I'm tearing down a 3.0 to rebuild, have another 3.0 with a blown block that I'm going to use the top end parts from, heads & cams etc. So the engine I'm tearing down I don't really care about, just going for the block. The cam pulley bolts are cranked down way too hard, all my weight on a 24" breaker won't budge them. Im breaking tools trying to remove them.
Am I able to just take off the cams with pulleys attached? I think I'll have to cut the rear timing cover but I have a spare.

 

Or as an alternative, does anyone have tips on how to break camshaft pulley bolts?

 

If you cut the plate how do you think you can get them back in?

Have you upgraded to an impact socket already, these are much tougher and less likely to stretch/shatter.

 

These cams I'm not going to be putting back nessecarily, I have 2 engines and the other is in better shape aside from a blown block so I'm going to be using the heads and cams from that one. Although that one is being difficult to break as well.

I actually just ordered an impact socket this size, I'll see if it helps. The socket I've been trying with hasn't shown any damage yet but an impact will definitely do better

 

Oh I just assumed the socket broke, you damaged a breaker bar?

 

An adapter. I have an impact set in 3/8 drive, and used them on a 1/2" breaker. Broke the adapter of course. Its all I had at the time so I gave it a try before I realized how tight they were. Picked up a 1/2" drive socket but they didn't have impact so that's what I've been using and still no dice. Ordered an impact socket, it'll be here Saturday.

Im definitely going to need to remove the pulleys from the cam on the other engine even if I take a shortcut with this one.

 

Time for some power tools.

 

Yea an air impact would be nice. I have an 18v impact but it doesn't have enough ugga duggas in it to break these

 

Have you tried heat? It'll ruin the cam seals but you're obviously not worried about that anyways. A couple minutes with a MAP torch might just give you the advantage you need with the breaker bar, or even your battery impact. If not, I'd call around to some shops and see if they'd let you use an air impact if you could swing by with the engine in the back of a pickup or something.

 

To tired or lazy to look up a reference, there is a rule of thumb that says the cross section of your bolt shouldn't be larger than the cross section of your tool..

You should be fine with a good sockect and the breaker bar of the right drive size.

 

Put a longer pipe on the breaker bar for more leverage. Stronger than your battery impact

 

Haven't tried heat yet. Don't have a torch big enough to do it but I can get one if all else fails.

I have a pipe on the end of the breaker, it's still not quite enough. Longer pipe maybe...

My impact socket will be here at some point today, I'll give it another shot once it arrives. I don't trust my current socket with how much force I'm putting on it

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FPW0...=map+torch+tip
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/FPW0...Input=09160122
This is what I use in my shop for most stubborn bolts. It usually does the trick without having to break out the acetylene torch.

 

Got them all off. Had to get some help from a buddy with a bit more heft behind him, and a 3' pipe in the end. Thanks for all your suggestions

 

Next time go with the 5 foot pipe.... Lol
I'm glad you got them off

 

Next time go with the 5 foot pipe.... Lol
I'm glad you got them off

 

You really should have a impact gun,,,breaker bars have a tendency to BREAK bolts off instead of just breaking free. Good you succeeded. I have 1/2" air impact but my next will be battery powered. Great for bone yard pics along with my battery powered SAWZAL

 

Tut-tut.
It's not a "pipe". In that application, it's known as a "torque amplifier". The 5' version is the large, or "Big F(*&^ing Torque Amplifier".



Seriously, though, I agree that an impact driver is the better choice for this sort of application. At the very worst, once you have the torque amplifier attached, use a ballpeen hammer and strike the bolt while applying pressure. It doesn't duplicate the way an impact driver works, but the hammer impacts may well help get the bolt broken loose, instead of shearing it off.
It sure worked well when I went to change out the steering stabilizer. We heated it with an oxy-acetaline torch, got a breaker bar on it, and beat the heck out of it for a while. It broke loose, no shearing, or damage at all, other than the rubber grommet melting some from heating it up.

Good luck to you!
Pat☺