Power steering air hoses
#1
Power steering air hoses
Little pissed at Rockauto though my fault for not checking the new PS pump when I got it and too late to exhange it. The one I ordered came without the air hose attachment. Just curious if someone can tell me what the what the air hoses do.
#2
They cause the engine to idle at a bit higher RPM when the wheel is cranked over to the stop(s). The amount higher, within limits, is set by the large white knob on the side of the throttle body. Presuming the vacuum system components are there.
The vacuum device on the PS pump just unscrews, and you can just screw it onto the new one, if the port is there. If not, I think you can drill and tap it, or get a pump body that's designed for having it. You can also get a new vacuum device to screw in, if the old one is damaged somehow. They're not that costly.
Does that help at all?
Pat☺
The vacuum device on the PS pump just unscrews, and you can just screw it onto the new one, if the port is there. If not, I think you can drill and tap it, or get a pump body that's designed for having it. You can also get a new vacuum device to screw in, if the old one is damaged somehow. They're not that costly.
Does that help at all?
Pat☺
#3
They cause the engine to idle at a bit higher RPM when the wheel is cranked over to the stop(s). The amount higher, within limits, is set by the large white knob on the side of the throttle body. Presuming the vacuum system components are there.
The vacuum device on the PS pump just unscrews, and you can just screw it onto the new one, if the port is there. If not, I think you can drill and tap it, or get a pump body that's designed for having it. You can also get a new vacuum device to screw in, if the old one is damaged somehow. They're not that costly.
Does that help at all?
Pat☺
The vacuum device on the PS pump just unscrews, and you can just screw it onto the new one, if the port is there. If not, I think you can drill and tap it, or get a pump body that's designed for having it. You can also get a new vacuum device to screw in, if the old one is damaged somehow. They're not that costly.
Does that help at all?
Pat☺
i get the increase with the A/C, but not the PS(that i have ever noticed, anyway)
#4
About the same RPM increase as the AC causes. Like I say, the RPM increase is adjustable, with the large white knob right next to the throttle body. You only get the idle up when the wheel is cranked all the way to the stops, either direction. I leave my adjuster knob about halfway from the bottom.
Remember, when you hit the stops, the PS will bog down the engine a little, and the vacuum system compensates for that, so it really sounds about the same as at normal idle. The pump loads the engine, the vacuum system compensates at the same time, so you don't get an audible RPM INCREASE. It just sounds like the engine idle doesn't change, is the final result.
Does this help at all?
Pat☺
Remember, when you hit the stops, the PS will bog down the engine a little, and the vacuum system compensates for that, so it really sounds about the same as at normal idle. The pump loads the engine, the vacuum system compensates at the same time, so you don't get an audible RPM INCREASE. It just sounds like the engine idle doesn't change, is the final result.
Does this help at all?
Pat☺
#5
About the same RPM increase as the AC causes. Like I say, the RPM increase is adjustable, with the large white knob right next to the throttle body. You only get the idle up when the wheel is cranked all the way to the stops, either direction. I leave my adjuster knob about halfway from the bottom.
Remember, when you hit the stops, the PS will bog down the engine a little, and the vacuum system compensates for that, so it really sounds about the same as at normal idle. The pump loads the engine, the vacuum system compensates at the same time, so you don't get an audible RPM INCREASE. It just sounds like the engine idle doesn't change, is the final result.
Does this help at all?
Pat☺
Remember, when you hit the stops, the PS will bog down the engine a little, and the vacuum system compensates for that, so it really sounds about the same as at normal idle. The pump loads the engine, the vacuum system compensates at the same time, so you don't get an audible RPM INCREASE. It just sounds like the engine idle doesn't change, is the final result.
Does this help at all?
Pat☺
#6
Thanks. Years ago I would have been willing to drill and tap a hole but now I'll just pick up a rebuilt I found at a local Autozone. Drilling would probably introduce a lot of metal shavings into the pump which I can't image would be good for it.
#7
Yes. I believe that the drilling/tapping is supposed to be done before assembly of the pump. I think, personally, it would be better to find a reman, or whatever, that's already drilled and tapped.
Good luck, and enjoy!
Pat☺
Good luck, and enjoy!
Pat☺
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#8
And these seal on an inverted taper in the bottom. Need special tools to duplicate that. I've heard of people using a flanged bolt and washer to block it off, but that's not ideal for power steering hydraulic pressure.
Anyway, you can just cap the lines off and use that pump. Some people don't mind not having that idle up, and sometimes that valve can leak and pump your ATF from the power steering system into the intake.
Anyway, you can just cap the lines off and use that pump. Some people don't mind not having that idle up, and sometimes that valve can leak and pump your ATF from the power steering system into the intake.
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