Looking for some tips on compressing the valve bucket to remove the valve shim on a 1992 v6 3.0. Measured all the clearances, 4 exhaust valves are too tight. Need to pull the shims so i can find the ones i need.

Tried using a hex key to push down on the valve bucket but that just kept slipping on me when id put force. Heard compressed air works in the groove for the shim, gave that a try with a gun nozzle aimed at the groove, nothing happened. I got everything but those 2 special tools to help me.

If i remove the cam caps to pull the cam up, do i gotta mess with the timing belt to get enough room to pick at the shim? Will that help or do i still need to compress the bucket to remove the shim? Thanks Sent from my iPhone using YotaTech

 

Do yourself a huge favor and don't even attempt this until you have the correct tool. You can get a cheap one at pretty much any auto parts or tool place. Even with the tool it's still a pain in the ass. Rotate the engine for each one to lessen the tension on the shim and take careful measurements. I ended up using a long magnet to get most of the shims out but I'm sure air or a little pick would work as well. Some end up stuck in there pretty good. You don't want to have to buy too many. Up here they were around $30 each so i switched them around to get most in spec and only had to buy a few.

The cam has to be lifted straight up and out of the head. I would really advise you not to pop the caps off and try to lift one end to get at the shims. You could very well end up cracking the edges of the journals.

Good luck

 

I gave up on the valves lol I have a 3.4 going in soon, so I feel like Ill be just wasting my time.

However the valve covers are being a real pain in the a$$ trying to bolt back on. The bolt holes in the valve cover aren't lining up with the threaded holes in the head all the way around, i can get one side then the other side is off.

 

Sounds like the may be out 180 degrees or on the wrong side???? If they came off, the gotta go back on.

 

They were fairly quick to take off, they had fel pro gaskets as the old set and the new ones are the same. I swapped the gaskets between left and right side covers to see if that would help or make a difference didn't change a thing.

I lay the covers on the head with the new gaskets and there is a good 1/2" gap or so between the cover bolt hole and the threaded holes. But cant thread in all the bolts. Shouldn't the holes all line up and be easy to bolt into, no? Or is this how it was designed to be? Feel like i shouldnt have to fight with both of them. And i am following the torque sequence order from FSM

Its frustrating cuz ive been having to clean up the sealant mess every time i try lol

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Are you starting all bolts before tightening any??

 

Yup just like a quarter turn to get them started. I get bolt 1 in then bolt 2 on opposite side wont even thread in no matter how hard i push the valve cover in its direction.

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