So I've been having a hard starting problem on my recently rebuilt 22re. Even when it is 80-90 degrees F outside.

It has to crank over 10-12 times before it even begins to start, hesitates for a crank or two...then starts right up and runs great.

I've read almost every thread on similar problems and can't seem to find an answer.

Things I've done:
TPS adjustment
Timing
AFM Check
jumpered fuel pump

(none of these things helped)

Today however i had someone hold open my AFM right when i turned the key to start and it fired right up.

Why would it do this if the jumpered fuel pump didn't help?

 

Circuit opening relay or wiring to-from it.

 

I forgot to add that it is much easier to start if it hasn't been sitting for half a day or so

I will check on the cor...will just doing the check in the fsm work?

 

I would suggest grabbing some wire and making some jumpers so you can simulate the COR operation- turning the fuel pump on while cranking, turning the fuel pump on when the engine is running as have the means to test the wiring to/from the COR as well as the COR itself.

 

Also make sure the damper on the fuel rail is not leaking. If it is, it'll allow fuel pressure to slowly leak down. Then when cold, the engine has to crank longer before building up fuel pressure again and then it fires right up.

 

My 87 was 2 teeth off on the timing and it did this.

 

I'm kinda confused by what you mean?

Today...after letting it sit all night...I jumpered the Fp B+ diagbox so that the fuel pump would turn on.

Then I tried starting...it cranked over probably 6-8 times...then as soon as my dad pushed open the AFM flap it started right up.

Why would this be happening? (What systems does the AFM affect? Where is the HAC?) This is an 87 4runner by the way.

 

I think you have a bad VAFM. Here is the testing procedure:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/engine/33volumeai.pdf

James

 

Checked the COR...its good to go.

And I've checked the AFM...ill check it again though.

"waskillywabbit" - did your's run with the timing chain two teeth off...cause mine runs fine once its started. It even starts way better if it has been started/running recently.

 

Also...i made sure the screw on the damper was tight...it might actually be stripped. How would i know if it was leaking?

 

sounds like a fuel leak issue, have you tried letting the fuel pump run like10 sec or so b4 starting? it is kinda weird that itll start right up when you push the afm flap....

 

Yep, it would run fine once you could get it started.

 

I have to adjust my valves anyway...so I might as well dive in and check the timing chain. I guess I'd immediately ruled that out since I thought it wouldn't run with a tooth off. (though I am still confused on how that explains the ease of starting when the trucks been recently running?)

Whats the best way to check if its on the right tooth?

Oh and yes...i've made sure that the fuel pump had some time to run...I don't think that is the problem.

 

sweet thanks for the pics and description...i'll hit that timing chain up soon.

And yeah I originally thought it was the CS timing switch but why would they have a switch like that if it made it hard to start whenever its warm out...that switch isn't supposed to be on when its hot out and i dont think it is.

 

just finished checking my timing chain...it was set exactly as depicted in your picture. So thats not it....hmmm talk about frusterating, especially cause I've got to wait like 6 hrs to verify if any changes I've made have helped.

 

I hear ya brotha!! I'm in the same boat.... watchin this thread closely, and I'll post up if I figure my issue out first... although I prolly wont, cuz its not my rig, and I got issues with my rig now.....

 

Once it is running, how is the idle? Is it lower than normal or higher than normal? A sticking idle speed motor or whatever Toyota calls it, will cause a hard start due to too much air is bypassing the throttle plate. If you depress the gas pedal just a little bit, does that help it start?

JAmes

 

Depressing the gas pedal only helps it start once it starts catching...so after the 10th or so crank. up until then it doesn't do anything...doesn't sound like any ignition is happening, no sound...its not struggling, its just turning over.

 

Do the basics first. Check to see if you have spark when the problem is happening. No spark then we will go from there. If you have spark, test for injection pulse. You need a noid light and you can get them at the parts store. DO NOT USE A 194 bulb!! You can use a 12v LED if you have one. Do this basic tests and let us know.

James

 

So when you have tried to start it with the AFM held open, how do you do that? Do you have it separated from the airbox? Have you checked the crossover tube for leaks (cracks or openings) or any of the other major vacuum lines? Did you do any major cleaning of the TB or intake parts?


bako88