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Anyone happen to know what the torque would be on each end of the fuel filter (there are 2 Copper washers at each end). Was a total pain to get the old one off (gashing my hands In a few places) so just want to do everything I can to make sure I get it back together as beat as possible. I have heard some say they had leaks after so no if if I can torque to proper specs I will be happy. I have been looking for this torque specs but cannot seem to find.
Picture of old filter (possible 450,000 km).
Last edited by jay4runner; Jul 10, 2021 at 02:45 PM.
22 Ft Lb. Good luck getting at it especially with a torque wrench.
I just finished rebuilding my motor and I put the fuel filter and fuel line to the injector rail on yesterday(properly torqued) Not sure if I'll be able to torque the feed line on the inlet side of the filter when I drop the motor in though.
Maybe I can if I hook it up before the motor is all the way in and bolted up?
I did manage to theoretically get the 22ft lbs. I tightened the rear facing connection (out) before I fastened back to the block. Was able to turn the filter towards me a bit. Put torque wrench with 17 mm on banjo bolt and held hex nut just behind banjo with 19mm open. Then I managed to tack filter back onto block after which is used a number of extensions on torque wrench to get at the forward banjo bolt (in) and get to 22 ft lbs. Haven't tested yet but hopefully no leaking.
I do have another question though - if anyone happens to know. When I was originally feeling around from the top for that too mounting little bolt I accidently loosened another 12mm bolt that was right beside it. It couldn't see it but it actually felt a bit like a nipple bolt of some kind. Anyways q little clear fluid came out before I shut it down. What would this have been?
Last edited by jay4runner; Jul 10, 2021 at 08:10 PM.
I did manage to theoretically get the 22ft lbs. I tightened the rear facing connection (out) before I fastened back to the block. Was able to turn the filter towards me a bit. Put torque wrench with 17 mm on banjo bolt and held hex nut just behind banjo with 19mm open. Then I managed to tack filter back onto block after which is used a number of extensions on torque wrench to get at the forward banjo bolt (in) and get to 22 ft lbs. Haven't tested yet but hopefully no leaking.
I do have another question though - if anyone happens to know. When I was originally feeling around from the top for that too mounting little bolt I accidently loosened another 12mm bolt that was right beside it. It couldn't see it but it actually felt a bit like a nipple bolt of some kind. Anyways q little clear fluid came out before I shut it down. What would this have been?
The only bolt very near the top fuel filter bolt would be an intake mounting bolt, not sure why water would've come out of that though. My entire intake is off right now so I have a pretty good view of that side of the block.
I wasn't able to get mine to seal at 22 ft/lb. Used like four sets of brand new crush washers trying before I said screw it and just overtightened. I also bolted the filter to the inner fender temporarily until I get the truck running but honestly might just leave it there.
If it's a banjo bolt, torqueing is just a matter of getting the wrench in there. To use a conventional torque wrench on an inline fitting (like on the 3VZE), you can use "crows-foot" wrench. In fact, HF sells crows-foot flare nut wrenches! https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-...-pc-68999.html Remember that the additional "reach" of the crows-foot changes the geometry of the torque wrench. There are formulas to figure out the correction, but if you mount the crows-foot at a right angle to the torque wrench, the distance from the center of the fastener to your hand is pretty much the same, and the wrench sets correctly.
The Toyota OEM "crush washers" are aluminum, not copper. Copper is much harder than aluminum, so it's used a crush washer on applications like brakes. I'd get the Toyota washers.
The Toyota OEM "crush washers" are aluminum, not copper. Copper is much harder than aluminum, so it's used a crush washer on applications like brakes. I'd get the Toyota washers.
The OEM crush washers supplied with Genuine Toyota 22re fuel filters are, indeed copper.
22 ft lb is right out of the Toyota factory manual and the crush washers that came with my Toyota fuel filter are copper. I'd be careful over torqueing remember that banjo bolt is hollow and also has a cross hole drilled through it.
Last edited by br549arkie; Jul 11, 2021 at 04:45 AM.
Jul 10, 2021 | 02:11 PM
