3VZE oil pan gasket: cork, FIPG or both?
#1
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3VZE oil pan gasket: cork, FIPG or both? + 2WD AT R&R
Tomorrow morning I'm gonna stop my last oil leak by fixing the oil pan gasket, woo hoo! Should be a breeze compared to the valve cover gaskets (knock on wood).
I've got the Fel-Pro cork gasket. What's the general consensus around here, should I use just the cork, should I use just FIPG like the FSM recommends, or should I use both?
I've got the Fel-Pro cork gasket. What's the general consensus around here, should I use just the cork, should I use just FIPG like the FSM recommends, or should I use both?
Last edited by betelnut; 01-15-2010 at 11:29 AM.
#2
FIPG only. Read up on the FSM and also search in here using cork and gasket as the terms, you'll find that once the cork dries up, usually within 3000 miles it'll leak like a sieve as it inevitably hardens and shrinks, causing the bolts to not be torqued right.
Factory FIPG is what should be there and nothing else.
Factory FIPG is what should be there and nothing else.
#4
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uhm..it can be hard..i can't remember if the oil pan can be dropped without doing anything else or not on the 3vz..on mine you can just by taking the steering apart on the driver side..(remove tie rod from spindle, then from pitman arm and let it "fall down") but i have a 4" bracket lift as well..
but you should only use FIPG to seal it up..no cork lol
but you should only use FIPG to seal it up..no cork lol
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Thanks, KelleyC. I'll use FIPG only.
What boggles me is that in another thread I read that Fel-Pro makes their gaskets very close to factory gaskets, to the point of following factory updates. If that's true, it makes no sense that Fel-Pro would make a cork gasket for an application where Toyota calls for FIPG only.
What boggles me is that in another thread I read that Fel-Pro makes their gaskets very close to factory gaskets, to the point of following factory updates. If that's true, it makes no sense that Fel-Pro would make a cork gasket for an application where Toyota calls for FIPG only.
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#10
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http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm
http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/85084.pdf
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194...dp/B000HBGI8K/
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82195...dp/B000HBGK7O/
Last edited by sb5walker; 01-14-2010 at 10:21 PM.
#11
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betelnut,
Please post some pictures once you have this done. I am going to do this eventually but I am not sure it will be easier than the valve cover gaskets. Those were not bad and I think for the oil pan you need to move the front diff and maybe push back the bellhousing.
Let us know how it goes!
Please post some pictures once you have this done. I am going to do this eventually but I am not sure it will be easier than the valve cover gaskets. Those were not bad and I think for the oil pan you need to move the front diff and maybe push back the bellhousing.
Let us know how it goes!
#12
Oops. Back in '98 they did, and that's what they sold me for the pan and it sure has worked well. I read somewhere that it was a Permatex product. Maybe this one?
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm
http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/85084.pdf
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194...dp/B000HBGI8K/
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82195...dp/B000HBGK7O/
http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...sket_Maker.htm
http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/85084.pdf
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82194...dp/B000HBGI8K/
http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82195...dp/B000HBGK7O/
#13
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PCE91V64x4,
Wife's truck is 2WD, automatic, so this may not apply to you. Another thread that might be relevant to you:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-hints-111958/
On the other hand, aside from not having a diff to drop, my wife's car might be similar.
- Remove the oil pan guard, 4x12mm bolts
- Drain the oil
- Remove the two brackets that attach the lower bellhousing to the engine, along with the metal shield over the bellhousing; 4 14mm bolts each
- Unbolt the oil pan and loosen it up; bunches of 10mm bolts, 2 10mm nuts
- Unbolt the steering idler from the frame; pulling it forward gives the extra 1/2" or so clearance needed to pull the pan; 3 17mm nuts and bolts
- Pull the pan
- Pull the oil pickup; 2 10mm bolts, 2 10mm nuts
- Pull the oil pan baffle; be careful not to bend this as you separate it from the block
- Clean all of the mating surfaces; a razor blade and wire brush worked well for me
- Degrease all of the mating surfaces; I first engine degreased the whole pan and baffle, then used carb cleaner on the mating surfaces to be sure they're extra clean
- Apply a 1/8" bead of FIPG all around the top mating surface of the baffle; install it
- Replace the oil pickup
- Apply a 1/8" bead of FIPG all around the mating surface of the oil pan; install it
- When bolting up the pan, don't over-torque the bolts!
- Replace bell housing shield and 2 brackets
- Re-mount steering idler
- Replace oil pan guard
- Fill it with oil
Wife's truck is 2WD, automatic, so this may not apply to you. Another thread that might be relevant to you:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...-hints-111958/
On the other hand, aside from not having a diff to drop, my wife's car might be similar.
- Remove the oil pan guard, 4x12mm bolts
- Drain the oil
- Remove the two brackets that attach the lower bellhousing to the engine, along with the metal shield over the bellhousing; 4 14mm bolts each
- Unbolt the oil pan and loosen it up; bunches of 10mm bolts, 2 10mm nuts
- Unbolt the steering idler from the frame; pulling it forward gives the extra 1/2" or so clearance needed to pull the pan; 3 17mm nuts and bolts
- Pull the pan
- Pull the oil pickup; 2 10mm bolts, 2 10mm nuts
- Pull the oil pan baffle; be careful not to bend this as you separate it from the block
- Clean all of the mating surfaces; a razor blade and wire brush worked well for me
- Degrease all of the mating surfaces; I first engine degreased the whole pan and baffle, then used carb cleaner on the mating surfaces to be sure they're extra clean
- Apply a 1/8" bead of FIPG all around the top mating surface of the baffle; install it
- Replace the oil pickup
- Apply a 1/8" bead of FIPG all around the mating surface of the oil pan; install it
- When bolting up the pan, don't over-torque the bolts!
- Replace bell housing shield and 2 brackets
- Re-mount steering idler
- Replace oil pan guard
- Fill it with oil
#14
I looked up all of the Toyota interchange part #s on the Permatex® ULTRA GREY® packaging and found one(of the 6) listed that was, in fact, sold as Toyota P/N 00295-00102 SEAL PACKING 102 (FIPG) until it was superseded by Toyota P/N 00295-00103 SEAL PACKING BLACK 102 (FIPG) and/or SEAL PACKING BLACK 103 (FIPG). And one other once sold as Toyota P/N 00295-01282 SEAL PACKING TRANSMISSION-3 (FIPG), until discontinued. Loctite® 5699™ Grey, Silicone Solutions SS-5699 Gray, MaxPro™ GREY OX™, and VERSACHEM® MEGA GREY all state they are interchangeable with Toyota P/N 00295-00102. THREE BOND 1215 is the other grey RTV that is interchangeable with most other brands of grey colored RTVs(used to also be a grey THREE BOND 1217G). But Permatex® Ultra Black® is also said to be interchangeable with Toyota P/Ns 00295-00102, 00295-01282, 00295-01281, 00001-01008(among others). Both Loctite® 5920™ Copper and Permatex® Ultra Copper® are also interchangeable with Toyota P/N 00001-01008.
Toyota P/N 00295-00102 SEAL PACKING 102 (FIPG)
Toyota P/N 08826-00080 SEAL PACKING BLACK 1280 (FIPG), or THREE BOND 1280
THREE BOND 1280
Both were superseded by Toyota P/N 00295-00103 SEAL PACKAGING 102 (FIPG)
And Toyota P/N 00295-00103 SEAL PACKING 103 (FIPG), or THREE BOND 1207B
THREE BOND 1207B
Here's the rest of what I've gathered regarding the Permatex® ULTRA GREY® part # and the 6 Seal Packing/FIPG part #'s I found in the various Toyota FSMs...
Part number: 08826-00090 SEAL PACKING RED 1281B (FIPG), or THREE BOND 1281B
Part number 08826-00090 was superseded by part number 00295-01281
Part Number: 00295-01281 SEAL PACKING 1281 (FIPG), or THREE BOND 1281
Part Number: 08826-00100 SEAL PACKING 1282B (FIPG), or THREE BOND 1282B
Part number: 00295-00102 SEAL PACKING 102 (FIPG)
Part number 00295-00102 was superseded by part number 00295-00103.
Part number: 08826-00080 SEAL PACKING BLACK 1280 (FIPG), or THREE BOND 1280
Part number 08826-00080 was superseded by part number 00295-00103.
Part Number: 00295-00103 SEAL PACKAGING 102 (FIPG) and/or SEAL PACKING 103 (FIPG), or THREE BOND 1207B
Part number 08826-00090 was superseded by part number 00295-01281
Part Number: 00295-01281 SEAL PACKING 1281 (FIPG), or THREE BOND 1281
Part Number: 08826-00100 SEAL PACKING 1282B (FIPG), or THREE BOND 1282B
Part number: 00295-00102 SEAL PACKING 102 (FIPG)
Part number 00295-00102 was superseded by part number 00295-00103.
Part number: 08826-00080 SEAL PACKING BLACK 1280 (FIPG), or THREE BOND 1280
Part number 08826-00080 was superseded by part number 00295-00103.
Part Number: 00295-00103 SEAL PACKAGING 102 (FIPG) and/or SEAL PACKING 103 (FIPG), or THREE BOND 1207B
THREE BOND 1281
Toyota P/N 08826-00100 SEAL PACKING 1282B (FIPG), or THREE BOND 1282B
Threebond 1282B
Yellow = old part #
Green = current part #
So there's still 2 black FIPGs for oil pans available from the factory under the same part number P/N 00295-00103 102 and/or 103, 1 kind of black for coolant applications P/N 08826-00100 1282B, and one kind of red for transmission/transaxle/transfer case applications P/N 00295-01281 1281.
AFAIK. Correct me where I'm wrong.
Toyota Adhesive & Sealant Cross Reference Chart
Proof from manufacturer publishings:
http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/85084.pdf
http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/81878.pdf
http://www.itwpf.com.au/permatex/pdfs/approvals/7.pdf
http://www.loctite.ph/php/content_data/LT4409_AAM.pdf
http://www.cyclo.com/system/images/T.../C-959_TDS.pdf
http://www.barnesdistribution.com/pd...cals_41_50.pdf
http://www.siliconesolutions.com/doc...SS-5699TDS.pdf
Last edited by MudHippy; 09-05-2012 at 08:11 AM.
#15
Cant I use ultra black it was designed for higher temp and oil resistance and seems generally better? What is the benefit of the ultra grey as opposed to using ultra black?
#16
Registered User
You can use whatever you want, lol. I recommend grey b/c that's what the dealer sold me in 1998 for the pan and it's still holding perfectly without any leaks, 120,000 miles and 13 years later.
#17
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if you need grey and high quality, get the mazda ones... I have a couple of tubes here and they are much tackier and thicker than the permatex crap... I haven't seen nissan or subaru use grey FIPG, they both use red... no experience from mitsu, honda, or suzuki... so mazda is a safe bet
the mazda gray FIPG is made by dow corning japan... it's expensive, but you can order it online from places such as onlinemazdaparts.com for a bit cheaper
mazda part number is 8527-77-739
the mazda gray FIPG is made by dow corning japan... it's expensive, but you can order it online from places such as onlinemazdaparts.com for a bit cheaper
mazda part number is 8527-77-739
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There is a steel baffle between the block & oil pan. BE VERY CARERFUL PULLING THE PAN or you'll bend it & play hell getting it straight. You'll have to cut the FIPG in place with something VERY thin to get the pan off. Good luck~
#20
On the question of which is better, maybe ULTRA BLACK®. Maybe neither. I used ULTRA COPPER® on mine. Which sounded better to me than both of them. No leaks yet(2+ years). It had a mix of red/orange, grey(not UG, wierd pale grey, never seen it before), and a little clear. Like the guy had 3 different color tubes, all mostly empty, and used 'em all up at once. Strangely, it never leaked for atleast 50k miles.
If you want to know what the benefits of any of them are for whichever application, see the manfacturer's documentation(TDS and/or MSDS) for them(Permatex® website).
Last edited by MudHippy; 11-20-2011 at 07:54 AM.