I'am going to replace my front rotors with crossdrilled Brembo rotors and was wondering if I need to bleed the rear brakes too??

 

Might as well. It's probably been posted around here, but do them in the following order, furthest from the master cylinder to closest: RR, LR, RF, LF. I've had good luck with Castrol Synthetic brake fluid (DOT 4), high wet/dry boiling points and stays fresh for longer than most. Of course no DOT 5 allowed. A quart will be more than enough, cost ~$5, available everywhere.

 

Thanks!

 

You're welcome! I should've added that I'm talking about a complete system flush, not just bleeding. It'll take a partner pumping the pedal and you bleeding about 15-20 cycles on the RR before the fresh stuff appears. Fewer cycles with each wheel closer to the MC. If any original is left behind, no worries, Castrol is compatible. Still, best to completely flush all the old fluid out. BTW, those Brembos sound awesome!

 

Remember to use a block of wood under the pedal to match the normal stroke the pedal so it doesn't go to the floor. This will protect the seal on the master cylinder from possibly getting damaged during the bleeding process. I didn't do it on mine and now they feel a bit squishier (may be all in my head, but still take the precaution). If you have $50 then get a pressure bleeder.....next time I will be using one of those instead.

 

You guys talked me into it....I am going to order a Motive Power Bleeder for $49 after the tax refund comes in. I have never flushed my brake lines on any of my vehicles...but now I know how important that is. Good stuff on the boards here.

 

If your gonna bleed the brakes, don't forget to bleed the LSPV last.

The correct order for bleeding is
RR, LR, RF, LF, LSPV

On another note, if your only changin rotors, why you bleeding??

All you should have to do is open the brake reservoir cap, push the pistons back in the calipers, install new rotors and pads, button everything up, pump pedal, start truck and pump pedal, test drive. Shouldn't need to bleed the brakes unless your changing calipers. In that case, yah, definately bleed the rears as well as the LSPV but there shouldn't be a need to bleed unless you open that sytem to atmosphere anywhere other than the reservoir cap.

The Motive Products Power Bleeder is nice to use but if you don't have one or can't afford one, just gravity bleed. Open the fittings on the brakes and fill the reserviour letting the fluid drain and drip out of the brakes. Once it dripping from all four, close off the fitting and bleed the LSPV with pedal pushes. Take a while but it's easy and not as messy as conventional bleeding.
When gravity bleeding, it's nice to have tubing attached to the brake fittings so you can catch the drips in an old soup can or somethin'.

Happy Moddin'

 

I've heard that the correct order for 3rd generation 4Runners is:

Rear Driver, Rear Passenger, Front Passenger, and Front Driver. Is this not correct?

Also what is "LSPV"?

 

That is the order for the Tacoma but to be 100% sure, I'd have to look at a 3rd gens rear axle. Toyotas rear soft brake line comes down from the LSPV (load sensing proportioning valve aka BPV brake proportioning valve) to one side of the axle or the other, not on top of the diff. On my runner it comes down to the passenger side so your order would be correct. If the 3rd gen 4runners line comes down to the passenger side of the diff. Your order would be correct. On the Tacoma though, it drops to the drivers side so that's when the original order I posted would be correct.
The whole point of the bleeding order to any specific vehicle is "from farthest to nearest".
The LSPV os attached to the inner frame rail just above the axle. It has hard lines coming in and a soft line going down. It also has an arm that attaches to the axle and senses the squat and adjust more or less rear braking depending on your load. Crawl under there and check it out. You'll see how it works. On mine, the arm is hacked off and threaded so I can manually adjust it. The arm limited axle droop so it had to go.