Truck starts but afternoon it warms up and turned off it doesn't want to start up
#1
89 toyota truck starts up after sitting all night and I drive 30 min to work and I go into work and tuck sets for 10-xxx minutes the tuck doesn't want to start up( almost like it starved for fuel). Eventually starts up but then runs super rough, sputter and hard to hold idle etc.
also noticed when it gets wet out or humidity here in NC is high the truck doesn't like to idle and acts like it's almost missing on a cylinder or something .
months ago I replaced my fuel pump, just did the spark plugs, also got rid of the smog stuff and capped the lines etc and seemed to ru. Good just idles low but overall good little truck...
advice pleaee
also noticed when it gets wet out or humidity here in NC is high the truck doesn't like to idle and acts like it's almost missing on a cylinder or something .
months ago I replaced my fuel pump, just did the spark plugs, also got rid of the smog stuff and capped the lines etc and seemed to ru. Good just idles low but overall good little truck...
advice pleaee
#2
Good just idles low]
89 toyota truck starts up after sitting all night
See "how Cold start injector works". This only applies while cranking.
Also check temp sensors. Those need to be cleaned at least once every 31 years
Clean to bare metal, threads and all, and threads where they mount.Also search hard cold start and rough idle. There is already a thread on that.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Dec 26, 2017 at 04:58 PM.
#4
well, no offence, but i dont agree with just fixing a low idle first.
Because that would mean mucking with idle speed, when the reason for the low idle could be something else, like spark quality,, timing, or fuel or compression, and i would place a monetary bet that part of your desmogging didnt inlcude changing the idle settings, or changing the amount of air going in to the engine at idle.
This new issue sounds like a humidity related spark problem.
before you do anything that costs money, go out at nighttime, open the bonnet, get a spray bottle and spray a fine mist of water over the HT leads, dizzy cap, and all ignition components in the dark. I repeat, a fine mist (not flooding the engine bay lol). Watch for sparks.
If you see sparks, u are leaking high voltage. this often happens when the air is so humid that it cannot hold moisture any longer so it becomes very easy to transmit high voltage electricity over relatively small distances.
Like from HT leads across to steel mounting points or brackets etc.
U may notice it slowly gets better as the engine warms up, this is because the engine creates an area of heat around it which (in simple terms) dries out the air, both in and around the distributor.
Because that would mean mucking with idle speed, when the reason for the low idle could be something else, like spark quality,, timing, or fuel or compression, and i would place a monetary bet that part of your desmogging didnt inlcude changing the idle settings, or changing the amount of air going in to the engine at idle.
This new issue sounds like a humidity related spark problem.
before you do anything that costs money, go out at nighttime, open the bonnet, get a spray bottle and spray a fine mist of water over the HT leads, dizzy cap, and all ignition components in the dark. I repeat, a fine mist (not flooding the engine bay lol). Watch for sparks.
If you see sparks, u are leaking high voltage. this often happens when the air is so humid that it cannot hold moisture any longer so it becomes very easy to transmit high voltage electricity over relatively small distances.
Like from HT leads across to steel mounting points or brackets etc.
U may notice it slowly gets better as the engine warms up, this is because the engine creates an area of heat around it which (in simple terms) dries out the air, both in and around the distributor.
Last edited by Thommo Thompson; Dec 26, 2017 at 11:46 PM.
#5
lots of possibilities here.
could be as simple as no residual fuel pressure, which affects warm starts much more than cold starts. if this is the root cause, it can be "solved" by turning the key to "start" but NOT pressing down the clutch pedal for one second, then press the pedal while still holding key in start position (warm starts only - for cold starts, use "normal" procedure).
could be as simple as no residual fuel pressure, which affects warm starts much more than cold starts. if this is the root cause, it can be "solved" by turning the key to "start" but NOT pressing down the clutch pedal for one second, then press the pedal while still holding key in start position (warm starts only - for cold starts, use "normal" procedure).
Last edited by wallytoo; Dec 27, 2017 at 03:08 AM.
#6
I like Thommo's suggested practical test^^^. I would do it, too.
hookerpilot47, Pls note someone else in this forum was seeing arcing from high tension (HT) wires to metal.
Withuot knowing This suggests that idle needed to be checked after the last thing hookerpilot47 did.
Yes. To eliminate doubt on pressure regulator, Wallytoo, a few others and I installed pressure gauge piggybacked on CSI.
This vacuum switching valve (below) controls fuel pressure regulator.

I don't exactly know when ECU does it but when valve exposes FPR to atmospheric pressure fuel pressure goes up as in this video:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Xb8jVERhPA8JfpPx1
hookerpilot47, Pls note someone else in this forum was seeing arcing from high tension (HT) wires to metal.
This vacuum switching valve (below) controls fuel pressure regulator.
I don't exactly know when ECU does it but when valve exposes FPR to atmospheric pressure fuel pressure goes up as in this video:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Xb8jVERhPA8JfpPx1
#7
Gents,
did what you recommended and squirted the high tension cables no arching but when I sprayed on the top of ththrottl body where all he vacuum lines connect the engine dropped Down a ton on rpm Ns began to sputter and spit. Could any of you post some pics on how you routed your lines de-smogged . Do have a line that is left open and I thought that would keep the fuel pump pumping but I maybe wrong. Can you assist me ?
Should I readjust the idle after I square that away after I verify I have no leaks on the throttle body / intake area.
Thankd in advance
did what you recommended and squirted the high tension cables no arching but when I sprayed on the top of ththrottl body where all he vacuum lines connect the engine dropped Down a ton on rpm Ns began to sputter and spit. Could any of you post some pics on how you routed your lines de-smogged . Do have a line that is left open and I thought that would keep the fuel pump pumping but I maybe wrong. Can you assist me ?
Should I readjust the idle after I square that away after I verify I have no leaks on the throttle body / intake area.
Thankd in advance
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#8
#9
Gents,
did what you recommended and squirted the high tension cables no arching but when I sprayed on the top of ththrottl body where all he vacuum lines connect the engine dropped Down a ton on rpm Ns began to sputter and spit. Could any of you post some pics on how you routed your lines de-smogged . Do have a line that is left open and I thought that would keep the fuel pump pumping but I maybe wrong. Can you assist me ?
Should I readjust the idle after I square that away after I verify I have no leaks on the throttle body / intake area.
Thankd in advance
did what you recommended and squirted the high tension cables no arching but when I sprayed on the top of ththrottl body where all he vacuum lines connect the engine dropped Down a ton on rpm Ns began to sputter and spit. Could any of you post some pics on how you routed your lines de-smogged . Do have a line that is left open and I thought that would keep the fuel pump pumping but I maybe wrong. Can you assist me ?
Should I readjust the idle after I square that away after I verify I have no leaks on the throttle body / intake area.
Thankd in advance
pictures of what your system now looks like mught be helpful in solving your problem.
#14
id be trying to spray water in a very small spray around each hose infividually and see which makes it stumble. looks like uve tried to use hoses that are a bit loose and zipties em haha. good try, but it never works with vacuum hoses.
#15
Boom I had the Jen hose that was reversed on other side
you all rock
It's fixed thank you all so much just like you said that one thing was reversed so the fuel pump didn't have constant pressure
#16
What was reversed? Care to share to help other owners in the future?
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Dec 28, 2017 at 05:36 PM.
#18
Hose on I take was not put on right side
you all were right, the hose you labeled in red was hooked up to the other connector and the open air was chasing the changing in fuel pressure . Silly mistake for sure but makes sense in order to keep the fuel pump pressurized . I'll send pics in the am when it's daylight
#19
We always appreciate fellow members updating us on what fixed their problems. (Others merely "walk away" without leaving information that may help others in the future.)
Actually,
1) If the hose marked in red above were not hooked up, your intake manifold would be sucking air; that's a major vacuum leak. That causes stalling or idling issue.
2) If thewire hose marked in blue were not hooked up, it exposes a mechanism in the fuel pressure regulator to atmospheric pressure (higher than vacuum) and raises the fuel pressure, but you would not see that without a pressure gage.
you all were right, the hose you labeled in red was hooked up to the other connector and the open air was chasing the changing in fuel pressure . Silly mistake for sure but makes sense in order to keep the fuel pump pressurized . I'll send pics in the am when it's daylight
1) If the hose marked in red above were not hooked up, your intake manifold would be sucking air; that's a major vacuum leak. That causes stalling or idling issue.
2) If the
Last edited by RAD4Runner; Dec 29, 2017 at 07:56 PM.
#20
Where to go from here on this issue
after I drive it 30 min or so then it’s sets for 10-xxx number of minutes it won’t crank hardly at all. I don’t know this is got me scratching my head, is the fuel rail losing pressure after it sets and then I have air in the system ?






