I got my truck an overhaul but the mechanic does not do electrical. Says I need an electrical guy to fix the following codes: 24, 27, 31, 52. The truck has been sitting awhile starts up but once you turn it off it must be jumped again for some reason. It does click but not start. My questions are; What do those codes mean? What is causing the truck to stop and not start again after running for an hour? Is this problem related to any of the above codes? My truck is an 89 Toyota P/U with a 22R-E engine.

 

What do you mean exactly.
it cranks/ turns over but won't start.
won't crank or turn over at all?

 

Please always include Model-Year-Engine-TRANSMISSION-trim info.
Faint click or energetic?
Exactly what clicks and where?

 

It makes a distinct hard click that I can hear behind the dashboard. It does not turnover. However the more I turn it the fainter it gets until it is silent.

 

http://web.archive.org/web/201410310...26diagnosi.pdf

None of these codes have anything to do with your click-no-start, so I plan to leave that to others. You will need to deal with the codes eventually.

You'll note that 24 and 31 are (sorta) related; they have to do with the VAF (and it's connector). Make sure that's hooked up.

Code 27 is only for vehicles that have the second O2 sensor aft of the Cat. Usually a California truck. Is that what you have?

Code 52 is, well, a tough one. Your ECM has "lost touch" with your knock sensor. Usually, this is the "pigtail" between the knock sensor lead and the front engine harness.

Good luck@

 

Well the click no start thing just sounds like bad battery or maybe a bad alternator. I'd just check voltage with the vehicle off, then check it with the engine running. If you get less than 12V with the vehicle off and around 14 volts with it running, change out the battery or charge it with a plug in charger and see if it holds charge when disconnected. If you don't get around 14 volts with the vehicle running you'll need to troubleshoot the charging system. Sounds like a bad ground or loose wire somewhere is a possibility, or could be the alternator...
And I'd avoid that "not my job" mechanic, assuming you're paying him.

 

Yes I have a California Model Truck so that is my #27 Thanks.

 

Got the Truck looked at and wow, I had to update my catalytic converter, for starters. My CAT was 9 years old and none of my sensors matched so I had to replace the CAT and the two sensors for it. Also replaced the tail pipe. As for the code 52 K/S. It will have no bearing on my Smog Check so I will replace it later. My battery just needed a nice long charge for a few hours. So that saga is finally over. Thanks for all the great answers. I went to Freds Auto Care of Glendale. Great Guy if you live in the San Fernando Valley. fredsautocare1@gmail.com or fredsautocare.com.
Does anybody out there know who has a great Knock Sensor for 89 Toyota that I can order from online?

 

Smog check doesn't directly check for anything to do with the knock sensor, but when you're getting code 52 the ECU dramatically retards the timing. That's not going to help any of your tail-pipe measurements. I'm not saying you'll necessarily fail (believe it or not, you've got an enormous amount of room before you'll fail), just prepare yourself for a possible surprise.

Did you figure out that your Code 52 is caused by the sensor, and not by the wiring? RockAuto has plenty of knock sensors over a wide range of prices. But many who have had a tough time eliminating that code insist on only using an OEM sensor. About $200 https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/p/T...961520010.html

 

Glad your on your way to passing smog And enjoying your rig...
THANK YOU for posting your progress!!!

 

The Mechanic stated that the Sensor/plenum was bad. However I did pass smog and he stated that eventually I will need to replace it. Should I replace it and wiring simultaneously?

 

my rule of thumb is, IF it's not broke don't fix it. If it's running good and no issues if it were me... I'd leave it be. But that's just me. Good luck and have fun.