Hello Everyone,

Novice here with a few questions for some yota experts... I got a couple issues I was looking for some advice on.

1. The transmission seems to be slipping in my 88' yota. I've had a few heavy loads in er the over the past few years but don't really beat on it. I'd fire it up and drop it into drive and it wouldn't engage... then it would, then it would slip out of gear... then it would engage again and drive normally. Did that a 1/2 doz times and it's been in the storage unit ever since. What would be the most logical/obvious steps to efficiently diagnosis this issue? The fluid seems fine... but what's next?
2. A few other issues that have been more long term.
   1. The key/ignition/lock cylinder... idk the proper terminology has always been really loose, like really any key will start it and you can easily remove the key while driving. Easiest/most cost effective fix?
   2. She's starting to get a lil "TICK" from the timing chain. I paid 3600.00 for it originally with 100k on it, no rust, it's now at 150K and I'm really considering getting the work done but that's a 3,000 bill. Its perfect for my summer work and I would invest the money if I can get another 150K outa her. Is that realistic to think? Or should I just say screw it and keep driving it? Any thoughts?
   3. Sometimes the gas sticks and I pretty much gotta throw it into neutral to not die... when I do, the rps skyrocket and it seems I have to start pressing the gas peddle to finally get the rps to eventually come back down. Is this just a sticky cable somewheres or a fuel injector issue or something? Any recommendations/thoughts?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks in advance to anyone willing to give me a few suggestions.

Shane

 

Well, I know less than nothing about automatic trannies, so question 1 is out of my baliwick entirely.

Question 2. 1. :Replace the lock cylinder if you're really worried about it. A good locksmith should be able to set the pins and tumblers to match you current keying. Otherwise, you've got an ignition key and everything else keys. Your choice. OR, just live with it. My two 87's have been that way for the last 25 years plus. Doesn't bother me at all.
2.2. : Toyotas do that. They tick. Especially the good old 22R series engine. You can get the timing chain and it's guide and tensioner replaced, YOU can replace them, or just leave it alone and let it tick. As long as the guide and tensioner are still in 1 piece, and the chain is the proper tension, what's to worry about? You can see the guide and tensioner with the valve cover off. An extension mirror, one of the little round dental types, and a nice bright flashlight, and you can see them easily.
2.3. : Sticky cable or throttle body. A little shot of WD-40 onto the throttle body where the cable comes in can work wonders. Cable is cheap and easy to replace, or you can try to lubricate it yourself. There's a really good thread on How-To make a cable lube set up yourself cheaply (a couple dollars), and easily, with stuff readily available nearly anywhere. I use some Liquid Graphite. Essentially, graphite like for locks, suspended in a volatile liquid that evaporates quickly. Squirt it down the cable, move it around for a few seconds to evaporate the liquid, and it's lubed.

Is that any help?
Pat☺

 

Hey Pat,

Yes it is... thanks a bunch! Really appreciate your insights/expertise!

Shane

 

re the "$3,000 bill". If that's for a timing chain job...WoW! too much. A lil' tick? When? Always? Cold start? Hot start? Its not a difficult job, so a shade tree mechanic like me can do it easily. Take a look at a few of these on youtube "toyota 22re timing chain replacement" If its a tick only at startup, that's because there is slack in the chain until engine builds oil pressure to work the tensioner. The stock chain guides are plastic, and time and cycles eventually cause the driver side to fail. Mine were making quite racket when I got it with 144,000 miles, I joined up this site and found out about the known issue. Finally, at 155,000 I figured I better act.. Sure enough, the driver side guides were in pieces down below in the pan, probably. The chain had milled a couple of deep grooves in the timing cover. I did the job myself at home one weekend. A real mechanic could probably do it in 3-4 hours. Yours sounds like something I wouldn't worry about yet. Your '88 would be somebody's steal if you'd sell it. Mines running perfect at 198,000 miles. Maybe the engine just liked all those aluminum particles the chain machined off the inside of the timing cover and the oil carried away. Maybe the oil filter did just did its job...

 

Thanks JJ'89... I appreciate the thoughts/feedback on the timing chain!

It certainly has a tick when it's initially fired up and it does maintain a less obvious one after it's warmed up. The chain has obviously loosened a bit over time because it has became more noticeable but I don't think its making contact with the cover/case yet. I'm not hearing metal on metal yet... which is kinda why I was thinking about addressing the issue and preventing damage.

I have reviewed some videos of people replace them. Personally, I'm not sure I could tackle that job successfully, as much as I'd like to try. At this point, I'd rather pony up a lil cash and have someone experienced give er a lil attention... rather than turn it into a disassembled experiment that I can't use or sell. I haven't been able to find a lot of mechanics up here in MN comfortable working on older toyotas... most of the old yotas in MN have deteriorated to piles of Fe2O3. I'll snoop around on this forum and see if anyone knows anyone who would be willing to take a peak at it in the upper mid-west.

I initially purchased the truck because of the good things I read about the motors in the older toyotas... I've heard they can go over 500K if maintained, that's crazy!?! Maybe I should try to start working on it more my self... just not a lot of mechanic experience.

Thanks again!

Shane

 

Only one way to get mechanicing experience. Grab a wrench, and start turning it.

I'm a Radar Tech by training and carer experience, but I learned a ton from the mechanics at my last job. They would tell me what to look for/at, and what needed replacing and then sit there and watch the lead electronics tech (me) turn wrenches, screwdrivers, you name it. Provided some real entertainment for them, but heck, I learned a lot, and quickly.

The FSM, available on line in PDF format if you look, has pretty good instructions on how to do most stuff on these trucks. Comprehensive, as a general rule. Very helpful.

It seems like a large percentage of the cost of vehicle repairs is the labor. Do it yourself, and you'll save a lot.
Now, get to work!
Pat☺