Hi Everyone,

I've recently begun to start on the SAS portion of my 94 Toyota pickup rebuild and wanted to ask what people think of my current shackle angle. I currently have the all pro spring hanger and 4" trail gear springs. Right now everything is off the truck so its pretty much frame only. I've posted a few pictures of the shackle angle and front spring hanger. Currently I have the spring hanger flush with the front of the frame and only mocked up with clamps so its easy to move around.

Thanks everyone

 

Looks like it would be good once there is weight on the springs

 

Just a suggestion, just tack it for now until you get the engine/cab etc on it.
If shackle angle looks ok after all the weight are on the springs than burn it in...

 

The plan is to tack in place for now until I get more weight on it. From the other pictures I've seen this looks very similar to others. I was expecting to have the hanger forward a touch with the 4" spings but maybe not. Thanks for the replys

 

one thing to keep in mind is that shackle length can change the pinion angle... which may not matter, because you should be running a dual cardan cv joint in the front drive shaft anyway.

my '86 sas has 5" shackles on it(center hole to center hole), and since I moved the front axle housing forward, they are nearly vertical at normal ride height... slightly pointing back, not forwards.

if this is going to be a daily driver... take a look at davez no-wobble shackles... not because they "stop" death wobble, that is caused by other problems... what they do is they screw down all of the metal parts tightly, so that you don't have hole wear in the shackles, where the bolts come through... every other non-oem shackle on the market is cr*p by comparison.

not easy to install, and I wasn't impressed with the quality of the machine work on the tubes, but i'm really glad that i'm running 'em.

 

My understanding is the you use a CV when the drive flange/pinion POINTS to the T case flange. If the flanges are parallel then its U joints both ends.

 

I've looked at Daves no death shackles and they do look like a good setup. I might have to give them a try. Thanks for the info everyone.

 

that is correct, but it also depends on the driveshaft angle... u-joints only go so far... with a single trans case, you'll have a short driveshaft, better check the angles with a cheap protractor.

most people will cut and turn the front axle housing, so that it is pointing at the transfer case, so they must run a cv... I had that problem on the rotated rear axle, got a lot of bad vibration, the p.o. did not put a double cardan in the rear driveshaft.

on my front axle, both flanges were parallel, but I had to replace the driveshaft, and I went ahead and used a cv driveshaft, anticipating that I would cut and turn the axle housing later... unlike the rear axle situation that I had, there hasn't been any vibration penalty for running a cv joint when the flanges are parallel... I've tested it at up to 45 mph on a dirt road.

the other way to look at it is that Toyota put the expensive double cardan joint on mid '90's(?) 4runner front driveshafts, when it would have been far cheaper and simpler to use standard u-joints at instead... those shafts make wonderful cores, get 'em if you can find 'em... the one that I pulled had a stout metal guard all the way around the cv joint.

 

Went ahead and tacked the front hanger into place flush with the front of the frame. Will be awhile before I get weight on it but at least I feel like it will easy to adjust later on if the final shackle angle is not to my liking