My truck has been in my friends garage for 2 weeks now after when it stopped idling and would die when given throttle. Decided to replace the cheap Chinese carb with a Weber. I am not mechanically inclined and I have tried watching YouTube videos and searching forum posts and I just cannot seem to figure anything out. I have several questions and I will posts some pictures to help visualize. Firstly, every video or picture I’ve seen of this conversion shows a small air filter on top of the valve cover where the PCV hose/vent used to be. Nothing of this is mentioned at all in the videos I’ve seen or the instructions that came with the kit. Do I have to buy it separately and what are my options here?
Second, what do I do with the charcoal canister? There’s no information about it in the instructions and I don’t see any videos detailing what to do with it or how. All I know is that the fuel system still needs to be “vented”.
Third, I’ve tried to fabricate a block plate for the EGR valve since it seems like the smart thing to do is delete it entirely, and the kit only comes with a block plate for the manifold where the EGR pipe bolts on. Having trouble bolting the plate on but I made it using a random piece of sheet metal from ace and an angle grinder, and we had to replace the bottom bolt with a shorter one that is threaded the entire way as the EGR valve sticks out from the block and needs a longer bolt than what we took out from it. I just want to know if I am going about this the best way without buying the actual plate kit online and waiting for it to ship. Just wanna get my truck running again and don’t want to pay a mechanic because I’m stubborn and I want to learn how to be self sufficient. Thanks in advance to whoever’s willing to help for your time.

Original bolt for EGR valve next to the replacement bolt for the block off plate (which doesn’t want to thread in)


Plate we made

 

First question: You do not need to buy a filter to for the top of the valve cover. I have the stock PCV Valve there and run the hose to the bottom plate of the air cleaner with the fitting that came with the kit. Second question: I deleted EVERYTHING regarding emissions including the Charcoal Canister. I also installed a vented gas cap. Third question: I did exactly what you did for the EGR Block Off Plate. The stud you are referring to can be removed and replaced with a bolt or just run a nut and lock washer down on it to secure the plate.

 

Thank you very much for the reply. Here again on the weekend hoping to get her running before the new year. A couple more questions; the photo I posted of the “charcoal canister” I’ve found out is actually an “air fuel resonator” , originally it was vented into the stock air filter housing, so on deciding what to do with it, would it be fine to simply rotate the whole thing downwards and vent it into the middle area of the engine bay? For the actual charcoal canister I believe I have 2, since the truck is 4x4. Since they’re not in my way, I don’t plan on doing anything with them at the moment, so I don’t need to worry about venting the tank right? Also regarding fuel pressure, the instructions say I need a fuel pressure regulator and a vacuum gauge before I try to run the truck. Should I/can I get them from autozone or do I have to get them meant specifically for this conversion? Thanks in advance.

 

I disconnected everything not related directly to the Weber. I removed the resonator, the charcoal canister, all lines, etc. Mine is a 4WD as well. Plug the vacuum lines that remain with the exception of the distributor. Plug the back vacuum port on the distributor and use the one closest to the radiator (front) for the vacuum line running to the base of the Weber. You MUST install a fuel pressure regulator and a gauge. Weber's only need 2 -2 1/2 lbs of fuel pressure. The stock pump will have too much pressure. I vented the tank by installing a "vented" gas cap. The only lines I have left are the steel fuel line running from the tank to the engine compartment, the fuel line from the regulator to the carb, the PCV hose to the air cleaner base plate and the vacuum line to the distributor. I have had two Webers, a 32/36 which I replaced with the 38. I have been running it for probably 12 years or better. It runs great. I did not use a vacuum gauge to install. I use the Holley 12-804 regulator and a Mr Gasket gauge but any will do as long as you can adjust the pressure down to 2 lbs or so. Mr Gasket make a regulator that uses no gauge but I chose to have the gauge. The most important thing is to follow the carburetor setup instructions exactly. It will make your life much easier.