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Repairing corrosion in engine block coolant passages?
hi guys,
What do you think about those coolant holes corroded? To me, it will not last long after the rebuild. I can imagine the coolant leaking out of the side already.
I wonder if I could patch the wear with cold weld or epoxy (or with something else, I need your help) and sand it back to the right shape.
How would you fix it up? (I mean old school way, I don’t want to hear put it in the bin or give it to a machine shop).
I am an experimented mechanic, it was very traumatic. It turned me into a Manic Mechanic.
My opinion on this is that any attempt to repair this would be a waste of your time, Gookumpucky like JB weld would not last, welding cast iron is not recommended and tricky at best, this would also require a machine shop to resurface after adding metal back to that spot with a welder and it would likely crack the block anyway.
I know you don't want to hear it, but I would turn this into an anchor or a flower pot
How many miles on this engine and truck? Help us help you. Put your vehicle info in your signature lines so we don't have to guess and ask about that stuff.
We also don't know your location so we can't tell if you live where Toyota engines/parts are plentiful.
There are block welders who can fix that but it probably won't be cheap.
It is a 91 3vze auto. 300k on it.
Im leaving in Australia and it is pretty hard to get parts. I already spent a bit of money in it such as new suspension, front auto locker, new tyres, snorkel, roof rack, awning...
I would keep it as a Toy to play around but I wouldn’t invest to much money in it. Parts are super expensive in Australia too.
I thought maybe making some sleeves and filling gaps around with jb weld. I’m sure there is a solution for it!
So this is just an out there idea based on something we had to do for a particular race motor. O-ring - but in your case oval ring.
O rings are used to seal compression in the combustion chamber. But IF a grove could be cut around those water passages maybe it could save that block.
Probably not cheap either, if you're sure it's going to leak another block is needed.
Also, how deep is the chip? Can the block be shaved and remain within tolerances?
I thought Toyota parts would be plentiful in OZ. Are you not near any big city?
keep in mind if you try JB weld that it doesn't expand and contract the same as cast iron, so after a heat cycle or two it will pop off of the surface.
you mentioned a sleeve, I have only heard of sleeving cylinders, which requires a machine shop and would not fix this issue.
Your cheapest alternative is to find another rebuildable block to use. if you have already spent money on machine work for this block I would say it was wasted, sorry.
Ha! Never, I will fix it up! Here in Australia block are expensive. I found that mig or tig combined to a cold welding technique would be the best bet. It would be similar that on the photos but on the block.
The prep Welded Finished
Come on guys! We are on yotatech forum, the best of the best. Here people do SAS, turbocharging, welding blocks splited in half, changing wagons into pickup etc... don’t tell me you are afraid of a little scratch on the top please!
You went from talking about the block, to showing pictures of the head welded, which one are you really asking about? Two different materials = two different welding techniques.
Ha! Never, I will fix it up! Here in Australia block are expensive. I found that mig or tig combined to a cold welding technique would be the best bet. It would be similar that on the photos but on the block.
The prep Welded Finished
Come on guys! We are on yotatech forum, the best of the best. Here people do SAS, turbocharging, welding blocks splited in half, changing wagons into pickup etc... don’t tell me you are afraid of a little scratch on the top please!
Originally Posted by jakey poo
You went from talking about the block, to showing pictures of the head welded, which one are you really asking about? Two different materials = two different welding techniques.
^^^ When you first started this (and the other identical thread) you mentioned not wanting to take it to a machine shop or dump a lot of money on it, guess what, if you weld it you will need a machine shop. and what Jakey said, your pictures are of aluminum heads, they don't crack like cast iron when you weld them. All we can do is try to be the voice of reason and tell you what our opinion is from what information you give us, and it seems the general consensus is that you need to throw a bag of money at it no matter which way you go. Good luck.
Thanks for rename the topic more pertinent👍
Also, Sorry for the confusion with the heads photos. It is screenshots from internet to show the welding process to fix coolant passage corroded. Did you ever heard about cold welding with a mig on cast iron? A mate could borrow me the machine, I thought I could do it myself after learning properly how to do.
Jun 25, 2018 | 03:39 AM
