I have a 94 Toyota Truck, title says it's a Sportage, but I don't think it is. It is not getting gas to the engine. I've replaced my fuel pump and filter. I'm at my wits end. Could it be the fuel injectors or something electrical? Any ideas on how to trouble shoot? Anything would be greatly appreciated. I called the dealership service department, but they were no help.

 

The only Sportage I've heard of is a Kia. So do this the easy way; run your VIN through an online decoder. Here's one: https://vpic.nhtsa.dot.gov/decoder/Decoder

Once we figure out if you really have a 1994 Toyota Pickup, we can go from there. (Don't forget to fill us in on the details: the year, model, manu, engine, body style. The usual.)

 

Oh God bless you! Thank you, Scope! I just got off work, it's after midnight. I'll do that as soon as I wake up..

 

Found it! This is all it says: 1994 Toyota Pickup 2WD 4 Cylinders R 2.4L MFI SOHC 144 CID

Here's the correct link for free VIN look up: https://www.autozone.com/vin-decoder

 

What are your symptoms? I mean the truck's symptoms? Is it cranking? Undo the air filter housing and spray some starting fluid in the intake and see if it starts with fluid in it. Also look at the fuses for engine and EFI.

Look at the thread for the factory service manual here and download it. It should have a trouble shooting guide.

I kind of collect old license plates and had a bunch in my garage to give one of my kids. For some reason I had a fresh unused set of 1992 plates for my 1988 4Runner that I bought new. I must have switched to custom plates about that time and didn't use these. The registration with it called it a "4DR SW." SW= station wagon. As we know 88 4Runners were not 4DR. Anyway, I now have the VIN of my long ago sold first 4Runner. I can't believe DMV could be wrong. Did the original salesman fill out the registration wrong?

 

I am a female with no mechanical ability. I have a man coming over tomorrow to read all my research, and I'll have all of your advice

The symptoms: The gas was not getting to the engine. I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump. It worked for 4 days, but ran rougher than I liked, so I didn't go very far. The 5th day, start it, it turns over, and dies, just like it did before the new fuel pump. The wiring harness looks really bad, as in a little burnt in places. Also the guy that replaced the fuel pump and filter said the exhaust pipe was messed up. It could be the fuel injectors too. I just don't know how to diagnose it. I live way out in the country, and it would cost more money than I have to get it to town, diagnose it, and fix it. Plus I don't trust the Toyota dealership, the only one I have, after my phone call yesterday. And I have to use Bubba's to diagnose it, and then I can get a mobile mechanic.

Do you know if my model has an ecm, electronic control module? That way I could check out the wiring.

If your truck came with a topper, maybe in 1992, the DMV classified it as a station wagon because it's such a little truck.

 

Yes. Under the passenger side kick panel. The plastic panel right above the floor, below the dash, jsut forward of the door.

Sounds like your troubles might well be wiring harness related. Especially the burnt areas. This is where a multimeter, even a Harbour Freight cheapie, would be very useful.

You didn't specify if you have a manual or automatic transmission, but if you have a manual, there's an easy way to check if the fuel pump is running. Simply don't push the clutch pedal down and turn the key to start. The truck won't crank, bbut you can hear the fuel pump running, if all is well. No sound of the fuel pump, chances are the wires going to it have a bad spot somewhere along their run. Often, the connection on top of the fuel pump hanger, the circular piece of metal that holds the pump down in the tank, gets corroded. Both positive AND negative. Again, with a multimeter, you check to see if there's the right voltage at the connection. If not, bad wiring. If so, bad connection, or wiring inside the tank feedin the pump.

If you have an automatic, you can still check the fuel pump, it's just a little more complex. You need to use the test jack attached to the fuse block in the engine compartment. I'll run you through it if you need.

Not super helpful, I fear. I'm sorry...
​​​​​​​Pat☺

 

2ToyGuy, first, THANK YOU FOR YOUR SERVICE! You HARDASS MEN are saving my life!

Manual transmission. God, help me. I believe I need a new wiring harness, but, that's OK, whatever it takes.

But no, no, no, I just replaced the fuel pump/filter. It's got to be electrical. Gotta be or fuel injectors.

I think you are right on this point: Often, the connection on top of the fuel pump hanger, the circular piece of metal that holds the pump down in the tank, gets corroded. Both positive AND negative.

I greatly appreciate, and you will never know how much all of your input is helping me. Keep it coming, please.

 

It was an honor and a privelidge!

That's not a sure thing. Best to verify it's operation when you can. When you say you replaced the filter, do you mean the one on the fuel pump, the sock? Or do mean the actual fuel filter? If I'm not mistaken, it's mounted on te passenger side of the engine, under the intake manifold. Fairly large, black, circular, tube, about 4" long, with a slightly larger rim on one end, and the fuel lines connected with banjo bolts. I'd bet yours is factory original, and may well be clogged up. It's kind of a PITA to get to, and is odd, because the fuel goes into the front, and out the back.
There is a small "hatch" in the passenger side wheel well that permits easier, not easy, but easier, access.
​​​​​​​The filter has what's called "crush washers" as a seal on the banjo bolts, and they MUST be replaced any time they're loosened off. There's another one on the Cold Start Injector, the pulsation damper, and so forth. Any time you even loosen the banjo bolts, the washers absolutely must be replaced. They are readily available at the dealership, and for a relatively decent price. Get plenty enough to do the job you starting on, and some extras. You will always need the extra ones. I promise.

Your best bet is to get a multimeter, and check voltage at the fuel hanger top connection, and check it's ground as well. Set up the conditions to make the fuel pump run, using the jumper in the test jack, then check the voltages at the various points that you can. If it's good at the test jack, check it at the fuel pump hanger. If it's bad there, you know you have a bad wire going back there. Start pulling it out of the loom it's in, and checking for breaks, burns, and so forth.

Good luck to you, and keep us up to date on what you find.
BTW: It would help us a lot to help you, if you put the info about your truck in your signature. See how the others here do it, not just me, but the real experts on this forum. That info is really helpful for us.

Anywho, looking forward to hearing your progress! I shut up now.
​​​​​​​Pat☺

 

Scope and 2ToyGuy, we're looking at it tomorrow. I have a man coming over to read every little piece of knowledge that both of you have given me. I thought it would be today, but we live at the lake, and no one wanted to leave the lake during the last days of summer on the beach with our dogs. I had to take the day off for lake fever and wait until Monday because no Bubba wanted to "F" with this bitch of my truck on a day perfect for the lake. And my truck's name is Richie Lee. How can you go wrong with that name? Both you guys have shared a wealth of information with me, and I know we can figure it out. I will surely keep you updated on what I find out tomorrow. God bless you both!

 

I need an engine and firewall wiring harness, both of them. Any ideas on where to find one, I have parts numbers but the Toyota dealer can't find them.
firewall and engine wiring harness part #s

f 82131 04481 and 82131 04501

e 82121 35112

 

Look on eBay for a used one. I didn't google those part numbers but if you google "Toyota" plus the part number sometimes you get results. On eBay just search "92 toyota harness" and hit "used" filter and read the descriptions.

 

It's much worse than that. The parts are not available. I'm looking at maybe, but not sure, two solutions. 1. have them custom made, or 2. replace it wire by wire. And I just thought of three, thank you. 3. Pull them and have them rebuilt.

 

You can try on online salvage yard search for used harness. A used one is better than none. Prices are very reasonable. Ebay will be used as well.There are many online. Try this Toyota dedicated one 1st.

https://yotayard.com