Ok so I have an 85 4Runner that I am having engnbldr do my block work for me & send out my crank and getting a full rebuild kit from him. So I got the motor aspect covered.

Now on to suspension and drivetrain. I know it's lockers and gears and armor before lift. Gears and lockers are as follows. Either 4.56's or 4.88's depending on how strong the motor feels. Daily driver with light wheeling some over landing and hunting rig. Want to run a 33" tire. Old motor turned 31 w4.10's like they were 29's. So gears to be determined. But Detroit soft locker in the rear and trutrac up front. Going to make my own sliders and bumpers. Probably get a budbuilt skid in the future or just copy one.

So on to the suspension question. I was originally going to go with OME full suspension. I can weld. I am now considering the Chevy 63's and RUF instead. With the OME it all factory bolt on ect. Great kit but at around $1500 I started checking other options. The Chevy 63's and RUF make it a little taller than I want but also give me the ability to do a crossover steering setup and running QD sway bars would help retain some of the road manners. And it seems like at least the lift itself will be much more affordable. I know the crossover set up is pricy. While I am deciding on this I will be doing gears and lockers first but to clear 33's after gears and lockers I was thinking a 1" body lift would due short term.

What are the thoughts on OME vs RUF.

 

My truck came with OME on it. It is okay but does ride a little rougher then I care for. Eventually I am going to go back with stock springs on mine. As I understand it, OME gives it a 2-3 inch lift. I actually want mine to ride a little lower so as not to have to jump up into it. No idea about RUF.

 

Good discussion.
Re stock OEM Toyota leaf Springs... has anybody used them to replace the old saggy ones, and did they last a while or did they sag like the original ones did after a short time?

 

The PO of my 85 had new OEM springs made to replace his front springs. It seems to be about stock heighth, rides like a brick S. house. I am looking to gain around 3-4 inches of lift, 4 before it settles out end up with 3". I don't want to lift it without gaining some quality of ride on the street as well. It's my DD but I have a trailer to get it to and from the trails.

What are some other ideas for a small lift that will give some better than stock flex and still maintain road flex. I am also thinking about just sticking with the 1" BL and some extended shackles. Maybe ZUK mod in the rear as well if needed. Just looking to run 33"'s without rub and be able to stuff the tires front and rear.

 

PO, I like the RUF and 63"s. I didn't go that route at the time I SAS'd my 86. Do loads of research but you know that. The front castor angle is set by spring position in relation to the spring mounts, spring deminsions, and shackles. The idea of flexy and soft lift with stock length springs is a farse.

As for gears I'd go with 4.88 at a minimum. 33s will run fine but if you decide to go 35s it'll run fine too. Especially if you add a 1" body lift too. Just my thoughts and interested to see end result.

 

Differently only going to be 33's. I will eventually rebuild my other 22te motor and buy a wheeler in need of a motor. But until then I am keeping this as a fun light wheeler that's going to see 15-25k miles a year. I have property down by Elbe in Washington that I will keep a designated wheeler at when the time comes. The wife says she will not want to drive it or ride in it with 35's. Kinda have to pick my battles. It's a great excuse to build a wheeler later on. And since it will be trailered just weld the diffs if it doesn't have lockers when I get it.

How low can one get a RUF and 63 lift. 4" or below? I have driven a few of them and they all see to be around 4-5". As far as the BL it's a temporary way to help with 33"s till I figure out my suspension. I do not want a BL permanent on this truck

 

You can adjust height but removing or adding springs. Having a SFA truck should allow you to run lower lift with still keeping up travel.

 

I believe people who run RUF have to build a custom pack out of two sets of rear leafs....
It also appears that rigs with RUF get 2-3" lift over stock. A trail gear 3" lift lifted my 83 long bed nearly 6" higher than stock. But I also dropped my front hanger 1" to get a better pinion angle... not sure if any of this helps, but you could check out some RUF threads Im sure there are plenty of them.

 

I saw this thread and after muddpigg's suggestion, pulled a leaf from the front OME leaf pack. I'm pretty happy with the ride and height now.

I bought the truck with lift shackles and stock springs. It rode like a tank and I couldn't even drink coffee while going down the highway. I ordered the full OME suspension and swapped the rear springs. It was still extremely stiff. When I swapped the front I pulled out the third spring from the top. The ride height is reduced to where I wanted it and it was much, much softer. I did some light wheeling yesterday and it felt good. I haven't done the rear yet because I'm going to load it up with my canopy, gear, etc and see what it looks like. Will most likely pull a spring from there too. I can post a pic of height if you want it.

I'm looking to stay with 31s and just improve the ride. I was under the impression that the chevy/ruf swap gives too much lift for what I wanted.