have messed with the tps but I cant seem to get that right, the Ohms jump all over the place when i try to adjust it off of the car. However the car did run before I rebuilt it. Story of my life!!

Have not used a timing light because I havent gotten the damn thing to run since ive rebuilt it. Have not messed with MAF sensor because it was fine before the rebuild.

I could use an explanation of what "180 degrees out means"?
My timing marks do not match up 100% correctly it is slightly clockwise on the two cams...from what ive read thats okay..?

Things I do know...
1. Code 14 is appearing
2. Timing appears to be correct (after 100x's of doing it)
3. Distributor checked out, cap/rotor appears to be good condition.
4. Coil resistance checked out.
5. Got a spark from spark plugs (orangish spark) but no spark from coil wire to body of truck...?

 

Code 14 is IGF signal from igniter is not input to ECM for 6 consecutive ignition
Ensure your igniter is hooked up and grounded. Did you reinstall the grounds on the rear of the passenger cylinder head and the ground on top of the intake?
Spark should be bluish not orange.
As for the 180 out, the crank turns 2 time to the camshafts 1. 180 out means you have the distributor set to fire on the exhaust stroke of the cylinder instead of the compression stroke.
Hope this helps.

 

To answer your question on if those grounds are connected...YES they are.

Driver side ground is going to head between the alternator and the driver side engine hoist hook and the passenger side i have a ground to the ac compressor support bracket to the block? Idk if the passenger side is correct because i couldnt remember where I took that ground off(oops)...appears the ground im talking bout is coming from the batttery and also hooks to the starter?

The spark plugs are brand new, when i take the spark plugs out they are black and wet? I dont know if this info will help at all..

So the 180 degrees out, I lined the crank to TDC (0) and install the distributor with the distributor notch lining up as well as the distributor rotor facing cylinder no. 1? Is this correct?

Lastly... I just discovered a blown EFI fuse(15amp)...my check engine light no longer would appear when turning ignition to "ON" which lead me to find the burnt out fuse. I dont know why it blew...?

Sorry for the overwhelming bits of information...im really trying to get this truck back on the road!!

Thanks!

Dap

 

Try resetting the timing and make sure all of your wiring is hooked up and I think you'll be in business.

 

Yeah all the grounds are hooked up to the locations you described above. Behind the passenger valve cover and ontop of the intake, correct?

When setting the crank to zero that is TDC for cylinder no. 1 correct? Ive done all those things, everything is hooked up!!

Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated...like the weak spark, code 14, mashing gas to get the car to stay low idling...tps problems potentially or igniter

thanks

 

In a 4 stroke engine, each cylinder sees TDC twice during each compression cycle; once for compression and once for exhaust.
If it ran fine before you tore it apart and you didn't mess with the TPS, it should be fine.
The first thing I would do is check all the wiring connections and grounds. And then check the timing.
Are you 100% sure you got the cam timing right when you put the timing belt back on and that the firing order is correct (1,3,5 passenger-2,4,6 drivers)?

 

Yeah im 100% sure on the timing belt..after all it took me literally 50-100times to be comfortable with the work I did.
Line up the 3 marks(2 cams and crank)...keep the slack outta the drivers side, install hydraulic tensioner...rotate twice and see if the marks line up...which they did. Hell i even did it by the FSM by removing the passenger camshaft dowel pin and trying to get the cams PERFECTLY lined up. Would you think the ground that goes to the starter from the battery would cause issue...since i have it hooked to the ac compressor bracket?

I did mess with the TPS but couldnt figure out which way the damn diagram was showing the two things i needed to test...backwards ass diagram...that shouldnt make the vehicle not start...i was going to cross that bridge when I got there.

Thanks for trying to troubleshoot with me.

 

As long as the grounds are hooked up they should be good.
TPS shouldn't keep it from starting. Have you tried unplugging it and trying to start it?
I'd pull the number 1 plug and verify you aren't 180 out.
It's a good bet something was assembled wrong or left loose; it shouldn't be a part problem.
I've got to run. Good luck, hopefully you get it figured out.

 

Correct me if im wrong but isnt lining up the crank to zero on the lower timing cover TDC? Why do you assume something was assembled wrong and its not an electrical issue?
Anyways thanks for the help. Take care!!!

 

I do believe it is an electrical issue caused by not hooking something back up, installing the distributor 180 out or mixing up the firing order. rule out the simple things first.

 

Either a) you're talking about valve timing, or b) no, you haven't done anything to set the (ignition) timing correctly. You won't be able to get the timing close without a timing light, and it's easy to get it far enough off that it won't run. Particularly if you missed a tooth reinserting the distributor.

but ...

As gmc says, your own computer is telling you the igniter is not firing. (It may be doing it intermittently, so you can see a spark occasionally when you test it, but that won't keep it running). This is not a problem with timing (either valve or ignition), and the TPS doesn't have anything to do with this. You need to resolve that code first.

 

Im talking about the valve timing, I was under the understanding that the car needs to run in order to time the ignition.

How would I go about resolving the code? Is there a way to test the igniter?

Thanks

 

Yes, there is. Follow these steps from the FSM.
http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...12onvehicl.pdf

Definitely you need to fix the igniter/coil issue first. The IGF signal confirms that there was a ignition.

Here is a wiring diagram to assist you in your diagnosis
http://snjschmidt.com/wiring/Engine_Control_3vze_3.jpg

For a better understanding of what the IGF signal is, read the last paragraph on page 7 here
http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf

 

Thank you Gevo.

 

UPDATE: Did a compression test and all cylinders are ZERO!!!! WTFFF I tested the piston rings by putting kerosene in the cylinder heads to see if any of them leaked over a period of time...only one leaked some...before reassembly I took that piston out and the rings were gunked up so i cleaned them and redid the kerosene test and that fixed that piston....what could possibly be the reason for ZERO COMPRESSION?!!!

However when I hold the gas pedal down the engine will start and idle below 50rpm...??

Any help guys...im losing patience over here. I cant start drinking this early. Ahaha

 

Update: The compression gauge is some janky harbor freight unit it was not holding pressure thus giving me zero reading!!! Taking it back. So compression is not the issue.
Also replaced the "ignitor" with no change. Hahaha i sound like many others on these forums...throw parts at it til it works.

Sprayed starter fluid in intake to not much avail. still have to mash the gas to get the thing to idle at or below 50rpm and then it dies.

Also seems to want to idle at that weak 50rpm when I unplug the TPS sensor.


Heres a video of whats going on thanks fellas.


Thats me turning ignition with foot off gas then mashing the gas to get it to turn over. Both attempts.

 

UPDATED: I figured out the problem and it runs great now except the clutch is sticking halfway.GREAT!!! more beer though!!!!
My issue to get the truck to run proper was the distributor being thrown off a tooth when I would reinstall it after setting the timing. So for anyone with similar symptoms go check your distributor again to make sure that its lined up properly to cylinder no. 1. I cannot believe something like the distributor had me fooled for so long!!! I racked my brain over this issues for days.

I'm surprised out of 315 viewers only 15 chimed in. Thanks to those that did chime in.

 

next time. check your timing with a timing light. 10 is stock. so if it isn't running and the timing is at 25 or so, you can spot it much sooner. good job finding the problem

 

Yeah I still cant figure out the timing exactly...I cant even see the mark go by to set the timing...whats the trick to that?

 

can you see the timing marks on the timing cover? sometimes it helps to lightly paint the marks on the cover to go by. with the motor off of course. it should be around 10-12 degrees