Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum and I don't know if this is the correct thread to post on but here we go. I have an 86 pickup that won't start and I don't know what else to do. This all started after I installed an aftermarket tach. The truck does one click with each turn of the key. I've changed the starter in which it still had the same symptoms. Then I changed the battery and it started. I drive it around for a while and it was fine until a couple of days later when it started exhibiting the same symptoms again. I bought a battery charger/ engine starter and still nothing. What should I do next?

 

Have you tried disconnecting the tach wiring?

 

Just the lighting wires, I'm going to disconnect it completely next. I don't see how the tack would draw that much power from the battery, but it just might do the trick.

 

Everything on the tach is disconnected minus the grounding wire and I have it charging right now.

 

1) All was good before the tach was installed,
2) The tach was installed,
3) Problem began.

What did you connect each wire to - specifically? Pictures can = 100 words.

 

grounding wire is connected to the chassis where the coil ignitor is
The power cable splicing to where the SR5 cluster connector was.
The lighting wires were connected through the fuse box on the lower 15 amp and the left 20 amp

 

I watched a video on YouTube on how to connect the tach.

 

If you have an SR5 it should have a tach. If not your pic does not show or describe exactly which wire the signal pickup is coming from.

You wrote: "The lighting wires were connected through the fuse box on the lower 15 amp and the left 20 amp"
That is written like your taking power from 2 hot sources?????

 

I literally just copied what the guy did on the video. I don't have an SR5, the guy on the video said it was a cluster connector for an SR5 option I guess. It's a green connector that wasn't connected to anything just like the one in the picture, so I cut it off and spliced my power wire to. Not really sure to be honest. And I literally just wrapped the wire around on end of the fuses and plugged them back in. It was working for a couple days then ceased to start. The guy in the video was attaching his to an 83 pickup but it looked similar to what I have.

 

Hmmm. Well, I think we can say you are one lucky Toyota owner. The usual result of that sort of work is a fire.

A tach (even badly installed) usually has nothing to do with turning the starter. Somehow you've blown a fuse, broken a wire, or run down the battery. To figure out which, put your multimeter on the battery posts. Should be about 12.6v; if less than 12.1 the battery is discharged. (Charge it.) Have someone turn the key while you watch the voltmeter. If the battery drops by 0.4v or more, and all you get is a click, you have a bad battery. Take it to an autoparts store; they'll test it for free with a "carbon pile" tester. Move the multimeter leads to the battery clamps and repeat. NOW if you get a 0.4v drop, your battery clamps are loose. Just keep working TOWARD the starter. If you get battery voltage to ground on the big wire to the starter, AND about 11v to ground on the small wire with the key turned, then AND ONLY THEN you can consider replacing the starter.

 

First, if you don't want your truck, and/or house, to burn down, if you have done ANY other wiring as you described before undo it and make proper connections.
just wrapped the wire around on end and cut it off and spliced my power wire are neither good or safe connections

Second, get and install a fire extinguisher in your truck. Actually ATTACH it, with hardware - not tape, to something made of metal.

Third, based on what I've read here, a 1st Gen and an 86 are not very similar. Note that there are different sections here for both.

The "green connector that wasn't connected to anything" HAD a spade type connector inside - cutting it off was a BAD idea.

 

Like L5Wolves says ^^^.
And please put arrows on your pictures. There are too many parts in them we could not see what you're talking about.

 

Thanks for all the feedback guys, didn't think I ˟˟˟˟ed up that bad. I removed the tach already and note taken, I'll stop getting bad ideas from YouTube. I'll let y'all know the results.

 

Don't blindly replace parts. We'll help u verify which are really bad. Keep it as simple as possible. That's the reason why we have first-gens.
Was that video for ur year-model truck? Next time u have a question, please put us at ur vehicle. Share docs for what u r working with. Pls see signature.

 

So I'm not sure if this fuse has anything to do with the vehicle starting but the 80 amp fuse looks corroded, so that would be my next step of something to change, what do you guys think? I'll post pics soon

 

I haven't heard that you have made any measurements with a multimeter. (Don't have a multimeter? Absolutely no excuse for that! https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-63604.html)

Replacing parts that just "look corroded" will bankrupt you pretty quickly. All electrical parts can be easily tested first.

 

FIRST, read what Scope and RAD4 have written here. Second fill out your signature with your vehicle info otherwise we are guessing from THOUSANDS of miles away. Third, pictures ARE worth a thousand words.

Next, you may have blown the fusible link which you should test. So back to Scope's response.

 

I have a multimeter, just throwing out an idea. There's continuity in the 80A just thought it wouldn't hurt to change it since it's corroded. I'll start with the steps y'all suggested.

 

Also where do I fill out my signature.

 

Aside from fsm and paperbacks, I go here and other reputable sites. YouTube for simple demos but they will never replace a proper step by step for a particular model/engine.

Edit profile and look for a signature editing link on the left side somewhere. Might need to click around within your member profie

I see a trend with a lot of new folks going on here despite the over-abundance of social media. Just more proof that sites like this will not be phased out.

Welcome to Yotatech!