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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

lights flash at high rpms and no radio memory after crank

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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 04:03 PM
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lights flash at high rpms and no radio memory after crank

I have a 1986 Toyota pickup 4x4 with the 22 motor. It has a fairly new battery and alt. Both done within the last year. The battery is the Super start series from OReilly and the alternator is also from OReilly.

So what Is happening is my headlights, dash lights, and brake and charge lights flicker at high rpms. Also, my stereo does not hold presets or time memory after cranking the motor. I had the battery die because of the brake lights getting left on. Multiple times. One time I charged the battery and the next time I drove it there was no flicker and all my presets were there.

So would this be battery? Like I said, it's fairly new but it has died many times. I am thinking about just buying a red top battery but don't want to throw money at it if that's not the problem. The alternator tested good at the auto parts store. So has anyone else had this problem? What do yall think? Battery? Alt?

Thanks
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 04:11 PM
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From: Central NJ
Have the battery checked, sounds like it might have a bad cell.
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 10:56 AM
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I had the battery tested at the parts store yesterday. It load tested fine. I have been noticing about a .01 volt drop every 20 minutes or so. If I don't drive it for a day, it won't start next time I go to drive it. Any clues what causes this? The battery is clean and so are the terminals. Obviously there is something wrong within the battery. Just wondering if anyone could tell me specifically what it could be. Is it repairable? Or should I go turn it in and get a new one? It's under warranty. Not sure they will replace it to though since it load tests fine.
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 11:07 AM
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Originally Posted by AZBlue86P/U
I had the battery tested at the parts store yesterday. It load tested fine. I have been noticing about a .01 volt drop every 20 minutes or so. If I don't drive it for a day, it won't start next time I go to drive it. Any clues what causes this? The battery is clean and so are the terminals. Obviously there is something wrong within the battery. Just wondering if anyone could tell me specifically what it could be. Is it repairable? Or should I go turn it in and get a new one? It's under warranty. Not sure they will replace it to though since it load tests fine.
If it's under warranty, then you can see if they will swap it out. Or, they'll give you the "you're stupid and don't know a thing about cars" look, even though you know there's a problem. I hate that. Like the other day, had a timing belt done and brought it home and it pinged really bad. Timing was way off, brought it in and the guy tells me "why don't you go out front and the technician will show you the right way to check timing". Pfft. For the record the timing was way off (34 degrees advanced) when he checked it too.

I would double-check your grounds on the starter, battery, etc. Check them all. If they are loose or really dirty (say you put the battery ground back on but there's a clump of mud in the way) it won't complete the circuit and drain your battery, or not start at all.
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by Gamefreakgc

If it's under warranty, then you can see if they will swap it out. Or, they'll give you the "you're stupid and don't know a thing about cars" look, even though you know there's a problem. I hate that. Like the other day, had a timing belt done and brought it home and it pinged really bad. Timing was way off, brought it in and the guy tells me "why don't you go out front and the technician will show you the right way to check timing". Pfft. For the record the timing was way off (34 degrees advanced) when he checked it too.

I would double-check your grounds on the starter, battery, etc. Check them all. If they are loose or really dirty (say you put the battery ground back on but there's a clump of mud in the way) it won't complete the circuit and drain your battery, or not start at all.
Well I took it off the truck yesterday and let it charge on my 6 amp automatic charger. The charger never shut off like it should have but I disconnected it anyways. Measured 12.76 volts. Let it sit for 30 minutes. Measured 12.5. Another 30 minutes, 12.4. And this was all off the truck. I know the auto parts guys pretty well cause I'm in there all the time so they should be cool with me. If not I'll just fork over the cash for the optima.

And wow, I have never taken my truck to an auto shop and never will. I don't trust them at all. Thanks for reinforcing my opinion on that! Haha. Hopefully they fixed it for you correctly, free of charge!
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 11:44 AM
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Red face

Just curious how far the voltage dropped ??

Did it hold steady above 12 volts or did the voltage just keep dropping ??

Depending how good your volt meter is I have read good batteries as low as 12.25 VDC.

It could pass a load test and still keep draining !!

I hope you can figure this out.

Last edited by wyoming9; Feb 14, 2014 at 11:46 AM.
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 11:50 AM
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Originally Posted by wyoming9
Just curious how far the voltage dropped ??

Did it hold steady above 12 volts or did the voltage just keep dropping ??

Depending how good your volt meter is I have read good batteries as low as 12.25 VDC.

It could pass a load test and still keep draining !!

I hope you can figure this out.
It was 12.21 volts this morning when I checked it. I then hooked it up to the charger. I've never tested how low it will go. It has left me late for work by not starting so I've been watching the voltage and charging it when it gets to the point that I don't trust it to start the next morning
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 12:20 PM
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From: Central NJ
A good battery will measure about 12.5V, good alt measures at least 13.25v or better (usually 13.75 is where I like to be bare minimum).

Either the battery isnt holding a charge or the vehicle has a drain of some kind.
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