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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

bad truck. dies. runs like crap. jerks alot.

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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 11:43 AM
  #1  
theerroneouspenguin's Avatar
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From: Boulder, CO
Ok..my truck. 1990 runner. V6. 5 speed.

Issues.

Cel kicks on for a minute several times a day. When it does the truck drops idle and dies. If u catch it right I can bring it back running. My dizzy plug, that plugs into the engine harness is frayed. Like..its crap. I've been told that's the issue. It plugs into rhe stater inside the dizzy. Can't find it at a yota dealer and they want 324$ for th housing.

Next issue. 4*4 will hardly work. But when it does, it does. Its the lever activated. I hear the relay clicking but it dosent engage all the time. I have no way to jack it up and yes the light work's.

Issue
Yhis things jerks like a seizing heroin addict. Usually in low rpm in any gear. Especially is first or 2nd no matter what speed.

Im homeless and live in the truck and cant afford a new dizzy. Anyyjing I can do cheap to check this stuff out. Especially the stater.

Thanks

TEP


bad truck. dies. runs like crap. jerks alot.-sgqu17x.jpg

Last edited by theerroneouspenguin; Jan 31, 2014 at 11:46 AM.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 11:49 AM
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Sorry to hear that bro. Hope things improve for you.

Try and pull codes to see what exactly is going on. Stick a paperclip in TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic port next to the engine bay fuse box and turn the key to "ON" but don't start it. Count the flashes until it loops back around and let us know what you get.

As far as the plug, yes, that will kill the engine. You'll need to go to a junkyard then and find a good dizzy connector from these engines. Cut it off with plenty of wire to spare and solder (do not use butt-connectors here) it to the existing wires.

As for the 4x4, check a thread that just popped on on here. Someone else is having the same issues and has lots of good info.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 11:51 AM
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Originally Posted by Gamefreakgc
Sorry to hear that bro. Hope things improve for you.

Try and pull codes to see what exactly is going on. Stick a paperclip in TE1 and E1 on the diagnostic port next to the engine bay fuse box and turn the key to "ON" but don't start it. Count the flashes until it loops back around and let us know what you get.

As far as the plug, yes, that will kill the engine. You'll need to go to a junkyard then and find a good dizzy connector from these engines. Cut it off with plenty of wire to spare and solder (do not use butt-connectors here) it to the existing wires.

As for the 4x4, check a thread that just popped on on here. Someone else is having the same issues and has lots of good info.
Thanks man. Ill let you know.

And dont worry about us. Everything happens for a reason and when we come out of rhis we will be much stronger people. Were not worried. Patience.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 12:02 PM
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From: Boulder, CO
Also..another issue


My from left wheel bearing, I think is shot.

When its cold cold, like, this morning in boulder, it sound like its grinding when the wheel is turning. Not a whooshing sound I got on my civic. But its a grinding. I know someone knows what the sound is. Just just cant describe it.

Coming from my driver front. Once I run the teuck for a while it stops. But when its super cold and just starting driving, its bad. Sounds like 2 grinds for every rotation of the wheel.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 12:45 PM
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Check your vac lines from the front dif and trace them up to the VSV's on the pass side fender. I believe that the green VSV or vacum box what ever its called is the one you are looking at. I had the same problem with my 90's 4x4. Found the vac lines swapped. works like a charm now. Good luck!
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 03:35 PM
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From: Memphis, TN
Check your intake for any holes/leaks.. If there is any, your truck will buck a lot at lower rpm. Mine did until I replaced all of the intake. Duct tape it tight and it may fix your issue!
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 03:37 PM
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From: Boulder, CO
Originally Posted by Mr Duke
Check your intake for any holes/leaks.. If there is any, your truck will buck a lot at lower rpm. Mine did until I replaced all of the intake. Duct tape it tight and it may fix your issue!
From a burnt gasket? So around where it connects to rhe head?

Does anyone know how to fix cracked plastic on the rad? Can you plastic weld? Mines cracked and being held together with rtv.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by theerroneouspenguin
From a burnt gasket? So around where it connects to rhe head? Does anyone know how to fix cracked plastic on the rad? Can you plastic weld? Mines cracked and being held together with rtv.
No, your air intake. Something about a messed up intake makes the TPS throw a fit, especially at low RPMs. From the air boxes to the throttle body, check for any major cracks or leaks. If you find some, duct tape them shut and it may fix your bucking issue.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 08:05 PM
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Ok. Thanks.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 08:37 PM
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the engine harness that plugs into the distributor is frayed? Is that what you were saying? I got a scrap harness I can cut the plugs off of and send up to you if you think that would help.. shoot me a pm if you want to try that.
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Old Feb 1, 2014 | 02:46 PM
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Originally Posted by crazytexan
the engine harness that plugs into the distributor is frayed? Is that what you were saying? I got a scrap harness I can cut the plugs off of and send up to you if you think that would help.. shoot me a pm if you want to try that.
That would be awesome.

Its the plug that comes sort of out of the dizzy and connects to the plug very close to the oil filler cap.

I sent a pm.
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 09:51 AM
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OK. Went to start the truck today and all kinds of relays were clicking. On both sides of the dash. Drivers and passenger sides. Battery is dead also.
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Old Feb 7, 2014 | 11:01 AM
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Electrical tape is your friend.
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