Several years ago I tried replacing one of the shafts because of a torn boot on an '89 pickup. I could not get it to clear something on the suspension so I gave up and had my local mechanic replace it. I'm now looking to replace one on my '92 which should be the same. It looks like it's supposed to be an easy job according to the FSM but that's not how it turned out all those years ago. I'm wondering if there is some trick to removing one. It's the driver's side just like the one on my '89.

 

One trick is to hammer out the bolt studs that are press fit. With that I am able to get it done with only a few curse words. THe CV axle shafts have a small amount of extension in the joint, so make sure it's pushed as short as it goes.

 

I remember I tried pushing the shaft as short as it would go but it still wouldn't clear everything. I didn't think you would have to hammer the studs out. I'm sure the mechanic didn't need to do that but I didn't ask how he did it back then.

 

An easy way to pull it our requires unbolting the top balljoint and letting the hub assembly pivot outwards on the lower balljoint. But it is possible without this, especially hammering the studs out.

 

I think I'd go the upper ball joint removal route. I don't trust myself with hammering studs out without ruining them. Then there's hammering them back in.

 

Actually, there sorta is.

I assume you're talking about the half-shafts in front. If you jack up the truck and leave the wheels dangling, the angle is wrong and you'll never get the half-shafts out. But if you lift the wheel in question (I put a trolley jack under the brake rotor and lift until the weight just starts to come off the jack stand) so that it is as though the truck were sitting on the wheel, the half-shafts come out easy-peasy.

You'll find folks on this forum who have engaged in all sorts of destruction, from removing the ball joints to pounding the alignment studs out of the differential flange. You don't need to do any of that stuff.

 

Yes, that right, the half shafts. I would have never thought it was something so simple. Thanks very much for the tip!
I wonder if I could just get by putting an new boot instead of buying a whole new shaft? It's not making any noise yet.

 

Price it out. The last time I checked, I could buy a rebuilt half-shaft for less money than two boot kits (you need two because the one that needs replacing is the outer, but they both come off the inboard end.) You need the special tool to put the bands on the boots. There are two common types of bands; which ever tool you already own, the kits you get will need the other one. Last, cleaning the grease out of the old boots is a messy, thankless job (but you never shied away messy/thankless before).

 

So far I haven't found any OEM boot kits. I used an aftermarket kit the last time because at the time I wasn't a stickler for OEM parts. Back then most of it wasn't from China or India.
OEM shafts are expensive and it confusing what they're exactly selling you.
I found an interesting boot kit on Rock Auto but still requires removing the axle.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...t=2284&jsn=887

 

Well, a 2-halves quick-boot kit is the last thing I would ever consider. If you're willing to find out how to remove the half-shaft, you're willing to do the repair correctly.

FWIW, after-market complete half-shaft $114: https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/...12n/402513_0_0
Dorman CV Boots, $50 for the set: https://www.autozone.com/drivetrain/cv-boot-kit
Autozone might have the correct tool as a loaner; be sure to check that it is the correct tool before leaving the store.

Your choice.

 

I have an AZ nearby and they have them in stock. I don't have a lot of extra cash laying around anymore so it's a hard decision. I also need a speedometer cable and that's going to set me back at least $120. I also need new tail lamps since the the previous owner swapped in some aftermarket ones and they're getting crappy.
I think I can easily take one of these shafts apart to put the boot on. I think I can deal with the grease and mess it will make.

 

I have engaged in the removal of the studs, it was actually to make it easier to put back in, not remove. Removal of the top balljoint isn't destructive , but it is more work. I do infact cycle the suspension to help get it out, I didn't think to mention that.

I've learned almost all of this on here, good or bad lol.

One of the toyota dealers in LA area (Culver city) offers OEM rebuilt shafts, But the boots wore out too quickly still, I was not happy. Price was decent though. They honored warranty on the worse shaft and replaced it. Also, Duralast has a part number for the shaft that is specifically rebuilt OEM core. Also didn't have a great experience with the boots.

 

I wonder if it's a coincidence that I've had two torn outside boots on the driver's on two different trucks. The one on my '89 was torn before it hit a 100K miles. My '91 has 143K now but it looks like it's been torn for a while.

 

I finally got around to removing the axle to change the boots. It was a really difficult job despite what others have suggested. Yes the best way was to raise the suspension simulating the way it would be with the wheel on the ground. You still have to raise and lower the control arm while pulling it out. Also you need to punch out two studs one next to the other from the differential flange. Even then you need to pry the axle out. Also the sway bar link needs to be removed. The axle itself was easy to take apart and the bands supplied with the OEM kit didn't need any special tool to install. It's just a super messy job because of all the old grease that needs be cleaned up. That was the easiest part of the job. Putting the axle back was a little easier than removing it since I had everything out of the way. It took me about 5 hours to do it all, including taking the axle apart, cleaning, regreasing and installing new boots.