Hi all,

after doing some extensive searching, I have finally decided to ask if anyone knows why my front passenger side wheel is about 3/4 inch off from the rest of the wheels. It's aligned and lifted with coil spacers (upgrading to a toytech lift come the summer). If I let go of the wheel the truck still drives perfectly straight... Has stock UCA's and LCA's. 1 inch spidertrax spacers all around and the wheels are all the same offset.

The front drivers side also pokes out a little bit further than the back wheels. So it seems as if the entire front has "shifted" towards the driver side.. Not incredibly noticeable but since it's mine I just want to know what the heck this could be!

If anyone has dealt with a similar issue or has any feedback it is greatly appreciated

Pictures are attached.

 

Your steering wheel looks slightly turned to the right in that pic, so not a good way to judge, just because the steering wheel is straight doesn't mean the tires are pointed straight. Are the LCA cam bolts mirroring each other LHS & RHS, tie rod thread within 2mm L&R, have you done any Panhard bar corrections.

 

Thank you for the response! Really appreciate it.

Turns out the LCA cam bolts were not mirroring each other and it should be a simple fix for when the new lift goes on

Attached photos of the LCA cam bolts in case anyone else might find it useful.

Thanks man!

 

That's for alignment, not aesthetics. And the do caster and camber, but won't make (I think) that much of a difference in how far the top of the tire sticks out.

You have a non-stock amount of tire-poke on three tires - what makes them stick out further than normal? Non-stock wheels with less offset? Are there some spacers/adapters on 3 of the 4 wheels?

 

Thanks for the feedback.

Aftermarket rims, yes. And Spidertrax wheel spacers. Spacers are on all 4 of the wheels and all 1 inch. Only thing I can think of is that the rim potentially has different backspacing or offset? But I checked underneath today (without taking the wheel off).. All of the rims say "ET -6" on the back.

 

Guessing from you comments that you aren't the original owner.
Don't mess with the lower control arm bolts, go to an alignment shop for that.
You either need to go over the entire frame and suspension with a fine toothed comb looking for signs of an accident or take it to an alignment shop or frame shop to have them look it over.

 

thanks for the response,

yeah I wasn’t planning on messing with the lower control arm bolts. Yes, I am the 2nd owner and had the frame fully inspected before I bought it.

Going to bring it to a shop to see if there’s an underlying issue or if it’s something suspension related. Fingers crossed it’s suspension as I was planning to change it out anyways.

again, thanks for taking the time to respond!

 

That is just the front Cams you are showing us, the passenger side one is way out of its range, and if you go by that randomly located paint mark it looks like its slipped out of position. there is actually a line at the top for making precision adjustments using the lines on the Cam sleeve. I take my skid plates off when i go for the alignment to make there job accessible, and I print this out as its not gunna be easy for them, and I ask them to put it in a certain spot not just in the green and print me a copy of alignment afterwards, I omit the measure height of vehicle part though, They hate me at Toyota LoL.

http://www.teamtoyota4x4.org/archivi...a/fwa/insp.pdf

 

yeah for sure- it’s way off haha. Both the front and back bolts on each side are the same. Taking the wheel off today to measure if it’s different than the others first

 

So if that's the case both p-side cams are retracted and would put the tire inboard, probably not tightened enough last alignment, even the randomly located paint mark in the d-side looks to have shifted slightly or its camera angle, again they should ball park toe and then be using the line at the top of the cam and only the rear cam bolts should be maxed beyond the marks to get the most caster outta it for lifted 4Rs pushing the tire forward then camber and revisit toe, both cams effect caster and camber and toe so it takes a lot of patience to get it right that's why it's best to be specific about what numbers you want or they will get it in the green if your lucky and let it roll out the door.

 

man, thank you for such an in-depth response!

ill keep all of this in mind, like I said- it’s not like the truck drives wonky or out of line right now so I’m not concerned. But this is the only logical explanation I can find for it! Still going to take that wheel off and measure it to make sure; however, I think I’m going to remove those wheel spacers when my lift goes on and hopefully solve all the issues at once. (Diff drop/save the CV axles a bit and get it aligned perfectly with SPC UCA’s.)

thanks again, have a good one man.

 

It should be noted that on 3rd gen 4Runner the rear axle is narrower than the front wheels, I think it's a 3/8" or 1/2" narrower total so the rear should always be tucked in slightly more 1/4" or less on each side, I have no idea why, and it's a non-issue like that from the flagship Tahara Plant so I'm sure they had a reason.
worn rack bushings are also a cause for grief aligning it as would be worn control arm bushing making alignment impossible, something to look into.