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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Engine code 13 , 22 ; 94’ 2WD 22RE Toyota Pickup

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Old May 23, 2021 | 08:07 PM
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Engine code 13 , 22 ; 94’ 2WD 22RE Toyota Pickup

So recently i was given my grandfathers truck he passed around 5 years ago and no one wanted his truck. For a while it sat outside my grandmothers house but she got tired of seeing the old thing sitting there all the time so my uncle took the truck, said he would need it eventually. Fast forward 3 or more years, he hardly used it and he essentially neglected maintenance and left it out in the parking lot of his apartment complex and sooner or later the complex manager said they want the truck out because it’s ugly and it makes the apartments look bad so there I was with open arms to take the truck and originally it ran fine but it started to unfold with some issues.

my first issue came after a couple months of driving it. The truck would stop shifting into gear while the truck was running so I wasn’t able to drive it but I would still go out everyday and start it. Then after a couple weeks I went out to start it like I always did and it starts up then probably after 3 minutes after it warms up and the rpms would drop and it would stutter to run and then it shuts off after probably 30 seconds after it warmed up so I go to check the codes with a paper clip and I got codes 13 and 22. Immediately I went on here and I dug through some old forums about these codes and it came clear that code 22 was a faulty ecu temperate sending unit atleast that’s what I understood from it. And code 13 was an ignition problem from the dizzy to the igniter. I would like to here some more input about these codes because it doesn’t hurt to listen to how others fixed these codes. I’ve ordered a new ecu temperate sending unit and the dash temperature sending unit since mine is out. I’ve also ordered some new spark plugs, plug wires, dizzy cap and the rotor all from 22re performance since I wanted all oem. Hopefully that solves my problems with the engine codes and the stalling/ sputtering. As for the truck not going into gear I’ve ordered a new slave cylinder since I saw a lack of movement of the fork and I’ve ordered a new clutch, pressure plate and flywheel from lce performance. I wanted to know if anyone has any suggestions or comments about what else I could do. I’m all ears!
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Old May 24, 2021 | 06:01 AM
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A near-new (just 27 years) pickup for free? You are the favorite grandson!

The most likely reason you can't shift into gear is the clutch not releasing (you already figured that out). What you also need to check for is cracks in the clutch pedal bracket. There's a whole (long) post on that: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...fatigue-32667/

Remember that your codes point to a circuit, not just the component. A broken wire will do it. Inspect the wiring carefully, and you might need to do the "wiggle test" when it's running. If bad enough, you might need to "tone out" (check for continuity) the wires with a multimeter.

Lots of things can go bad on a distributor, but they're way to expensive to replace on a guess. Here's the FSM to check the ignition system: http://web.archive.org/web/201212070.../4onvehicl.pdf In addition; gently push the rotor back and forth. You should feel very little lateral movement. If the bearing in the distributor is shot you'll get all sorts of odd ignition failures.

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Old May 30, 2021 | 12:41 AM
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Originally Posted by scope103
A near-new (just 27 years) pickup for free? You are the favorite grandson!

The most likely reason you can't shift into gear is the clutch not releasing (you already figured that out). What you also need to check for is cracks in the clutch pedal bracket. There's a whole (long) post on that: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...fatigue-32667/

Remember that your codes point to a circuit, not just the component. A broken wire will do it. Inspect the wiring carefully, and you might need to do the "wiggle test" when it's running. If bad enough, you might need to "tone out" (check for continuity) the wires with a multimeter.

Lots of things can go bad on a distributor, but they're way to expensive to replace on a guess. Here's the FSM to check the ignition system: http://web.archive.org/web/201212070.../4onvehicl.pdf In addition; gently push the rotor back and forth. You should feel very little lateral movement. If the bearing in the distributor is shot you'll get all sorts of odd ignition failures.
I just checked my clutch pedal bracket and it’s perfectly fine. The truck has stayed in California it’s whole life no rust I took my clutch fork boot off and my slave is working very well it seems replaced as it looks brand new and works perfectly fine. I can row through gears fine while it’s off but once it’s on it doesn’t engage so now I’m thinking I should replace my clutch? I would of replaced it at some point as for ignition I had to order a new multimeter since my old was was a bit out dated and it should come in the mail sometime this weekend
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Old May 30, 2021 | 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Allirtu
I just checked my clutch pedal bracket and it’s perfectly fine. The truck has stayed in California it’s whole life no rust I took my clutch fork boot off and my slave is working very well it seems replaced as it looks brand new and works perfectly fine. I can row through gears fine while it’s off but once it’s on it doesn’t engage so now I’m thinking I should replace my clutch? I would of replaced it at some point as for ignition I had to order a new multimeter since my old was was a bit out dated and it should come in the mail sometime this weekend
Update: The engine codes have been fixed now I just had to secure my spark plug wires
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