OK, new one to me. I just got the timing set on the 22re after a top end rebuild. I am pretty sure I have the timing set right, had to do it manually as the jumper wire would not retard the RPM, so manually set it to 12 using the timing light. I brought it up to temp so I could verify my valve lash, and happened to think of checking the temp of the headers per cylinder. I found cylinder 1 and 3 indicating 435 F but 2 and 4 only at 250 F.

Everything sounds fine, no indication of a miss fire or anything, compression is good and matches per cylinder (cant remember off the top of my head but have it written somewhere), and everything else appears fine.

Any thoughts?

Top end rebuild was due to a lack of power, I know I had compression issues and a bent valve was found on cylinder 3, machine shop made the repair and now all compression is good.

I find it odd though that 2 and 4, 1 and 3 are tied on the fuel injector pulses, but all "seems" fine on that side of things. If it was injector related I would think the header temps on those cylinders would be much lower as the radiant temp would not heat things that much, especially on #4 where I have free air on the back side.

This is cross posted on pirate 4x4 as well.

 

Just so you know, copying and pasting onto this forum defaults the writing to gray, which makes it very hard to read on the black background. Should be able to edit and choose "white" for colour.

As for your temp problems, I have no idea, but if your jumper wire is not dropping back to base timing and idle then something is definitely wrong. I would figure that out before looking at anything else. Your TPS could be out of adjustment.

Just my thoughts.

 

Looks fine on mobile, but interesting you brought that up since I've been seeing lots of grey on grey quoted text lately. Has anyone brought this to the site feedback?

 

O​​​​​r another wiring issue, like something unplugged or disconnected.

Definitely start with getting the diagnostics, base timing mode. Maybe do a once over of your electronic system including ignition system. Also without more details of what, where, and how you're testing nobody can give numbers to compare to (and yes 200° difference is probably a big issue, but it could be as simple as where you pointed the temp gun, assuming it was an IR temp gun too.. You see where this is going, we are left to guess and assume things..)

 

Trying to cover all comments/

First, sorry, I did not know that copy paste would do that. Just trying to reach out to as many sources as possible.

So I am an electrician by trade (aircraft) and have been replacing every wire in this one at a time due to the wiring being old. So all my wiring is new in the last 8 months. The timing jumper wire has never worked at all in this truck and I know the past three owners, they have had the same problem. Not sure where to even begin on that one as I even have multiple spare ECU's and they have not made a difference. TPS has recently been replaced, what a pain in the @$$ to calibrate that properly. I have one of those little noid lights that says the injector wiring is working right, so I have that going for me.

When I took the measurements and noted the temp difference I pointed the IR gun at the same location on each header tube from the left side of the vehicle so everything should have been even. The truck had been running for about 5 minutes, and sounded fine, no vibrations or noises that made me think something was wrong.

The only thing I have not done yet that I think may be related to this is replace the actual injectors. For an '88 I have not been able to fine them. I will have to do the resistor box delete and run a newer injector with different Ohm.

 

​​​​​​Diagnostics mode, have you tryed grounding it at the ECU?

Your relation of a PiTA to adjust the tps makes me wonder if it is to spec, it's literally insert guage X (0.52, or what ever it is) turn until you read open on IDL and tighten it down.
here is your friendly facepalming Picard trophy
Your just taking the slack out of the system, but I digress.

By pass both of these and ground them at the ECU and monitor the (MIL) check engine light at the ECU also for steady pulses. If this doesn't work your problem is probably that ECU connector has loose plug/pin gaps.

You say you tested the injector, you tested at the injector side of the plug yes? Well since you managed to get your hands in there, try swapping the harness plug for its neighbor and see if the hot/cold spots move.