is it worth the money and labour? i don't have any on-road complaints with my 4.10 setup except when i climb hills

 

Having gone through a regear, I think that it is worth the money.

I can't tell from the picture...what engine do you have?

 

How much does a regear usually run after parts and labor (breakdown please)?

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I think this is something that not your average shadetree mechanic can undertake. That's just too bad.

 

I still have the 4.10's in my taco with 33's and its not too bad, if i do regear i will go with 4.56's, that will put my power close to stock, 4.88's are a little low for me, as for setting up a ring and pinion, it just takes experience, and to know what to look for with the tooth contact patch, or pattern. when i was at UTI and in Truck Powertrains, we set up 3rd members out if class 8 trucks, it actually was easier than you would think, but i wouldn't recommend anyone to try to set up their own, its not worth it, you will save x amount in labor, but when you eat up a set of gears, then you will regret it, and it will cost you more in the long run

 

4.88s is probably going to be too much gear for 33s.... 4.56s or even keeping the 4.10s would be more appropriate

labor and gear will most likely run about $400 per axle

 

I agree, stick with the 4.10 toy gears. Unless crawling is the priority for you. I would not like the higher rpms at highway speeds with 4.88's. That's a show stopper for me. I hear 1800.00 for gears and labor installed, if you do the diffs. 2400.00 for a crawler, installed which is what I'm saving for.

 

I'm getting 4.88 this weekend. And the suggestion of this board was 4.88 if your s/c or plan on crawling or both. Gas milage is going to suck .. but oh well, its only an extra $1 or so every fill up, and you get a better off road performance

 

you guys are failing to note that he has a 1992 truck. 4.88s will be great. in fact, it was a factory option for some 4Runners with 31s.

 

Yup, good catch. We stand corrected. Go for it!
Scott

 

Yep... I'd go with 4.88's. I've got 4.56's factory with my 31's right now, and it's a perfect match. Some even go as low as 5.29's with 33's, but that's those who use their rig most off-road. 4.88's will bring your performance closest to stock, but slightly better.

 

22re. there's a local guy thats selling front and rears for $450 cdn. i'm thinking about doing the deal. a bit more power up the hills would be great, but higher rpms on the highways is not what i'm after. it's too bad i couldn't find someone else that has the 4.88/33 setup and take their truck for a test drive.

 

wow, the 22re huh? i cant imagine the 22re with 4.10s and 33s, i dont like my 3.4V6 with 4.10s and 33s.

i would cash in on that local deal for 4.88s and come back and tell us how much you like it.

 

actually, guys that are really serious about crawling/etc will use higher gears, like 4.10s. stronger ring and pinion. they just make up for it with more transfer cases

lower diff gears helps quite a bit on the road. generally the rule of thumb for 4 cylinder minitrucks is 4.56 for 31, 4.88 for 33, and 5.29 for 35, with manual transmissions anyhow. don't taco 4 bangers have much higher gears stock, like 3.58? then i could see using 4.56s for 33s

i'm probably gonna stick with my stock gears for a while, i'll probably wait until i have a 5 speed to regear(higher diff gears are much nicer with the 4 speed, since there's no overdrive)

 

my '99 has 4.10's stock, according to the door sticker code

 

So right now you have 33's, you have 4.10's and you have a 4 cylinder? You do not, however, have any issues with this set-up? I think it sounds to me like you ought to stay where you are at unless you are regearing.

Just parts for a regear, and only a regear, is $800 if you go with good gears, new bearings, etc. You are looking at another $200 or so per diff if you drop off the diffs and much more if you drive in and drop the whole truck.

I have around $2500 into front and rear ARB's and 5.29 Precisions. I could not deal with 4.56's and 31's let alone 33's.

If you have no issues and are not putting in lockers, "Leave the bloody thing alone."

 

If you want to maximize the power your 4banger puts out then regearing with 4.88 is a good way to go. You'll be surprise. Right now, compare to stock, you're driving uphill all the time....
I have V6. I could tell the differece with 4.56 with 33's and 5.29 with 35's. I feel like my truck hae more horses than before.

 

ya, it's just the hills that bother me. like i said earlier, there's a guy selling front and rear 4.88s (V6 rears) for $450 cdn. I could just buy them and swap em at a later date when i have more time. just wondering if this is a good deal or not. he says the truck had 160,000 kms that they were taken out of.

 

I'm thinking about eventually putting a 2" lift on my truck and 33x12.5's, if/when I do that I'm gonna stick with my 4.10's

quick question, can the speedometer be corrected? I heard from someone a few years ago that you can't fix it once you move up to an even larger tire..
I think mine's about correct right now, I measured a distance in my moms car and then in my truck with the odometer the car said 5.7 miles and my truck's said 5.6...

 

IMO, 33's and 4.88's w/ a 22RE would be perfect. Got 32's and 4.88's and my highway RPM's is a little high. As for the speedometer question, they make a speedo calibration unit that installs between the speedo cable and t-case. A speedo shop should be able to get you one. You provide 'em your gear ratio in the diffs and tire size and you'll get a unit calibrated to those specs. Got mine from Downey.

 

I've got a 5 speed, 31's and went from 4:30 to 4:88's last week. It drives like a totally different vehicle, and I wish I wouldn't have waited for so long to do it. When these tires wear out, I'll probably go to 32's to slow it back down a bit.

As proof, I let my wife drive it this last weekend, and she could care less about the stuff, and she noticed it drove a lot better.