I have a 93 22re that I have swapped with a fresher less miles engine. I have done a egr delete aswell. It does crank and start runs for a few seconds and shuts off on its own. It is giving a code 12. Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.

 

Googled Code 12? That's a good start.

 

What year was the new engine was it stripped of the engine harness and sensors down to the naked engine?? Meaning injectors and distributor as well?

Then all your parts from the original Engine installed

Your ECU is not seeing the rpm signal telling the ecu the engine is running a open circuit or miss matched wires so shuts the engine off.

 

"runs a few seconds and quits" is the classic sign of a VAF-COR issue. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-quits-312747/ While that isn't the only cause, I would start there.

 

Same yr engine, yes stripped of the engine harness and sensors, aswell as injectors and distributor. Parts from original running engine installed. Checked all my connectors, checked timing. Everything seems to be right. I even swapped distributors. Runs for few seconds and shuts down even if I’m giving it gas.

 

same year engine and yes all parts from original running engine installed

 

Perhaps you pinched or broke a wire when installing the wiring harness.

plastic connector not quite latched enough to cause a open circuit

Wires tend to get brittle with thermal cycling over the years.

Problem is one of those things that just happened now nothing to do with anything you did.

Good Luck.

 

This isn't the way to fix it, but if the fuel pump isn't running, you can jump FP (fuel pump) and B+ (battery power with key on if I remember right) in the diag port on the engine to force the pump to run. If it stays running, then there's an issue with the things that tell the fuel pump to run. I don't work on this gen truck too often, so it's mainly based on the older pickups.

I pulled up the wire diagram, fuel pump is switched on the power side by the circuit opening relay (fuel pump relay basically), and the relay is activated by the starter relay at crank and as soon as the engine runs, the air flow meter closes the circuit to keep the pump on while the engine runs. Here's the test procedure for the air flow meter, the main test we are interested in is the pins 1 to 2 test.



Here's a photo of the connector/pin out, on the actual air flow meter the pin out will be backwards (right to left).