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3.0 wont turn over after intake manifold gasket replacement

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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 08:29 AM
  #1  
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3.0 wont turn over after intake manifold gasket replacement

I just tried starting up the truck after i had to replace the gaskets along with knock sensor and wire and it wouldnt turn over. checked the cold start injector and it had fuel under pressure. I followed chuntr's write up on the replacement https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f128...cement-233708/ and everything went smoothly. No coolant or anything else leaked out into the heads or anywhere i saw. The only thing im skeptical about is when I took the front coolant inlet off the left cam pulley spun when the timing belt was loosened so i didnt see where it was aligned, but the right pulley had the mark lined up on tdc. I kinda figured with how much it spun and how little it took for it to that i positioned it at or close to where the left pulleys mark was originally, which was facing down, opposite of the right side. So im wondering if that would have anything to do with it or could i maybe have overlooked a vacuum hose and not have hooked it up. I dont know if I compromised a gasket and there is an air leak deep down under the manifold or what and I really hope there isnt. Im going to check the spark plugs and wires now for the heck of it even though i only removed the pass side wires. Any feedback would be great
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 08:57 AM
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Also, I had to replace the gaskets because there was a coolant leak and if not started for a while, it would blow white smoke out the tail pipe and the longer it sat without being run the more smoke, and it wasnt run for about two weeks before I started the process
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 11:14 AM
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It sounds to me like you let it get out of time. You need to check that the marks on crank pulley and the two cam pulleys are lined up when at TDC.
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Old Nov 4, 2013 | 04:55 PM
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Or, you mixed up the hoses. If the EGR/PAIR valve hoses are wrong they will stall out your engine every time. There's some pics on here if you search around (or on google).

Also, when you say it wouldn't turn over, what do you mean? Does it just turn over forever or sputter and die? Nothing but a click? Stay running for 2 sec then die?

Make sure your VAFM is plugged in (silly, but overlooked more that you would think).
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 05:09 AM
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It cranks slowly forever at the same rate. I'm guessing the battery isn't dead because it doesn't slowly stop to nothing like a dead battery would and start clicking. I double checked all the hoses to. After work I'm going to check out the cam because that's the only thing that I can think of that happened that sticks out as a problem to me
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 06:52 AM
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Yeah, that could be your cams. If they are lined up wrong, then when the pistons are in the "compression" stroke but your valve is shut due to the camshaft being off, it'll cause tons of back pressure and will not turn over easy (much less start).
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 02:10 PM
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does it matter if the timing belt marks have worn off and theres nothing to match up to the cam marks? i never marked it the first time i was there

Last edited by zanzabar0; Nov 5, 2013 at 02:12 PM.
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Old Nov 5, 2013 | 03:15 PM
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The marks on the timing belt are just to help you install it the first time. They are not always right-on after that. Instead, you need to use the marks (and dimples) on the cam pulleys and crank pulleys. Line them up with the corresponding marks on the engine.

Look up how to set timing on the forum here. It is not hard, but can take a few tries the first time.

Last edited by Sturmcrow; Nov 5, 2013 at 03:16 PM.
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Old Dec 1, 2013 | 05:00 PM
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hey sorry for not getting back, brought the truck to a shop and installed new belt, water pump tstat pulleys and ac belt. everythings back to normal now
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