Hey everyone I have a 83 4wd pickup with a 22r motor I recently did a rebuild in the motor and replaced almost everything except for the carb. My truck has been idling really bad and making my motor move side to side wanting to die until it does die or I give it gas. I'm pretty sure it's the carb but I have no idea on tuning carbs. I'm also getting so much black smoke/water coming out of my tail pipe that it stains the drive way. Do I need to rebuild my carb or is it just running to rich? Or am I dealing with other problems here and advice will help
Thanks

Here's a pick of how it stains my drive way

 

Looks like its definitely running rich. And a rebuild may be in order. But first verify all vacuum hoses are properly routed and no vacuum leaks. I.e. Carb base gaskets, intake manifold gaskets, brake booster, EGR, etc...

If you have mis-routed vacuum lines, doing a rebuild would be pointless. If it's been de-smogged, you will have to verify the necessary hoses are routed to the correct source at the right time, if there have been VSVs removed. (Vacuum switching valves, they allow vacuum to certain places at certain times to aid in warm-up, emissions, etc.)

 

Step one loosen factory aisin carb.
Step two toss in nearest trash can.
Step three install weber.
Step 4 enjoy.

 

I never understood why every one hates on the Aisin carb. It's actually a good unit. Basic, easy to tune, and readily available since everyone puts Webers on....

 

No one who has ever dissassembled an aisin carb would ever say its simple.
It's worse than a quadrajet.

Its not reliable, its a hunk of crap.

 

Thanks for the help I just wish I could do the rebuild myself but I'd probably make things worse the carburetor mechanic wants 150 for a rebuild and tune idk if I should just invest that to a new carburetor.

 

You think a Quadrajet is hard to rebuild? I can see how you think an Aisin is difficult then... And I beg to differ on the reliability standpoint. I've had great luck on many Aisin carbs.

 

So I haven't fixed the issue yet or rebuilt the carb but when I drive the truck around until it warms up really good the truck will idle fine and won't shut off it's just when it's cold that it performs really bad

 

First thing to do is check the fuel level in the float bowl via the sight glass. A high fuel level will cause an overly rich fuel setting in all fuel circuits.

Second is to check or replace (depending on how many miles it is on) the fuel filter.

If the two things above are in spec, then you could only remove the top Air Horn to get a look inside the float bowl to see what kind of condition bowl is in, if its dirty or not. You'll need to remove the two arms connected to the top of the Air Horn, then the three screws.

 

What can be the reason for my choke not turning on when the truck is cold?

 

The choke on the stock Aisan carburetor does not "turn on" as you call. it. It does not function as a electric choke, where the choke needs electric power to engage the choke.

The Choke Valve, at the top of the primary barrel (the left side barrel, viewed standing in front of the engine), is connected to a bi-metal spring inside the choke coil housing. The bi-metal spring is temperature controlled independently of any other carburetor part. On a cold day the bi-metal spring exerts force to automatically close the Choke Valve. However, because the Choke Valve is indirectly connected to the Fast Idle Cam, the Choke Valve may not close on its own. When Toyota's cold engine start procedure is performed by pressing and releasing the gas pedal at least twice, this action frees up any tension or friction on the Choke Valve. Therefore, pumping the gas pedal, at least twice, does two things. One it engages the Fast Idle Cam, and two it engages the Choke Valve to close.

In this next picture, ignore the whole Choke Relay. Our trucks do not use this relay. Just pay attention to the Choke Valve and coil relationship.




Once the engine is started, 12 volts from the alternator feeds the Electric Heat Coil in the choke coil housing. As the Bi-metal Element is heating up, via the heating element, the bi-metal spring slowly exerts force to open the Choke Valve.

However, the bi-metal choke spring is not strong enough to pull the Fast Idle Cam off its setting, unless one of two things is done. One, is that after a few minutes of the engine running, the choke coil is forcing the Choke Valve to open, if you were to blip the throttle, then the pressure is removed from the Fast Idle Cam from the main throttle valve so that the Fast Idle Cam can move. Remember, that the Fast Idle Cam and the Choke Valve are indirectly connected via an actuating arm. The reason that the Fast Idle Cam can not move, via the choke spring, is that the Fast Idle Cam is physically holding open the main (primary) throttle valve. The spring force of the throttle valve is greater than that of the bi-metal spring. Two, once the coolant controlled Bi-metal Vacuum Switch Valve senses the correct temperature, vacuum is switched to the Choke Opener diaphragm which physically removes all cold engine choke related settings.









If you choke is not engaging when you pump the throttle, then you either have some binding going on, dirty arms that prevent the valve to freely move, or the choke spring is broken.

 

Thanks slo mo I appreciate you taking your time and explaining all of this to me I'm learning more and more about these carbs.

 

I'm starting to get frustrated here!! So I decided to just get my carburetor rebuilt so my dad took it for me the other day. They swapped the whole carburetor for another one cause my dad didn't want to wait. I get home from work turn it on and it fired right up ( usually it was taking me a few tries to turn it on) I drive it around and I noticed the idle was really high and my dad said it was fine when he brought it home. so today I take it back to the guy and he thought I messed with the idle I told him I didn't touch it. So he turns it down and has me drive it around to make sure it doesn't change and it didn't. So I leave and get home and when I go to turn it on about 30 min to an hour later the idle is lower then what it was like if it changed again. Does anyone know what this issue might be is it something else besides the carb??