93 pickup cranking but not starting. It was just all of a sudden I moved the truck one evening and next morning truck wouldn’t crank. It’s a 22re. Truck wouldn’t do anything. Found corroded neg cable. Repaired end of wiring and truck would attempt start. Thought I wasn’t getting fuel at this point so I jumped b+ to fp with jumper and fuel pump come on with key on and found I was getting fuel before filter. My question in using the jumper and getting the pump on did I eliminate the cor relay and air valve as being bad or could that still be an issue. I bought the truck almost a year ago. I dont know how long it’s been since it’s had a fuel filter but that’s my next plan of action. Any and all help is appreciated. Thanks

ive tried to search and read a lot on this before making post lol

 

Actually, the test you did ruled the COR/AFM circuit IN, not out. Most often it's the COR, but not always. There's a switch in the AFM you can check, that closes when the vane opens even slightly, that holds the COR energized when the engine is running. Until it closes, there's a start portion to the COR that closes when you turn the key to start, to energize the fuel pump during cranking.
The switch in the AFM is easy to check. Just measure across the two pins it uses, and open the vane. See if goes from open, infinity ohms, to closed, 0 ohms. If it does, it's either the COR or the wiring. Get a wiring diagram and trace out the wires if you relace, or ohm out the COR, and it's good. I took a chance when mine did that, and replaced the COR. That was the problem.

Do NOT run for any length of time with the jumper in. The whole COR setup is a huge safety system. If you get in an accident, it shuts the fuel pump down so it's not spraying fuel out of a broken line. Severe safety problem with the jumper in, as it can keep running the fuel pump. Fire hazard to the max. Not only for you, but for first responders that may have to drag your unconscious body out.

I would definitely change out the fuel filter. Remember that the arrow points back at the fuel tank, not forward. It sounds backwards, but they way the designed the hoses, it's the right way. I always make sure I have spare crush washers, too. It's very easy, the way they mounted the filter, to drop one during installation. Personally, I am of the firm opinion that they're malicious little critters. They seem to vanish if you drop them, especially if you don't have spares.
NEVER, EVER, reuse a crush washer, too. Even if you tightened things down a little bit, get rid of them. You can NOT reuse on that's been crushed down, even a little bit. That's another real good reason to have spares on hand. One little mistake, with no spares, and you have to get them anyway. Better to have them on hand. They're cheap. Get spares.

Good luck!
Pat☺

 

Ok so fuel filter is changed and still is doing same thing. Pulled the cover off the afm and when I manually move the meter the relay clicks and pump comes on. I’ll check the afm tonight when I get home. Thank you for the reply. I had been looking for a way to test it and found one. Thank you so much

 

Well, if you moved the vane in the AFM, and the pump came on, you've eliminated the AFM and wiring to the COR. Pretty much leaves the start-up half of the COR. It's right above the ECU, under the right (passenger) kick panel. Very easy to replace. They're about $65.00 at the dealer.
Heh, when I had to replace the one on my 87 4Runner, it took me a while to teach the dealer where it was in the truck. The parts counter guy was younger than the truck, by a fair amount. He was amazed anyone still had a truck that old. I just told him that it's an indication of Toyota reliability
I was driving to the store in my little local town one day, and when I pulled up to the 4 way stop, the only stop in town, I looked round at the other 3 Toyota Silver 87 4Runners. We all just sat and stared in amazement at each other for a while, then went on our separate ways. It was a wierd, but nifty, experience. So yeah, they're rare, but apparently real popular around my area.

Anywho, pretty sure you've narrowed it down to the COR. I'm not a "throw parts at it" kind of guy, but in this case, I'd throw a COR at the problem
Good luck!
Pat☺

 

Ok so I changed cor relay and the afm and same thing it will turn over but not start. Is it possible the thing jumped time? It ran fine up until it wouldn’t start. Just drove and parked it the night before this happened

 

No, I don't THINK it could have jumped a tooth, unless your timing chain is so loose it jumped a tooth either on the crank or cam sprockets, or both. Usually has to have eaten the guide, or tensioner, or both, to do that. You can take a look at the timing chain pretty easily. Just pull off the valve cover. You can use a good flashlight to look down the area the timing chain runs, and see the guide, which I THINK is on the driver's side, and the tensioner, opposite it. If you don't have fat hands like I do, you can even reach down along the timing chain to check the tension. I have to use a long, heavy, screwdriver to check mine. Fat hands.
If it IS loose enough it might have jumped a tooth, you'll be able to see it clearly and easily. It would need to jump more than a single tooth to make it NOT run at all, though. I believe it would have to jump 2 or more to do that. I may well be wrong on that, however.

It sounds to me more like there might be a problem with a broken wire between the AFM and COR, keyswitch and the COR, or the COR and the fuel pump. If the fuel pump runs with the key on and the afm vane open, however, it is more likely that perhaps there is another fuel supply problem. One way to see if you're getting fuel to the cylinders when cranking is to sniff the exhaust to see if it smells like fuel, or, if it doesn't start, just cranks, are the spark plugs wet with fuel after cranking. If no fuel, but the pump is pressurizing the system, well, fuel filter, FPR, or injector(s) clogged. You can check all the fuel system, except the injectors, by putting a clear plastic pipe onto the FPR return line, and putting it into a container, then jumpering the fuel pump, and checking you get about 1/2 Liter/minute.
If they are not, or if it starts for a few seconds then dies, obviously that test means nothing. I would suspect that if it does start for a few seconds then dies, I would suspect the wiring between the keyswitch and the COR.

Have you tried the distributor cap? Have you checked the pickup coil in the distributor? Both ohms and airgap? Have you checked/replaced the plug wires and/or center wire to the distributor from the coil. How about the plugs themselves? NOW, I'm guessing

Keep us up to date on how it's going!
Pat☺