I've been looking into doing a inexpensive lift on my 85 4runner frame/86 xtra cab body I originally started looking at OME lift but have decided I did not need the load carrying capacity of them and would like to try and piece together stock springs to get a 2" lift. Ive looked around and only seen one comment on the forums that I surf that some one suggested putting a couple more leafs on the stock fronts to make them a 5-6 leaf pack and adding a few to the rear to make them a 6-7 leaf pack and it would add a couple inches of lift. What I am wondering if I start out with a 89-95 rear springs (longer = more flex) would those lift the truck in there stock form? Would it be worth moving the spring hangers and shackles to make room for the longer springs 51.25" vs 47.5" And has any one ever done it and have pictures of it.

 

I read some posts on mud from a fella that did this on a 4runner with what appeared to be decent results. I was/am in the same boat as you. Not looking for monster height or anything, but I needed some height to clear 33s. I ended up piecing some spring together with ok results. I will have to double check what all I did, but I built the rear packs with my stock 1985 4Runner springs combined with what I believe were 1985 pickup rear springs. In the front, I believe I used one of the leafs from the rear pickup springs and one leaf from a Dodge Dakota rear spring cut down to fit correctly. I also replaced all the bushings with poly bushings at that time and used 18mm hardware. I need new shocks, but I am debating on whether to make changes or not before I invest in shocks. The only problems I have had is I think I mixed up the front springs - the driver side is lower than the passenger. And the rear driver is a little lower too - I had to use the mainspring from the pickup pack as my 4Runner leaf was physically broken at one eye. I think this is what caused a height difference between the sides.

I can get you some measurements and possibly pics this evening.

I did the same thing for my shot Tacoma rear springs using a single leaf from a Dakota pack with excellent results. I got about 3" of lift out of one leaf and have been running that way for 2-3 years now.

I didnt use any 89-95 springs, but hopefully this helps some.

 

I was about to give up hope! I think I was also on mud when I seen someone make mention of the springs. Are you still running the push pull steering?

 

Yeah - believe I found only one or two threads on it. Yep. That was part of my motivation as I did not want to get so high as to affect the steering a great deal.

 

Pictures (yes the springs need painting). Wrote measurements down somewhere. Will find and send along.
Front springs





Rear

 

yep that's the way they should have looked from the factory! do you have any problems with your J-arm hitting the top of the springs? I read some where if you get too thick of a spring pack with the push pull steering your dragglink/J-arm will contact the top of the spring (maybe that's just with the ubolt flip). You got any pics of it on all 4?

 

Hey i have an 89 4Runner v6 3.slow manual. The rear springs have been sagging for a while now and the top spring on the passenger side finally took a crap. It literally snapped in half about 2.5" behind the center pin. The 4Runner currently has stock 47" springs. I also have a 89 Toyota pickup parts truck with 51" rear springs. Im curious if anyone has ever been able to fit a set of 51" rear springs off a later Toyota model on a 89 4Runner without having to move the spring mounts? Is it possible to bend the spring a little more to make the eye to eye lengths the same or will that change the shackle angles too much?

 

with 4" longer springs I think you would have to move the front hanger and the shackle hanger

 

No - no problems with the J-arm, but it is a very close fit. Not sure I could put another leaf in without causing problems. No pics on all 4 right now. Awaiting new wheels. Will get some as soon as I get it all back together though.



From my reading on this, I believe this information is correct. YMMV though.

 

talk about close!

 

I'd be very careful if the suspension is articulating (if not offroad, think driveway transition) and you are trying to turn. Thats way too close in my opinion. The last thing you want is to lose the ability to steer because it is binding up. Obviously the steering geometry is a little off, maybe there is a way to fix that? A drop draglink would fix the geometry but wouldnt give you any addition steering arm/leaf pack clearance. If you had longer stubs and could put a 1/2" or 1" spacer between the knuckle and steering arm that would help with clearance but I'm not a fan of spacers either.

just my .02

 

You could run longer shackles but may cause problems with pinion angle. Which may be corrected with a shim. If you Offroad and opt for shims or blocks; use steel and weld to perches.

Why not Chevy 63s?

 

Mud I think to get the front up high enough to match the chevy springs I would need to do cross over and I only plan on 33s so I want to keep it low as possible. and as far as the J arm in Dans pic it moves with that part of the spring I don't think there is any chance of it hitting during flex if it does not hit siting level, but that's my opinion looking at it.

 

This is intriguing tho. http://www.toyota120.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1012

 

The chevy 63's net around 4" depending on where you put you shackle hangers and if you French them in or not. I ran a 4" lift with 33's on an 85 and it flexed and worked out very well. When your talking SAS you have a lot of ability to tweak your ride height.

You can also ad or remove spring packs to get more or less flex. Going to crossover steering is a huge bonus. Always do it if it fits and is in the budget. Since you will be welding stuff on you can tack your hangers on and then have a good idea of how it will sit.

 

and removing springs will adjust ride height. I'm on 3/4ton 63"s with overloads. Still needed a 1" block to even front. And my SAS sits lower than many that used off the shelf SAS kits. Really the decision of what you wanna do with rig should drive choice on build. If you Offroad and want flex 63s are on easy choice if you just want looks we'll throw some blocks in and call it good. You can worry cost but it is cheaper to do it the first time than like I did: 2" lift stock length, allpro 4" springs, now 63s.

depending on where you live I have my Allpros on garage floor I'll part with.

 

any of yall running 63's with frenched hangers? less than 4" lift?

 

Lots of people do it. It puts you around 3". Just high enough for cross over steering. Pirate has a bunch of threads on it. I am sure the fab section has a few as well. Did you have a specific question regarding the swap?

 

Pirate's 63" Chevy Faq
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...-swap-faq.html

 

nope fish you answered it with around 3". I original plan was 89+ rear springs and it morphed into a 63 discussion. yes I priced both at my local pick apart and they wanted the same price for toys as chevys Thanks for the link drop I have that saved to my favorites.