I have a 1992 Toyota Pickup 22re EFI 5 spd and I had dropped the gas tank to do some welding. I am putting the gas tank back up and I tried starting it and it didnt seem like the fuel pump was working. I had wired it up as it usually should go yellow with red stripe and yellow with blue stripe and the brown wire. The sensor i plugged back up but i noticed one of the wires tore, is this just a sensor for the gas gauge or is this my problem? this is being a real pain in the ass and id rlly need some advice right now.

 

The fuel pump is electric. You have an electrical problem. If you could see the electrons, you wouldn't need a multimeter. But they're just too darned small!

There is just no excuse to not have a multimeter.. https://www.harborfreight.com/7-func...ter-90899.html

First, Y-R, Y-L and Br are all wires for the fuel sender. They have nothing to do with the fuel pump. So I guess I should ask: Did you even hook up the fuel pump? (L and W-B).

START at the diagnostic connector. With key-on, do you get 12v at B+? If you jumper B+ to FP, does the fuel pump run? With the jumper in, do you get 12v to ground at the L (blue) wire at the fuel pump?

 

I did the test by the fuse panel and yes it gets power but not quite 12 volts, i also did check the wires by the tank but the red wire gets power not the blue for some reason?? And turning the key i dont hear it priming it

 

"the" test? "it" gets power? "not quite" 12v?
First, while I have meters that measure power, your meter doesn't. You want to measure voltage, which is not (at all) the same. I assume that you measured the voltage to ground at B+, with key-on but NOT key-STArt, and got some undisclosed voltage less than 12.0. (Think how much faster this dialog would be if I didn't have to guess at what you did.) Put your meter on your battery terminals as a sanity check. You should get about 12.6v (temperature dependent). If it is under 12v AT ALL then your battery is dead. If it's 12.3 or greater, you have a low battery, but enough for these tests.

If you have a charged battery but get less than 12v on B+, you may have a bad (high-resistance) EFI relay.

"red" wire? Before, you said you had three wires: Y-R, Y-L and Br. Now you have a red one?

When you checked the blue wire (for voltage to ground), did you have key-on AND the jumper in as I described? Or are you trying to test something else?

When you say you didn't hear "it" priming, I'm guessing you're not talking about the red wire, but the fuel pump. If so, that's good, the pump is always under fuel and never needs to be primed. If you mean you didn't hear the pump running when you turned the key to ON, that's also good. It's not supposed to run with key-on.

The purpose of using the jumper is to force the pump to run with key-on. If you have 12.3v or more on B+ (with key-on), and you don't get 12v on the blue wire with the jumper in, you have a wiring problem.

 

Yes i meant to say yellow- blue and yellow- red and the yellow- red is the one that gets power for some reason. and I checked with the key on run but the battery is on about half 12.3v. I am kind of clueless about the jumper, do u have a wiring diagram or pic of doing it?

Srry im new to all of this, i dont have these kind of problems on my 76 chevy w a mechanical fuel pump, no wires involved

 

Both Y-L and Y-R will have about 12v on them (with key-on) THROUGH the combination meter (when disconnected). They are for the fuel gauge, and have nothing to do with the fuel pump. So to avoid getting ahead of ourselves, DID you re-connect the fuel pump? (L and W-B)

You can learn a lot by using the search function on YotaTech. Pretty much twice a week someone explains how the fuel pump is powered. So here it is again.

The fuel pump is powered by 12v on the L wire (W-B is ground). But you don't want the fuel pump to run with just key-on; if a fuel line breaks in an accident, you want the fuel pump to turn off instantly. So the L line gets its current through the Circuit Opening Relay (COR). The circuit opening relay is closed with key to STArt (not just run), and once the engine starts sucking air a switch in the Vane Air Flow meter (VAF) closes and holds the COR closed (when the engine stops sucking air, the switch opens, the COR opens, the pump stops).

To TEST the VAF-COR circuit, you can put a jumper (traditionally, a paper clip) between B+ and FP on the diagnostic port. B+ gets 12v through the EFI relay with key-on, FP then just bypasses the COR and powers the pump directly.

Have you found the diagnostic port?

Is your battery 12.3v? Or "half 12.3v"? 12.3 is pretty low; it will work for these tests, but might not be enough to crank the engine. Think about finding your battery charger.

 

Yeah, i didnt recall removing any other wires than the three, and i actually dont even see a white wire or nothing. My whole pump/sending unit is covered with some wierd silicone sealant and its hard to see if there were any wires

 

other than that i cant find any other wires

 

The question mark (?) At the end of a sentence means you (need to)/(should) provide an answer.

Here is an example of the difference.

Did you plug the doohicky?
You should plug the doohicky.

 

Hmm. I wonder if you've just got things completely backward?

The manual for the '93 shows that the sending unit bolts into one end of the tank, and pump assembly bolts in to a port at the other end of the tank. Two separate units, well separated. You can't confuse the two; the pump assembly has three tubes (and a cable), the sending unit only has a cable. http://web.archive.org/web/200605091...32fueltank.pdf Each has its own plug. The sending unit has the Y-R, Y-L and Br wires. The (completely separate) pump plug has the L and W-B wires. Could the pump unit be the one with the torn wire that you're calling a "sensor"?

So take a look near where the fuel lines connect to the tank. You'll find the plug for the fuel pump. Until it's plugged in, you're not going to get too far. (And if one of the wires is broken, that's probably not good.)

 

Yep thats why! the "sensor" haha XD. Yea the only power wire on it clips in to another one and it kind of looks like a sensor connection, one of the two wires is torn. and now that you mention it,i think they were blue and white. wow sometimes this is an example of shouldve taken more time to look at it haha but i dont like being in that cold for too long