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So I pulled the old cv axles off since the boots were tore to hell and back. Im fixing to put the new axles back in but I don't have the dust covers for the new axles since I cheaped out and got remand axles. Anybody know the part number for an 89 4runner ifs outer dust cover so I can hopefully walk in and out of the auto store tomorrow?
Last edited by HaydenConQueso; Apr 5, 2015 at 08:09 PM.
Everything I've read on here so far says that changing cv axles is a pretty straightforward and simple task to go about, but all of my experience from last night and this morning says otherwise. I go the old CV out, but not without a fight. I had to get a pry bar under the diff axle to lift it up enough so the half shaft could slide through the A arm. I've go the back corner on a jack stand, a jack stand under the crossmember, the jack on the control arm and I can't get the new cv back in. Somebody please help me before I break something.
Well that may become a problem once I can actually feed the half shaft past the differential sat. That picture makes it hard to tell, but the cv axle will not find it's way around that dif shaft in any way shape or form. I've tried turning the wheel, compressing the suspension etc etc but dang is that thing rough
Remove studs and replace with bolts. Makes changing CV's a breeze. It's a fight to do it otherwise. And I believe the the correct factory way to change CV is to remove a ball joint.
Use a high grade bolt to replace the studs. I found grade 10 online for a good deal years ago.
You've got to load the suspension. Make sure tire is on opposite side and take a second jack and put it under lower control arm (side you're working on) and compress the suspension until it starts to lift the whole truck. Also I took off lower shock bolt and moved shock to the side. Made it very easy
To remove (or reinstall) the half-shaft, the suspension needs to be compressed as though it were sitting on the tires. https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...pickup-288034/ When I've done it, I have the truck on jack stands and put a jack under the rotor. I lift it just until the weight starts to come off the nearest jack stand. Then the half-shaft will come out (or go in) without problem. If you put the jack under the lower control arm instead, you might not get enough leverage to compress the suspension.
You might find it a little easier if you loosen the connection to the "anti-sway" bar. But you definitely don't have to remove the ball joints, the shocks, or anything else. And you definitely don't have to take a sledge hammer to the differential flange to remove the precision pressed-in studs. Why would Toyota build a truck that way?
Yeah buddy I got an update for you. Go ahead and check out my build thread where I'm posting the start to finish of my overland. It was a radical experience changing the half shafts!