Hey all. So I've been fighting my '92 3VZE V6 3.0L SR5 for a while and finally found my coolant leak and have it fixed. But part of it involved taking off the top idler pulley and I lost the tension on the timing belt. So now I have to re-time but I can't break the crankshaft bolt. I can't get it by hand, the small portable impact isn't powerful enough, the big impact is TOO big, and every place that would rent an air compressor and impact either doesn't have a compressor that puts out enough CFM or is just way too expensive for a 24 hour rental. And I'd rather not take out the A/C radiator since I've never touched that part of the vehicle and don't feel like learning a new part while I have more torn out of the truck than I ever have.

I'm thinking of doing the technique a lot of people have mentioned, that is using a breaker bar against the frame and tap-starting the engine. I know to remove the spark plugs but I have a few questions/concerns:

- Because I lost tension on the timing belt it is now loosely draped around the crankshaft gear so I fear trying to turn the shaft will do damage to the belt
- The coolant system is open at several locations. It's mostly drained but I worry that some might sputter out
- The intake chamber is off as are all of the vacuum, fuel, coolant, etc., lines leading to it. Will that cause any issues?



TL;DR -- If I try to break the crankshaft bolt by doing the "tap-starter breaker bar on the frame" method does it matter if I have all kinds of lines taken apart? Or is all that will happen is the battery gives juice to the starter and it tries to start the engine but only ends up turning the crankshaft?

Thanks in advance for your help!

 

In case it might help you, I'll tell you what I did to break the bolt free. I used a piece of steel strapping with holes in it. I bolted it somewhere down there near the pulley, and then bolted it to the pulley itself. I don't remember the exact details, but it worked. Another method I used recently on my old Honda is to use a chain anchored from above fastened to a hole in the pulley.

Just some ideas that may help out.

 

Those are definitely some viable options. I'll give it a shot. Thank you!

EDIT: I'm assuming both methods were with a break bar, correct?

 

Definitely, or a 1/2" or 3/4" impact!

 

Don't waste your time on the "starter" method or an impact gun. No matter how you get the bolt out, you HAVE to put it back in. 181 ft-lbs (!!), and you STILL need some way to keep the crank from turning. An impact gun won't help (if it could get up to 181, then it could probably make it up to 200, and then what?)

So suck it up now and build the tool of your choice. I, of course, am partial to this one:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...h-3vze-137934/ You could build one yourself for approximately $0.00, or I'll rent you mine for only $80/day.

If you're a real weakling, get one of these: http://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-d...bar-67933.html With my tool and this breaker bar, I can remove my crank bolt without even putting my coffee down.

 

Wow, that's awesome. I'll have to find some scrap metal for that. Wait so can I pull off the first pulley without breaking the bolt first? Huh, might be easier to make a tool than I thought. Super derp on my part.

Thanks!

 

Check a mattress store; they often have a pile of "bed frames" in the back. Good source of angle iron.

The AC pulley comes off with the four bolts you can easily see.

And feel free to "shop around" this site. My tool is not the only good shop-built crank holding tool you can find here. It's just the best. ;^)

 

X2 on impact driver...your best friend on those type bugger bolts..

 

Ok, but how does he put it back on?

 

I struggled for three weeks to get my crank bolt out for a 22re though. Past the point of using the starter and too chicken to use an impact.


In the end I used a simple chain vise grip and a two foot breaker bar and a three foot pipe. At first I thought I ripped something in my stomach with just the breaker bar.


I wasn't going to give up and finally one day I said ok you bastard today your coming out.


Grabbed my propane torch and heated up a bit and added the three foot pipe to the breaker bar. Heard a squeak like a mouse and it was finally loose.

Used a motorcycle tube wrapped around the pulley also.


Good luck!

 

This is almost exactly what I came up with to remove the crankshaft bolt. a long piece of angle iron with 2 holes that lined up on the damper bolts with a slight cutout for the socket on the crank bolt. I let the end of the bar ride on the frame on the drivers side. And a long long breaker bar. A tough bolt to get out regardless.

Cheers
Andy

 

You can use a breaker bar and starter method. I've done it numerous times. And for putting it back on...Well, I have the spark plugs in, put in in reverse, put the parking brake on, put a wood block under one of the wheels, squirt some loc-tite on the bolt and then just torque the hell out of it. *shrugs* Many will disagree, but i've done it time and time again and haven't had a problem yet in the ten years I've owned my 93 pickup.

 

I used a short piece of 2x8, drew the outline of the pulley, cut holes for the crank bolt and pulley bolts. Used some longer bolts, attached the 2x8, turned so it contacted some part of the frame and used a breaker bar and section of pipe to break it loose. Worked great didn't cost anything.

 

Yup! That's what loc-tite will do. I pity the next person who needs to remove that bolt. (Of course, who knows what "torque the hell out of it" comes to. 400 ft-lbs? 75 ft-lbs? 90? Even with loc-tite, that bolt could come out any day.)

 

If you have a manual and and decide to keep the engine from turning by putting it in gear, reverse or 1st are exactly the wrong gears to use. You want the engine to have the least mechanical advantage to the rear wheels as possible, so the best gear to use is 5th in high range. In high 5th, any reasonably functional e-brake will easily hold the vehicle against any torque you can apply to the engine by hand.

Scope is correct about the use (misuse) of loc-tite. In general, properly torqued bolts on properly designed joints don't come loose. Improper torquing or improper joint design results a bolt or nut that will loosen at least somewhat and lead to a failing joint in spite of almost any combination of lock washers, safety wire, or chemical locking techniques. Google "junkers machine" for some good reading on how bolts loosen in service.