everything is hooked up as it should, and theres a closed circut i should get an infinite reading or whatever on the ohmeter? And no reading would indicate a short or opening in either the wiring to and from the pump or the pump itself? ...im no mechanic by any means but can do moderate diagnosing with a testlight ohm and voltmeter.

thanks again

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Well, with the two wires to the pump, you would not really want to use an ohm meter to check them, unless you are checking continuity from the plug to the CO relay, for example. Without power, you would measure infinite ohms/open circuit, since the wires are not connected to anything. But with power on, the current would blow the fuse in your ohm meter. But you should measure 12 volts between those wires when the pump should be running.

PETDOC

My '88 4Runner with a 22re had a similar problem. Above freezing no problems, but the lower the temp got the harder it was to start until it wouldn't. I went to Ebay and bought a used cold start fuel injector for about $5 and it solved the problem. New ones are very expensive.

MudsharK

Thanks 4crawler, that makes sense... ill drop the tank when its warmer and take a look to make sure the fuel pump is wired up and no broken/tore wires. Theres a wire that doesnt seem to be attached to anything but its hard to see where it goes/comes from and what color it is...ill post when I find out whats going on.

As for starting hard in cold weather, i'll pick up a cold start injector next time im at the boneyard or look for one on ebay.


Thanks guys for the help.

dhaags11

where is the cold start switch?

Bigblock

Check your older trucks for a leaking W/S! I had one that leaked into the COR and would freeze in cold weather rendering it useless.

mitutoyo

These older trucks also have traditional style pintle type fuel injectors which do not atomize fuel very well. This style and age of injector always benefits from a good cleaning. This is the most over looked part of the fuel system.