I have a 1987 first edition non turbo. Replaced the battery and the electric starter. It won't stay charged.

After the electric starter was replaced it ran fine for a bit.

Then it sat since cv-19.

Got a jump drove around.. Won't stay running.


Help

😊😊

 

Welcome to YotaTech. [Try to avoid double-posting.]

You're going to need a few tools. First, charge your battery. https://www.harborfreight.com/26a-61...ger-56744.html Measure the voltage at the battery https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-63759.html (should be around 12.6v full charged, temperature dependent). With the truck running, take the same measurement. Should be around 14.1v, but may be a little less if your battery is full charged. Turn on the headlights; the voltage should get close to 14.1. If the voltage at the battery is the same running/not running, your alternator is not working.

As to "stay running," there are approximately a jillion possible causes. Start by giving us a clear description. Will it idle? How long? What are you doing when it dies? Can you restart it then?

 

After jump starting last year I drove it for about four miles just to get it going a bit.
I went to grab something to drink as I was out and as I pulled in to park it started to die I gassed it... Tobtry to keep it going... Jerk jerk died
I got a jump to get home
AAA came out and the voltage was fine they said.

Bf said he thinks ours electrical because there's an alarm on it but it is quite because the horn doesn't work to know. He thinks it's draining the battery. I've had the truck since 17 and never had this problem before.
I was thinking fuel?

 

I'm an electronics tech by profession. In a case like yours, I wouldn't trust AAA as far as I could throw your truck.
Do you know if you're getting any "Check Engine" light come on when it dies?
I would, as Scope103said, get a multimeter (man, that is an awesome price, BTW), and check the voltages yourself. Let us know what readings you get.

If I understand correctly. you got a jump to start it, drove 4 miles, and the truck died as you gave it a little gas to pull in to park?
Then, you got a jump to start it, and it ran the 4 miles to get back home, yes?

Sounds like, with the limited info we have so far, that you may have two problems here. And I may well be totally wrong.
If the alternator isn't charging the battery (you needed a jump to start it. Twice, right?), it's possible your alternator is bad, or the large, heavily insulated, wire from the alternator to the fuse box in the engine compartment burnt open. It's called a "fusible link", and burn open is what it's designed to do. It similar to a fuse that way. Too much current through it, it is supposed to burn through the wire, but not the insulation. That's why it has the thick, heavy, insulation. That's why you either need to check the voltage at both ends of it, battery AND alternator. You can also ohm it out, but if you do, make certain the truck is NOT running, and the battery leads, both of them, are pulled off. It only takes a very small voltage across the leads in "ohm" mode to destroy that part of the meter.
The voltage tests will tell the tale. Just do ONE more voltage test than Scope said to.
IF the voltage at the battery is around 12.6 with the truck running, measure the voltage at the large wire bolted to the side, sort of, of the alternator. It's under a rubber boot to protect it. DON'T touch the wire with your fingers with the truck running. It WILL bite you, and it WILL hurt like heck. Just use the meter lead, and slip the tip under the rubber boot. DON'T touch any metal other than the contact with the meter lead!! If the voltage is 14 VDC or higher, the wire to the fuse box is bad. If it's below that, the alternator is bad.

I take that back. One more possible problem: The battery might might have a bad cell. It would keep the battery from taking a charge from the alternator, or a charger, as it should, and the battery will discharge after getting a charge and/or jump. Sound familiar? The best way to test it is to take a shop, or auto parts store, and have them do a load test on it. You need a special tester to do that. An expensive one. Just let the people that have bought one already do it.

That's all for the electrics so far.
With the "chug-chug-die" occurrence at the store, it's possible that the fuel has been contaminated. It might have gotten rust from the inside of the fuel tank in it after sitting like that. Especially if it wasn't ful as full can be. Air has moisture in it, and if it is partly, or worse, mostly, empty of fuel, the air that's been drawn in will cool down at night. The moisture in the air will condense out onto the tank area exposed to it, since it will cool faster than the air will. Just like a glass of ice water gets condensation on it. When you're driving your truck regularly, the water can't condense, as the fuel tank is refilled, drained, refilled, etc. It just sits, the moisture can stay on the exposed metal parts of the tank, and cause it to rust. The rust can flake off, in all different sizes, and fall into the fuel. Very small particles of rust, drawn into the system, may be clogging the fuel filter, turning loose, and flowing back into the fuel tank when the truck dies, then clogging it up again when the truck is restarted. Or the injectors may be getting clogged, although if that happens, it's usually a permanent death for the truck, until they're replaced or repaired. Enough fuel might get by the filter to let you go a short way as you did, then it dies again when a demand is placed on it, however.

Does any of that help?
Pat☺

 

This all makes perfect sense.

I'm taking it in tmr.
I just talked to an account of mine a place that deals with older Toyotas Marlin Crawler here. Super cool guys.
They said bring it in... I have a feeling it might even be a combo of the alternator and fuel tbh. Because, it had been sitting since the cv-19 shut down.
Wasn't going anywhere.
Sitting like that can destroy the tank... Of course I'm just guessing... But happened to my 67 mustang a LONG time ago.

I really appreciate your help!!

We'll see what happens next / tomorrow.... 🤷🏼‍♀️

Rebecca

 

Lucky you! You're truck is in the best of hands!

Anyhow, Here's how charging system works for most 22RE. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-22re-304868/
If you find any difference in readings from described, you're close to solving your problem.

 

Yes, best of hands for your truck!

Nice Mustang, BTW! My sister got a 65 convertible for her 16th birthday, back in 79. She was about a spoiled little brat
I got told that if I wanted a car, I had to go get a job. So, I joined the Marines. I guess I showed them. I DID get a car, though

Have fun!
Pat☺

 

😂 😂
Way to show them but now you hace awesome benefits
Thank you for your service 🇺🇸!

Btw
So it was the after market alarm that was draining the battery! Since the horn stopped working... Errgg ( no more road rage 😂 &#128514 couldn't hear the alarm... 🤷🏼‍♀️ I didn't put that in. It was there when I bought it.
Got a new battery, yanked the alarm, upgraded spark plugs, charging system is a ok.
They did tell me eventually I'll need to replace O rings...
Any advice on that job?

Rebecca 😉

 

WHICH o-rings? There's a few, here and there. The one I think of right off is the o-ring on the Idle Adjust Screw.
Others are the halfmoons under the valve cover, and the grommets for the valve cover's acorn nuts. Not to mention the valve cover gasket itself.
Also, the grommet for the PCV. It gets brittle pretty quickly, and can break apart when you go to replace the PCV valve. You don't want chunks of it falling down into the head.

There's also the crush washers all through the fuel system. They should never be re used. If you unscrew whatever they're under, they must, MUST be replaced. They are pretty inexpensive, and readily available from the dealer.

A little more detail would be a huge help for us.
Pat☺

 

"O" rings are thin rubber donuts. They're all over your truck. They're usually pretty easy to replace (if you get can close enough to see that they need to be replaced), so it's not the sort of thing you do "eventually."

Did they tell which o-rings? Could they have said "piston rings" instead?

 

They have to remove the exhaust manifold to do the job... 🤷🏼‍♀️ Hummmmmmmmm

 

Could be the "exhaust pipe to manifold gasket" https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/sho...rimLevel=18290 Yeah, worth fixing. When that gasket leaks, it not only increases pollution (exhaust is leaking before the catalytic converter), but also the risk of CO poisoning.

 

Thank you 😊 😊 😊

Rebecca