Question regarding oil pan gaskets (3VZE)
Dec 30, 2019 | 06:39 PM
#1
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Question regarding oil pan gaskets (3VZE)
Firstly, this is not an easy job. I was aware that would be the case but I didn't imagine it being quite so difficult.
The long and the short of it is I'm experiencing some trouble with my gaskets that I ordered for my 4runner. When I pulled the pan off, I found very thin cork type gaskets with sealer in addition to the gaskets, which from what I gather is how the FSM directs you to do it. That's fine but the FEL-PRO gaskets I got are probably double the thickness of the cork ones that were on there. The gaskets are also made of a more rubberized compound with cork in it, but not nearly as much. I also found the bolts basically finger tight. Not totally sure if this was done right by the previous owner.
For those in the know:
Gasket +Toyota Sealer: the right way to do it?
Gasket too thick: Just use longer bolts? once I get them threaded I suppose I could get the last 4 nuts on with the pan sucked up tight to the block?
Thanks for any answers and I hope this goes back together without leaks.
The long and the short of it is I'm experiencing some trouble with my gaskets that I ordered for my 4runner. When I pulled the pan off, I found very thin cork type gaskets with sealer in addition to the gaskets, which from what I gather is how the FSM directs you to do it. That's fine but the FEL-PRO gaskets I got are probably double the thickness of the cork ones that were on there. The gaskets are also made of a more rubberized compound with cork in it, but not nearly as much. I also found the bolts basically finger tight. Not totally sure if this was done right by the previous owner.
For those in the know:
Gasket +Toyota Sealer: the right way to do it?
Gasket too thick: Just use longer bolts? once I get them threaded I suppose I could get the last 4 nuts on with the pan sucked up tight to the block?
Thanks for any answers and I hope this goes back together without leaks.
Dec 30, 2019 | 07:19 PM
#2
Firstly, this is not an easy job. I was aware that would be the case but I didn't imagine it being quite so difficult.
The long and the short of it is I'm experiencing some trouble with my gaskets that I ordered for my 4runner. When I pulled the pan off, I found very thin cork type gaskets with sealer in addition to the gaskets, which from what I gather is how the FSM directs you to do it. That's fine but the FEL-PRO gaskets I got are probably double the thickness of the cork ones that were on there. The gaskets are also made of a more rubberized compound with cork in it, but not nearly as much. I also found the bolts basically finger tight. Not totally sure if this was done right by the previous owner.
For those in the know:
Gasket +Toyota Sealer: the right way to do it?
Gasket too thick: Just use longer bolts? once I get them threaded I suppose I could get the last 4 nuts on with the pan sucked up tight to the block?
Thanks for any answers and I hope this goes back together without leaks.
The long and the short of it is I'm experiencing some trouble with my gaskets that I ordered for my 4runner. When I pulled the pan off, I found very thin cork type gaskets with sealer in addition to the gaskets, which from what I gather is how the FSM directs you to do it. That's fine but the FEL-PRO gaskets I got are probably double the thickness of the cork ones that were on there. The gaskets are also made of a more rubberized compound with cork in it, but not nearly as much. I also found the bolts basically finger tight. Not totally sure if this was done right by the previous owner.
For those in the know:
Gasket +Toyota Sealer: the right way to do it?
Gasket too thick: Just use longer bolts? once I get them threaded I suppose I could get the last 4 nuts on with the pan sucked up tight to the block?
Thanks for any answers and I hope this goes back together without leaks.
No cork gasket was used here from the factory, nor called for in the FSM.
Scroll up a few pages in the FSM and they show the S.S.T. they use to cut through the FIPG..
I always do the nuts first, they are easy to see and you wont spend much if any time making sure nothing crossthreads, since its a time sensitive job.
And yes the bolts aren't very tight at all so as not to deform the sheet metal pan. Cinch down the nuts until you see the FIPG start to squish, then run in the bolts at the corners (again till you see the FIPG start to squish), now run in the other dozen or so bolts till they touch the pan. All this is done by hand by the way. Now go take a couple minutes to clean up and let the FIPG setup/cure. Finally you can come back and tighten everything down to the 52 inch pound called for.
Dec 30, 2019 | 07:30 PM
#3
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Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 22
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Ok, this makes more sense to me now. I read through the FSM and was just unsure if they used a gasket or not. Probably why this one failed so soon after the engine rebuild by the previous owner (65,000KMS) I noticed the grooves in the oil baffle and the oil pan while cleaning it all. If I don't need gaskets, this will make the whole job a lot easier on me.
I'll post up once I get this thing completed. Thanks for the quick reply.
I'll post up once I get this thing completed. Thanks for the quick reply.
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