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I just picked up a 1987 Toyota Pickup 4x4 w/ a 22r (110k miles). Truck needs a few things here and there but one thing I noticed was that there was a strong gas smell in the cab when driving. Took it to my Toyota mechanic and they diagnosed a bad Carburetor. Apparently the truck had sat for years and the owner before me decided to turn in on and run it with the same gas that was in the tank. Mechanic says the old rusty fuel killed my fuel sender unit and ate up the entire carb, from the inside out, beyond repair (Havent yet seen the carb so not entirely sure if its trash or can be rebuilt).
Unfortunately for me, I live in California and so I have to get a smog every 2 years. Any idea what options I have as far as carburetors go? Weber only had CA legal carbs for the early 80s models and from what I've read online, CA trucks come with a CA model carbs needed to pass emissions?
Am I just ˟˟˟˟ out of luck and need to find a donor truck w/ of the same year/model? will a 2wd model or perhaps a different year work?
The only thing I have going for me is that my local smog shop doesn't care about a visual inspection and just cares that the tail pipe exhaust test passes.
Yea, im surprised he thinks its a goner. Hoping I can rebuilt it but for now I've been looking for part outs and rebuilds. Not entirely sure which year/models are compatible if I find a donor
Yeah, I think I'd go grab that carb and pull the horn off and see what you actually got. I'd be surprised if a can of carb dip didn't clean it up. a new needle and seat, along with a new float correctly set should fix a lot. I'd leave all the brass jets alone and just run wires down them to make sure they're clear.
Carbs intimidated a lot of techs bitd, and that's when they were common. Now days they're pretty much dead technology and current techs probably are mystified by them even more.
If you can figure out how to identify a Cali carb vs a non- Cali carb, I might have a parts carb in a box, I can check and see if its a Cali model. I don't know how to tell the difference. It definitely would need a rebuild and is missing parts but might help you Frankenstein something together.
Before going that route though, pull apart pictures of what you have and post them on here. There's lots of info on how to rebuild the Toy carb online, and a lot of people know how to work on them.
If you can figure out how to identify a Cali carb vs a non- Cali carb, I might have a parts carb in a box, I can check and see if its a Cali model. I don't know how to tell the difference. It definitely would need a rebuild and is missing parts but might help you Frankenstein something together.
Before going that route though, pull apart pictures of what you have and post them on here. There's lots of info on how to rebuild the Toy carb online, and a lot of people know how to work on them.
I'll work on getting pictures and we can compare. I found one online thats supposed to be the "CA emissions" version so i'll compare mine with that and maybe use yours as a third point of reference. As of now Im not even sure if it has a circle or square connector so I'll get on it.
Thanks for offering, I'll be in touch!
Yeah, I think I'd go grab that carb and pull the horn off and see what you actually got. I'd be surprised if a can of carb dip didn't clean it up. a new needle and seat, along with a new float correctly set should fix a lot. I'd leave all the brass jets alone and just run wires down them to make sure they're clear.
Carbs intimidated a lot of techs bitd, and that's when they were common. Now days they're pretty much dead technology and current techs probably are mystified by them even more.
Thankfully I found a pretty responsive and well reviewed carb shop and I'll be letting them decide if its done for.
Having dealt with a few 80's vehicles with troubled carbs, I *HIGHLY" recommend cleaning them with an ultrasonic path. You want something that really gets in those small passages. The can of carb solvent will work, but not nearly as nicely as the ultrasonic bath. Ask your shop what they plan to use.
Side note, I was just at the local smog shop today, and the guy told me the 22R engines with carbs can sometimes be a challenge to keep in line with emissions. I'm EFI, so no experience here.
Even if your old carb is that eaten up and wouldn't be accepted as a "core", you're only looking at $275 + shipping for a freshly pro rebuilt & tuned carb with Cali spec. I've dealt with National before and they do excellent work.
BTW about the connector. From what I can see '87 was the last year for the round connector. If you look at the '88 carb it has the "square" connector.
Side note, I was just at the local smog shop today, and the guy told me the 22R engines with carbs can sometimes be a challenge to keep in line with emissions. I'm EFI, so no experience here.
Blueman brings up a good point. The 22Rs and 22 REs sometimes don't do great at idle during a smog test if the rpms were at the low end of the allowed range. They ran cleaner if the rpms were raised towards the higher end of the allowed limit. If the station does a manual test first where the numbers are displayed in real time you see the sudden drop in HCs as the rpms climb. I had to do something very similar with the 1987 Samurai we owned. the 2,500 rpm test wasn't a issue.
I love my ultrasonic cleaner. I finally got a bigger one that has a heater, too.
I used a mob out of Southern California to purchase a rebuilt carb. for my current 22R. I am very pleased with the product. Aisin (Toyota 22R) carb arrived looking brand new, they even "tune" it according to your rig's specs. before it leaves the shop. This makes the first start up a bit easier. There is a core fee of about 125 dollars that you get back once the "old" carb is sent to them.
Carburetor Exchange- one shop in El Monte and another one in Riverside.
I used a mob out of Southern California to purchase a rebuilt carb. for my current 22R. I am very pleased with the product. Aisin (Toyota 22R) carb arrived looking brand new, they even "tune" it according to your rig's specs. before it leaves the shop. This makes the first start up a bit easier. There is a core fee of about 125 dollars that you get back once the "old" carb is sent to them.
Carburetor Exchange- one shop in El Monte and another one in Riverside.
Cheers
Oh no way, thats the place I've been talking too. Glad to hear you've had a good experience there.
Even if your old carb is that eaten up and wouldn't be accepted as a "core", you're only looking at $275 + shipping for a freshly pro rebuilt & tuned carb with Cali spec. I've dealt with National before and they do excellent work.
BTW about the connector. From what I can see '87 was the last year for the round connector. If you look at the '88 carb it has the "square" connector.
You're right. I triple checked, I definitely have the bright green circle connector.
Thanks for the link. I looked everywhere online for rebuilt carbs and didnt see that site. Its a bit cheaper than my local option, so its nice to have a backup.
Hopefully I dont run into much trouble tuning the new carb. Maybe down the line I can do an EFI conversion. I hear the '84-'89 trucks engines are pretty easy to do if you can find the donor parts.
Hopefully I dont run into much trouble tuning the new carb.
The folks at the Exchange were a bit pricey, but if you don't have some experience with carbs. it's a nice way to go, and it'll save you a significant amount of time when tuning the engine after start up.
They asked for a photo of the ID tag on the carb., but that's about it. So it seemed the internal condition was not an issue.
Cheers
The tank was ok? I'd think the sending unit was taken out by rust from the air in the tank more than anything else.
I never saw the tank. Mechanic told me the sending unit was completely eaten up (probably due do the old gas in there or maybe water made it inside) and they cleaned out it without any issues to the tank. Im sure the sending unit could have given out with the air but that wouldn't explain the carb being worn out from the inside with only 110k miles. Hopefully nothing else gave out
The folks at the Exchange were a bit pricey, but if you don't have some experience with carbs. it's a nice way to go, and it'll save you a significant amount of time when tuning the engine after start up.
They asked for a photo of the ID tag on the carb., but that's about it. So it seemed the internal condition was not an issue.
Cheers
Thanks, I dont mind paying for good work and a good source of information this one time but we ended up going with a different rebuilt carb. Hopefully I dont have to circle back for a 2nd carb
May 24, 2021 | 04:18 PM
