Looking for cross section and inner or outer diameters for O ring used on the heater/coolant line under intake retained by two bolts. R11 O ring (~14mm i.d. X 2.5mm c,s.) looks close and holds a vacuum, thought I would ask before bolting it in. Has anyone measured factory or aftermarket units?

Found heater core O ring sizes in search, but nothing on the O ring used on hard line under intake.

Thanks.

 

Seems you are in the process of replacing one. Which makes you the best source of information. Measure the tube. Look for recesses the spring seats into. Post images, and lots of them (while I know what your are looking at and for others might not)..

It's not very size critical, from my experience, if it fits over the tubing and you don't run out of bolt length it will be fine.

Or you can locate it in the parts diagrams order one from Toyota and measure it "for prosperity"..

 

Thanks. If I had Access to O ring I wouldn't have had to ask for dimensions? Haha.

Thought someone out there would have Toyota unit (preferably) or aftermarket sitting in kit they could get dimensions from. Manifold still on truck, pics wouldn't show much. trying to get it back together before it snows/rains.

Tube diameter=17mm. R11 O ring I am considering using has ID of 14mm. So cross section will get a bit smaller but not much.

Bore outside diameter O ring sits in=24mm. (Must not come into play as O ring that came out had nowhere near that OD)

Counter bore depth=approx 1.8mm. (This gives 28% crush on O ring versus recommended 10%)

Maybe I need smaller ID O ring to reduce cross section and crush? That's why I posted question here looking for Toyota or aftermarket O ring dimensions.


If I find proper info will definitely post it here "for prosperity".. Haha.

 

First attempt leaked, bought correct part from stealership. Don't think leak was caused by first O ring being wrong size.

Toyota part #96711-24017

OD=21.56mm
ID=16.75mm
Axial cross section 2.44mm
Radial cross section harder to measure but very close to 2.44mm

Measured, turned 180, re measured multiple times. Math doesn't quite add up, measured dimensions not exactly same as any manufacturer posted specs. Production tolerances, flash from mold etc? Fortunately this application not exactly space shuttle.

 

I got an o-ring kit from Harbor freight (metric not SAE). I don't recall which size I used at this point, but I found it through trial and error and it hasn't leaked a drop of coolant. You might be putting too much thought into this.

A side benefit is that I have almost every o-ring I'll ever need.

 

Thanks. I bought a large metric kit as well. From about 3mm to 52mm on sale for about $5 more than I paid for oneToyota O ring. Not just price, now I don't have to drop everything to pick up one from dealer.

 

Put original R11 O ring that leaked first attempt back in and works so far. Suggest running tap and die on threads. A lot easier to feel when it bottoms, and spec is only 9 foot pounds.

 

Geez.... you are right it is an O-ring, I just used some cut gasket material and goop without issue for years. You learn something new everyday.

 

^^Think I should have just went silicone. Bought fancy graphite rear plate gasket and it leaked. Went Hi Temp silicone no gasket and works fine.

 

I've had really good luck getting that plate to seal with the fancy shiny gasket.

I'm guessing you scraped both surfaces perfectly flat and wiped with acetone?

Silicone works fine, of course I'm just surprised that the gasket didn't hold up.

 

There was a slow drip from the top center bolt of plate. Think I will try gasket again. Kind of paranoid silicone may granulate and develop leak from heat of egr over time like it did on my exhaust. I sanded plate on belt sander, so definitely flat with no voids. Block sanded head mating surface and used brakleen. Last person used rubber cement or shellac. It was a pain to scrape and sand head with no room and a mirror. At least I know there is no hidden flaw in plate now.

Two of the bolts had larger washer. Any thoughts on that?

 

I'm not a huge fan of sanding parts, but others do it with good results and I sure don't know everything about building engines.

There are 2 different styles of bolts for that plate with a different torque spec for each type, but I no longer remember the fine details of it.

 

Cross sanding a flat plate like the egr cover is very safe, untill you remove touch material that it needs a shorter fastener or weaken it structurally.

Torque spec are based on the bolt size and material you are afixing them too..

Guess it was time for my "learn something new everyday", I didn't know there were two styles of EGR coolant plates I want more details now.

 

I looked up some reference material just to make sure I remembered at all what I'm talking about, and turns out I was only half-wrong! The 2 bolts with larger washers are for the lower 2 bolt holes, but they all get evenly torqued to 13 ft/lbs.

Thanks for the d-i-y parts-sanding info btw. Sometimes I get spooked when machining parts by hand, but the shop that does work for me is probably a lot less scientific about it than I think they are.

Rather than 2 different styles of plate I just meant 2 different types of bolts (small washer and large washer).

But now that you mention it, there are aluminum egr cooler plates that were installled on at least some 22re-equipped Celica's. Supposedly it was a weight-saving performance upgrade (but isn't that plate only a couple pounds?). A while back a Celica guy had one listed on eBay. I almost wanted it, but not for $20.

 

Good to know washered bolts go on bottom. Where did you find that info? Seems to be a lack of info on egr cooler plate in TSM, Haynes, Clymer etc. Torque spec I saw said 6-9 foot pounds for 6mm bolt, I guess the grade comes into play. No idea how to get a torque wrench in there haha.

They can resurface cylinder heads on belt sander, prefer machined myself. I did put exhaust manifold on my belt sander and it turned out perfect.

I read automatic and standard supposedly use different egr cooler plates, haven't seen them side by side. The flat plate is egr block off/delete. LC Engineering and others sell them. How hard could it be to drill 5 holes in flat plate using old plate for guide?

 

Anybody know the gates/dayco part#s for those hoses?

 

I got the bolt install diagram from 22reperformance when I bought new bolts from them, I think it's online as well. An image search should bring it up.

I'm certain those bolts are 8mm. 6mm are used for the fan pulley and most of the water pump bolts.

Removing the cylinder head or pulling the engine is the only way I know to use a torque wrench. Not worth so much trouble for this little job. I'm not envious of you having to replace the gasket with the plate right up against the firewall. Good luck.

 

Thanks for info. You're right on 8mm. Was just coming on to edit. I had under intake coolant line bolts on the brain.

The rear head plate is not bad at all on my 85. Maybe worse for other years? I thought that hard line under intake was a lot worse. I hate that stupid fuel filter haha.

 

Rockauto has some of them. I remember that 87245E was oddball. If that is hose you need try searching with the part number. Will probably show up on ebay or one of the Toyota specialist sites.