Yes, thats Canadian pesos at Canadian dealer, 60 days to get.

That is part number 23206-35180, is the part with six bolts around and pressure and return tubes, and power and ground for fuel pump. Fuel pump mounts inside.

Here in rusty Western Canada, I had the brake line between the tank and the frame rust through and need replacement.

I took box off, taking tank out and as soon as I touched wrenches to the fuel disconnnect fitting, the rust flaked off and it started leaking on the steel pressure line. Mud, grit and crud builds up on top of the tank, immersing those two steel lines, the pressure and the return. The metal part of the pressure line coming from the tank is completely rusted to crap. The fix is a new fuel pump mount bracket.

I see them on e-bay and such for $150 +/-, with exchange, shipping, duty, etc and shipping and customs delay, yuck.

Has anyone repaired this, or know of a fix other than replacement for this rusted off pressure pipe?

Thanks, Jiggs.

 

How good are your fabrication skills gather up the needed parts and make your own.

Buy a new one.

Without seeing it there is no way to tell if it is feasible to try repairing what you have.

Do you plan to replace all the brake and fuel lines as well??

 

The part of the part thats failed is the steel line that carries ~40psi fuel from the pump in the bottom of the tank to the steel fuel line along the frame. Its rusted off pretty much flush with the outside of the tank.

I'm going to plug that rusted line off at the outside of the tank, using silicone goo of some type, forcing it down the tube an inch or two and leaving a mushroom on the outside.

Drill a hole in that circular cover that holds the bracket, install gasketed bulkhead fitting with straight hose barb fitting inside, and 90-elbow hose barb fitting outside. 6" piece of double braid hi pressure fuel hose inside, to carry fuel from the pump to the bulkhead fitting, and 3 feet of that rubber line outside to carry fuel from the top of the tank to the metal line farther ahead on the frame where its not rusted. Double clamps on each connection, the high pressure clamps not just the low pressure gear clamps.

Inside the tank, the metal line that I'm not using holds the fuel pump in place, I'll have to figure something out so the fuel pump doesn't wiggle out of place.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Jiggs

 

The bulkhead fitting is in a 3/4" hole in the fuel pump access flange. Connected-up and working great, no leaks.

The whole reason for taking tank off was a rusted-out brake line. Replaced the steel brake lines from the cab-back. Last time I was doing brake lines, the steel line was in a 100 foot coil, and all the fittings were in a papco kit. Flaring tool and dies that could make flat face, in-taper or out-taper or bubble flares. That was 35 years ago. No such thing any more, brake lines all made up in 1/2 foot increments, I have to know how long of pieces I need, and think ahead and stuff. Got lines all done up.

Discovered that a cheap pressure bleeder is the answer to bleeding brakes, no more apologizing to wife for speaking harshly about how fast and hard to push the pedal.

Brake pressure bleeder is way easy, I started with a 1gal wal-mart garden chemical sprayer. Cut the spray-wand off and discard, leaving 2 feet of hose. I used another of those bulkhead fittings in a master cylinder lid I scrounged from the junkyard, and hooked that up to the garden sprayer hose. I opened a brand new quart of brake fluid, and filled the master cylinder about half full. I poured the rest of the quart of fluid into the garden sprayer. Put the lid hooked to the garden sprayer on the master cylinder, and pump up the garden sprayer a bit. Go around the vehicle, opening up the bleed screws one at a time, starting at the load proportioning valve, then each wheel cylinder, then back and forth between the bleed screws until clean, bubble free fluid flows out. The garden sprayer, pumped up to about 5 or 6 psi, forces fluid into the master cylinder, through the lines and out. No muss no fuss just catch the fluid coming out in a catch bucket. It took about half a quart in the catch bucket to get the rears bled out and hard-pedal. Since the other half quart is in the sprayer already, I opened the front bleed screws and bled out a few ounces of brown then clear fluid from each front caliper.

Pressure bleeders for brakes are not new or complicated, but putting one together for $12 is so much easier than having an assistant/wife pump the pedal.

Jiggs.

 

http://parts.lakelandtoyota.com/prod...rm=23206-35180

If I compute correctly, about 190 Canadian. I've had good luck with this dealer. I have no idea (and I doubt they do either) how long it will take to get it over the border.

Remember, this is pressurized gasoline you're talking about. Do you really want an explosive mixture dribbling over your exhaust pipe?

 

brakes on these can be gravity bled. no assistant needed. only patience and attention, make sure the master cyinder does not run dry during bleeding (just as you would do when pump-bleeding).

i've used this method for years on numerous vehicles when replacing lines, wheel cylinders, etc. the brakes work correctly, no air in the lines, the pedal isn't spongy and remains firm.

the method doesn't work for older vehicles that have the master cylinder either low on the firewall, or under the floor boards, or located at the frame rails. modern vehicles mostly have the MC mounted high on the firewall, so it works.

wally