current truck with a 3vze with 267k on it burns more oil than saddam hussein in kuwait. going to check out a used engine pulled from a wrecked 4runner with 180k miles -- also a 3vze. Seller says it has good compression, head gaskets and timing belt are good, and that it did not burn oil. the claim is that everything works as it should, and at a certain point i just have to decide that i trust this person enough to buy the engine. i'm not experienced evaluating engines (and i'm not the one who'll be putting it in), so i'm wondering if there's anything i need to be sure to look at when i go to check it out. is there any way to see about the head gasket and timing chain? maybe i can get into the oil pan to see if there's metal shavings but that's the only idea i have as far as assessing it before having it swapped.

 

180k isn’t a spring chicken either. I would start by pulling the spark plugs and seeing if any are oil fouled. If it’s burning oil the plugs will show it.

 

First thing I'd look for is a warranty...

 

At that rate do a 5VZE swap, easier to find with lower mileage and not any more complicated than a 3VZE swap if already equipped.

 

Spark plugs tell a lot.
you can’t do a compression test, but it is feasible to do a leak down, which actually is more informative. You just need the tool and a compressor. It would give you an idea on the rings, valves, and head gasket.
id put a new timing belt on unless the existing one is pretty new.

it sounds like this is from a private party. Wrecking yards tend to view their engines as rebuildable engines. They may give a very limited warranty in case of internal damage, but they don’t pretend their product is like new.

 

Don't you need to trade out transmissions as well to swap the 3 for the 5?

 

This plan does make me a little nervous. If the budget allows, a rebuild of the engine that is in there now or a replacement long block has a lot lower risk. The 3.4 liter swap has been done lots of times, but does add a layer of complexity to the job.

 

Unfortunately there is definitely a budget. If I could I would love to put a 3.4 in but I just don't have the money for that or a rebuild.

 

I understand why used engines are an option, but as a former Toyota Service Director I hated them. They invariably had issues that left the customer disappointed, and no matter how much you warned them about the risks of used, they ultimately vent their disappointment on the repair facility. And used engines never come with any labor warranty(usually just a 30 day exchange on the component itself) so if there was a failure the customer either has to pay labor 2X, or the shop eats it out of goodwill. At one point we would only install used components if the customer supplied them; we wouldn't source them out. But that was a short gap fix. Eventually we just got away from dealing with used components all together. Made life vastly easier for everyone. I saw a lot of the independent repair shops around us starting to adopt similar protocols.


If I was having a shop install a used engine I'd ask for a leak down test while it was on the stand. If the numbers are good(typically all cylinders fairly close and under 20%) I'd ask them to pull the valve covers and check the valve adjustment. This is a lot easier to do on the stand then after it's installed. Look the engine over for any signs of leaks, neglect, or pending issues. Probably consider waterpump, seals, t-belt, etc, too. New Denso or NGK sparkplugs are a given after the leak down test. Again, all this is so much easier on a stand.

The knock sensor is a tough call. They're pricey, but if that engine has been out for a few days there's a good chance it'll set codes. Something to ponder.

 

180k is well with in the range of when these things like to pop head gaskets.
it must be pretty dang cheap, able to see it run so you can do a compression check?
since you trust the person is said person willing to offer any sort of guarantee if the engine turns out to be a boat anchor?

 

After some thinking about it, how far does the truck need to be driven to burn a quart of oil, and what weight oil are you using?

 

it's eating a quart about every 200 miles. it also fouled up spark plugs after 3000 miles of driving at the most. it's pretty bad. i'm using 5 weight, i know heavier weights supposedly burn slower but I was using 10 for a while and didn't notice the difference.

i asked the guy with the engine to pull the plugs, he only pulled the drivers side but they looked fouled to me. i'm no expert, but there's clearly oil on those, right?

 

Quart in 200 is a lot. I would go to 20w50 for a start and consider a bottle of STP or similar product on top of that. The goal here is to buy some time to save up for the engine rebuild. The heavy oil will help consumption noticeably.

 

Add a qt of Rislone to the oil next time it’s down a qt. It might free up the oil rings on the pistons if they’re gummed up and stuck.
A qt every 200 miles is a lot. I've seen Rislone to amazing things, and seen it do nothing. Just depends on the internal issue. Be prepared for some incredibly black oil once you drain it out. Sometimes a second application is beneficial.

 

I did as you said, completely changed out the oil for 20w50, but it made no difference for the oil consumption problem. Does this possibly indicate that blow by isn't the issue and that there's something else going on that's responsible for how much it's eating? There are no significant oil leaks. I have also tried the STP/rislone route but didn't notice any effect.

 

If there are no external leaks then the next step would be a leak down test. That would show any weakness at rings, intake/exhaust valves, or head gasket. That much oil consumption the rings would be the likely culprit, but having info from a leak down test will make the tear down inspection a lot easier.

 

Wow. I would have to agree. I really thought that would help. Jimkola recommended a leak down test. That’s a good next step. Maybe the valve guides are shot and it’s coming in there.