I spent a few days being confused with all the overwhelming supply of information on the proportioning valve. I wanted to just buy another one, but I can not nail down the part number for the 1994 4runner. I go search around and the valve for every other truck is like $28.00 and only for 1995 is $168. I look at the aftermarket part in the picture and it looks the same as the one on my 95. In a fit of frustration, I just ordered it to see what is going to show up.

I went on different "oem toyota parts" website from google, and they appear to be giving me conflicting part #'s at best, then ask me about vzn codes or body codes or something I have no idea how to check or understand what it wants. Does anyone else know the part number exactly for this, or how I can look it up ?

 

1995? 1994? Yes, it does make a difference, so you ought to sit down and first figure out what vehicle you're trying to buy a part for.

"... then ask me about vzn codes ...?" Do you not know your vzn code either? It's part of your VIN; just read it. (You DO know what a "Vehicle Identification Number" is, don't you?)

Here's a list of the proportioning valves for a 1994: https://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/pro...=proportioning

 

I typed in my VIN, and for reasons unknown (THIS TIME), it returned ONE option instead of 12. If I am reading it right, says "47910-35290" is the valve assembly. I searched a lot of sites and tried to find a replacement one, and can't find that for under $165. The prop valves for the hilux pickup truck is $28.00 47910-26040 . I took a look at the pictures and have to say, if it was in the junk yard - anyone I know would probably pull that off and try and see if it works (if that was the only thing to pull from).

 

Why are you replacing the proportioning valve? That's not really a common part to replace. What type of mechanical failure are you dealing with?

 

tell me your VIN and ill tell you what your correct proportioning valve part# is, and whether its available. Doubtful that it is the valve body itself that is causing issues though.

 

"it"? Not that you care, but you do realize no one here is going to be able to help you if you don't even tell us where you're shopping.

That part is for an 86-87 4runner (HiLux in other parts of the world). The list price is $268.36, so your $28 is either a really good deal, or for a used after-market stolen part. But at least according to Toyota, it won't help you anyway. But you may find out differently; do let us know.

Last, as others have pointed out, that's not a part one often replaces. May I assume you have a bad leak?

 

Many part numbers probably because there are many parts to a complete assembly like bushings, rubber boots, and etc. There are some used complete assemblies on Ebay that include everything for around $100.

Mine was leaking pretty good on a 2wd truck. The rubber boot covering the valve was letting water in, and I guess over time caused the leak because of rust.

If it goes bad again. I will install an adjustable for $50, and be done with it.

 

The rear brakes do not engage. I checked inside there after 8,000 miles and the parts inside the drum are as immaculate as when they were installed and replaced, including the brake cylinders. Front calipers also replaced, along with the master cylinder. Vacuum check OK on the brake booster. If anyone else can help me figure out WHAT possibly would cause the rear brakes to NOT work, and my peddle go way down to the floor while I rely only on my front brakes - OTHER than the rear prop valve, please do so.

My truck VIN: JT3VN39WXS0201105

Yes, I am looking up an aftermarket replacement part for the proportioning valve. I am not willing to spend $260 or $160 for a dealer Toyota OEM load-sensing valve. I have compared pictures of the 4runner valve and the one from the hilux, and do not find any exterior obvious differences. There could possibly be the size of the threaded fittings could be different, I am prepared to deal with that. The only variance remaining is the size of the bore in the cylinder for the valve - which would offset the value of a pressure test if anyone was actually willing to put all the gauges where they needed to go and have 2 other people help them read the gauges and pump the brakes at the same time.

I was just posting here to see if anyone else dealt with this unusual problem, since I can pretty much find an aftermarket prop valve for every other make and model year of truck for under $40, except ONLY the one I own in the specific make model year combo starts at $170 for a used pull at a online junkyard.

 

Does the e-brake work?

Drum brakes have to be adjusted to work properly.

 

Yes. I took off the back wheels to hit the adjuster up. e-brake will move the drums.

 

Ok. The correct part # for your Proportioning Valve (Valve BODY that is, the spring and boot...etc come seperate) is: 47910-35290 See picture below, PNC: 47910 Highlighted, you can see it also comes with the bleeder screw.


There are two available in california and they are stupid expensive.

If your Prop valve really is screwed though, I would just put in a universal adjustable one: https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...temno=260-8419

 

Thank you for confirming the part number, and the ridiculous cost. I already ordered the pickup-truck prop valve, it's on it's way. When it gets here I can physically compare it to the one on my 4runner. I can just make this a manual valve by rigging something up to it, if the existing spring lever mechanism does not work out. I forgot to mention, I have a 4.5" lift with 33x12.5" tires, and there is an extension plate on the prop valve that was installed with the lift. At this point I am not looking to preserve and restore an authentic antique truck for the purpose of a mecum auction, I just want a filthy wood / mud 4x4 to operate like the tank that it looks like.

 

I here you, again I would just go with an adjustable valve in that case, as it simplifies the entire situation and gives you control of the rear bias, while only costing about 30 bucks.

 

I agree - the manual prop valve is probably the way to go. If I go that route, I want to re-route the lines to the front under the hood, where it should be - instead of back and fourth to the rear of the truck getting blasted by mud and filth. If the Hilux matches up right away, I can just swap it and see what happens without procrastinating more with gathering tubes, fittings, flair & bend tools.

 

Ok, the prop valve arrived today. I looked at it, and it matches the pictures I examined online. I found the booby-trap surprise. Below is a picture (I believe) of the prop valve mounted in the pickup truck (or 1989 4runner). As you can see, the SPRING part of the valve is pointed at an angle. There are these plastic guides that the spring will seat in, to push up against the piston.

On the 1995 4runner, my guide prongs are facing FORWARD. This is the difference between the $28.00 aftermarket part for a 1989 4runner prop valve (47910 26040), and the 1995 4runner prop valve @ $280.00 (47910-35290)




Here is a picture of the prop valve that was delivered to me. I removed the snap-ring, to reveal the plastic prong piece that was mounted at an angle. It is clearly obvious that I can mount the plastic prongs any direction I wish, and put the snap-ring back in place.

47910 26040 proportioning valve from 1989 4runner (or hilux pickup) with snap ring removed, and plastic guide prong separated.

 

Who sells aftermarket proportioning valves?

 

https://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylind...CylinderValves

 

Thanks snippits, I thougt or hoped they were referring to stock replacement type valves.

 

I'm pretty sure the one Erich Stein got was "aftermarket." Here's one that claims to fit his '95: https://www.ebay.com/itm/BRAKE-LOAD-...0/253857401430 . It claims to be "unbranded," which is as close to "aftermarket" as you're going to get.

Note that Toyota says it (this part number) won't fit, the eBay seller says it will, and most importantly, Erich says all you have to do is rotate the mounting fork.

That's why you love YotaTech.

 

after lifting my 94, adding 35's and a bunch of additional weight I was having a challenging time getting my rear brakes dialed in.
decided to just make an adjustable bracket and for the LSPV so it's biased towards the rear
braking is nice and short. ideally the previously mentioned adjustable proportional valve would be the correct way to go