When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I bought my 4runner a couple weeks ago and when i bought it the PO said the heat didn't work. Well the temperature dipped down the past few days and the drive to work was less than Ideal so I decided to start running it down. I have read that the control valve mounted on the firewall is sometimes a failure point so that's where i started. sure enough not only was it full of junk it was also frozen shut. I proceded to flush the heater core system and check for leaks and while what I flushed out was terrible the system didn't have any leaks. while I was in the area I decided to flush the entire cooling system which was equally scaly....
Old heater control situation
But then what to do about my faulty control valve? A used one could be had on ebay for around $50 and a new one for $100+, but there had to be a more immediate solution cause its FRIGGIN COLD! A quick trip to the local Hardware store and $13.46 later I'm back living the warm life. since the PO eliminated the rear heater anyway i went ahead and eliminated all the extra pieces, the extra weight savings should net me a good .000000001 in the 1/4.
While this solution is semi-temp I will probably do something very similar as a permanent fix. A 12v electronic
(click the link) can be had on amazon for about $12 dollars and brass one with VITON internals for about $30 and that would wire to a simple relay and switch in the cab. But I do like the fail safeness of a manual valve and the temperature in my area doesn't fluctuate drastically so I'm assuming ill open this valve in October and close it in March. I did find that i can still regulate the temperature with the slider in the cab even though the valve is full open open i can still mix the warm heater air with cool outside air so its not an all on or all off thing which is nice.
Git'er done!
Your post makes me realize I should go back and test mine to see if it's opening fully. I have heat, but not as much as I think i deserve...hehe.
Git'er done!
Your post makes me realize I should go back and test mine to see if it's opening fully. I have heat, but not as much as I think i deserve...hehe.
Yup. After it gets cold and I am thinking my rad is clooged, I remember that the valve is probably where I left it at start of summer.
Ever. Single. Year.
Need to do what OP did. Nice idea.
Yeh you probably could I just need a NOW fix. The only thing I dont see a easy way to mount it, obviously anythings possible but without a hard mount the cable is useless.
Why don't you just put a stock valve in and do it right? You can probably pick one up at your salvage yard for cheap. This way it works the way it was intended. Just saying
Why don't you just put a stock valve in and do it right? You can probably pick one up at your salvage yard for cheap. This way it works the way it was intended. Just saying
I will put a lot of JY parts on my vehicle but a known failure valve isn’t one of them. Again I needed a right now fix.
...While this solution is semi-temp I will probably do something very similar as a permanent fix. A 12v electronic control valve (click the link) can be had on amazon for about $12 dollars and brass one with VITON internals for about $30 and that would wire to a simple relay and switch in the cab. ....
Originally Posted by roughridn_sob
I will put a lot of JY parts on my vehicle but a known failure valve isn’t one of them. ...
Just so you know, a NEW (aftermarket Metrix) control valve can be had for $36 at RockAuto. Or eBay coughs one up for half that. https://www.ebay.com/i/323507628877
You can cobble together something with electric valves, relays, switches and so on, but it doesn't look like you'll save any money.
Dec 11, 2018 | 10:34 AM
Fixed my "NO HEAT" situation...bad control valve
