Hello Everyone,
I recently replaced my power steering hoses (pressure and return) on my '93 4runner 2wd and in the process, I broke the air valve. I ended up gluing it back and putting it back on since it was only the ends where the hoses connect. I put back in and now it's running rich (I assume since there is lots of black smoke coming out of the exhaust), it idles quite low, and it's making a ticking noise from the back of the air intake. I capped off the air valve and the hoses and it ran ok until it warmed up then ran rough. I went to the junkyard today and picked up a used air valve from an 87 corolla and it's still running rough.
I recently changed all the accessory belts and removed the ABS actuator.
I plan on buying a new PS air valve, any thoughts on the Dorman brand?
Also, any thoughts on how should I go about diagnosing what may be causing the rough idle and richness?

 

After recently reading threads about random things to fix on my 1st gen, alot of people who seemed to have similar issues as you mentioned o2 sensors. Maybe try replacing those and see what happens. Ones for my rig are only $30 from the auto parts store.

 

My '86 acted like this for a few miles a couple of weeks ago and again last week.
I was able to get a blink code while it was acting up this time.
I got 4, 5 and 10 codes.
4 was the temp sensor. I unplugged this to check ohms and forgot to plug it back in. My bad.
5 was the O2 sensor and 10 is for the ECU.
I quick trip to the Green Auto store for a O2 sensor and fixed.........

If there is a kink in the braded wire it's broken...

Good Luck.

 

Any progress?

 

Hello Everyone,
I appreciate the replies regarding the O2 sensor. I had not thought about it going bad after 20+ years. I haven't had time to work on the truck, the weather hasn't been the best and my dog tore his knee ligament so he has needed more care than usual.
I'll probably get going with changing the old vacuum hoses, PCV valve, power steering air valve, and cleaning the throttle body, later this week and see how that goes. I'll report back, hopefully with some better news.
Thanks again.

 

Update:
for the most part the new o2 sensor is working.
But twice now the above condition has come back but only briefly both times.
Both times when it was cold, above freezing once and today a few degrees below freezing.
A mile into my three mile drive to work it starts to act up.
I get to work throw open the hood to get a code and find the top of the radiator cold, ice cold as well as the upper hose and the thermostat housing.
But the housing for the CSI timer and the EFI temp switch was to hot to touch.

I think I may have a cheep single stage thermostat where I need the two stage ones for $40 bucks.
That and I was running the heater full blast so that may have sucked all the heat out of the coolant so the tstat wouldn't open.

 

What's your coolant level look like?

 

Coolant level good, clean and tank to full line.
I was thinking......
I fixed my A/C last fall and this morning I was using the defroster with the A/C button pushed.
Soooooo nice to have a working defroster after not having it at all.

Could it be that the A/C-defroster kept pouring cold coolant onto the thermostat?

Tomorrow morning when I go to work there will be 6" of snow to drive thru.
I'll see if not super cooling the coolant helps.

Oh and 22RE with 240,000 miles and going strong!

 

You can get a decent two stage thermostat at O'Reillys for about 10 bucks. :: 2 stage 22re thermostat - YotaTech Forums

Murray dual stage thermo #41492

 

UPDATE:
So I finally got to work on the 4runner. I ended up with:

• new O2 sensor,
• most of the vacuum lines with the LC engineering kit
• PS air control valve
• new fuel filter
• new PCV valve
• added an oil catch can
• cleaned the plenum and gasket (had lots of black deposits)
• cleaned the Cold Start Injector (also lots of black deposit on it)
• cleaned the throttle body and new gasket ( it had oil in it when I took it off)
• new - used brake fluid reservoir (from a 99 4runner)
• speed bleeders on the front calipers

Prior to doing all of this it was idling below 500rpms, running rich and spewing black smoke. Now it runs much better, although it's idling just above 1000rpms when in park and around 800prms when in drive. Not sure what is going on there, I do notice some "chatter" in the engine coming from the passenger side, . Could there be something I'm missing?
Also, my brakes are also not working the best. The truck came with the rudimentary ABS system that ran the brake and PS through the ABS actuator. I ended up removing the actuator, unplugging the ABS sensor in the rear differential, the computer inside, and the module under the hood. I bled them twice (including the LSPV) but the pedal still goes all the way to the floor. Any ideas?