I got the 86 pick up on a trade deal running like it is.
Guy apparently blew old motor up and swapped this motor in and it's apparently from a 91-92. Truck will start most of the time if it sits and can keep running but has a miss. If you let off accelerator and try to idle it will die. When running it runs better when I'm higher revs the miss seems to clear up.When it dies it will slowly die idle gets rougher until it stalls almost sounds like starving for gas but it smells rich. After you run it a few times it will not start anymore.. I am getting a code 11 Everytime I check I have tried a known good tps already. I already fixed a few things. I found the 86 needs the O2 sensor where the new manifold didn't have the hole for it I'm guessing it had a cat and was down stream. I swapped manifold to correct manifold and installed O2 same issue. Found #1 injector was the new high impedance style from new motor. I swapped with 4 known good injectors and no difference. Replaced the one incorrect injector and pigtail and resealed intake and cleaned all grounds. Ohmed out my mass air ( I can't remember name of it right now lol ) it was in spec and can move flapper and fuel pump kicks on. Did not check fuel pressure as I can't find where to tap in and check but verified had some when cracking cold start injector line. Checked spark have spark even after it won't start when I run it long enough.

Sorry for the long story to read but would like some help to get this thing on the road for winter!

 

Welcome Casey!

I'd start by verifying the fuel filter, fuel pump/pressure, and vacuum leaks. What's currently on the motor for emissions? Have you checked compression?

 

Thank you
Yes sorry did compression check 185 across board. Where can I hook up for fuel pressure check no fitting unless I do something with banjo bolt?

 

I can't help you on that one. I have an '86 with a carburetor.

I had a similar situation on my 600RR trying to verify my fuel pressure but can't remember right now what I did. I'll post back up if it comes to me.

 

Well lucky you Tim! Lol thanks though

 

banjo bolt adapter:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post52312190

 

Thank you I'm going to see if I can make something like this

 

Always start with fixing codes!

You have a code 11, on a first gen 22re ECU this is the IDL not closed or AC on while in diagnostics mode..

Make sure the AC is off, bench test the throttle sensor then do the adjustment.

Untill this is done you can not set the base timing..

Without setting base timing you really shouldn't expect it to run as intended/designed.

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IF you have adjusted the tps and are certain IDL is closed at the tps sensor it's not reaching the ECU, so you need to start checking the plugs between the sensor and computer to see where it's getting lost.

(And of course that your AC button isn't depressed, or the AC amplifier hotwired or otherwise strange)

 

Wouldnt hurt to do another once over of all the sensors and important parts to verify its not a hodgepodge of gen 1 gen 2 stuff like the injector you found.

 

Can anyone point me towards a good schematic so I can check all my pins from tps to ECU got it in garage now weather been bad so I can get some work done on it again

 

You don't need them really, but Google will find them for you.., Just use the multi meter set to continuity mode. Clip one lead to one of the tps pins, drag the other lead across the ECU plug and listen for the tone. Note which one it is and move on to the next one with the same process. If you get all four great you know it's either the ECU or your tps adjustment process. If you don't find all four you know you have a broken wire or connection issue.

 

Going to try some more things today when I get home

 

Haven't had a chance to work on it last week. But I checked out harness my wires for tps ohmed out fine. Remove harness and checked all splices and looks good no corrosion
Checked tps and found pins 3 and 4 were open with throttle shut. Removed throttle body and adjusted tps so it reafs continuity with throttle shut then .35mm feeler gauge it reads ol. Ran truck and check engine lights out get a code 1 showing no codes. Truck will still start and can rev it up but has a miss but still dies shortly after. Verified fuel pressure is 35ish cranking.

 

Still not running if anyone can help. I found out the truck is running off the. Old start injector alone. Using a 12v bulb while cranking I get no injector ground. I have 12v on each injector. Checked wiring from distributor to ECU along with ignitor to ECU checks good. Just picked up a good ECU and coil/ignitor and swapped them with same issue. I don't know what else to check can anyone help out?

 

Crimps connecting ALL PIN 1's to ECU Pins 10 and 20 easily get corroded / get brittle and break. The wire runs through a rather inhospitable place.
ONLY THE INJECTOR WIRES BELONG IN THAT PLACE. I believe in order to facilitate assembly, not servicing, Toyota ran a bunch of wires through there that do not absolutely have to be there. (i.e, ECU temp sender, CSI Timer switch, temp gage sender, backup / 4WD switch wiring, starter solenoid control (coil) wire, ignitor power, etc.)
If you're gonna dig into that loom, I suggest rerouting all wires that do not absolutely have to be there along the fender near the wiper motor, instead.

Below is from 1988 22R-E, but should be same from 1986 to 1988.

 

Injector pulse width at idle is way to short for a 12v bulb to react to (something in the single digit milliseconds range of on time). At 750 rpm (750/60=12.5 revolutions per second, so three compression strokes per second and each compression stroke the ECU sends 1/4th of the required fuel and on and on the math gets smaller...) the filament just doesn't have time to heat up.

Try an LED instead these are able to react to pulses in the ms range.

Still he is dead on above about the factory splice being in a less than optimal place and not properly protected from the elements.

Spent $10 and 20min or $20 and get the right tool. Then verify #10/#20. Once you've verified the ECU is doing its part repair the injector harness there are a few if not many pictures of this repair floating around.. (Don't skimp on your harness tape, don't ever stretch electrical tape and finally use a good heat shrink tubing that has the heat activated adhesive.). This repair should last another 20-30 years even done poorly.

 

I've ripped my harness apart and checked my splices no corrosion what's so ever ohms out good

 

Well that was a bit hasty.. I will point out that resistance isn't always a perfect test all wiring will increase resistance with load and faulty connection will fall flat on its face due to load.

KOEO you can back probe the injector wires at the ECU and should get near battery voltage, since the injectors are switched ground.

Since you have the upper intake off you might aswell check the injectors pass current (ohms test), you can also try cleaning them. You'll find instructions for this here with google. In short you plumb up an aerosol can and pulse the injectors open with a small battery (from memory a nine volt battery is what's used)..

 

Sorry. But I've pulled injectors and actuated each and they fire fine spraying fuel. Have even tried 4 known good injectors. Have 12v on e10 and e 20 at ECU and will carry a load

 

Scrolling back through the thread here I'm reminded you have possible generation hodge podge and haven't addressed this.

Let's ignore you might have the wrong injector and resistor configuration...

The vast ignition system during cranking is controlled by the ignitor with no feedback from the ECU, after about 500 rpm the ECU takes over. This same (Ne) signal gets forwarded to the ecu which triggers the ECU to fire the injectors. (This is also a fast low power signal your incandescent test light or multimeter aren't going to register)

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It's not clear how you've deduced the injectors aren't firing. (You can hear them with a stethoscope.)

Don't recall you testing the fuel pump system either..


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Might be time for a nice thorough summary of what you have tested and the results.