I have an 87 4Runner with a fresh rebuild. Block and head.

The block is a 22r with dome pistons and with an early efi R head.

The exhaust ports are circles with what looks like air intake ports on top.

I have a header and am not sure what to do with those ports and if that's even what's causing the glow.

The sparks are most likely caused by a misaligned belt tensioner so that's one things im going to look into.

Cylinder #1 seems to misfire and there is spark from the plug.

Any suggestions?

 

Those Ports are for air injection. Smog stuff. As far as the glowing header...id start by checking the timing. Seen tractors do this

 

Are the air injector ports supposed to be blocked off or open? If they are yo be blocked, how? It doesn't look like my pacesetter header will cover them. If I put a good gasket on there I think it will still leak through.

I will adjust the timing today.

 

I don't know if the pacesetter will or not. My lce header did tho. And you will need air injection block off plates.

 

^-- x2 on block of plates.

Glowing header...?

Verified temperature...?

If it is indeed getting hot enough for the headers to start to glow red then combustion temperatures are too high.

-Possible excessively rich fuel mixture.

-Compression too high...?

-Exhaust system restrictions...?

 

Maybe compression too high with too much fuel considering its a 22r with dome tops.

 

I've always thought too much fuel will make it run cool, too much air will make holes in your engine. My instructor has always said that running rich is better than running lean.

 

That is correct!

 

Running rich and running lean are never appropriate operating conditions for an engine.

Excessive fuel entering combustion chamber that ignites causes excessive temperature.

"More wood on a fire... fire grows larger eh..?"

 

I got a header gasket and I do have the block off plates.
I'm not certain that the header is glowing anymore or not, but it sure is running a lot better now that it has the back pressure back.

Now I have a backfire when shifting gears especially into or out of second and a stutter at low rpm or mph (haven't decided which yet/)

ALSO What difference would be made with the compression?

I have domed pistons with a domed chamber.

Let me also state that this is running as an EFI system.

 

Also something unrelated. When I got the truck,, high beams didn't work. Flash mode did though. Now tonight the headlights completely shut off and the high beam indication came on. Weird, huh? I thought it was the relay but it doesn't click when I turn high beams on. Just on flash mode and low beam.

 

Not having block off plates for your head's emission ports will allow in unmetered air, allowing it to run lean. Running lean means excessive air, which has a tendency to burn holes in your pistons and fry your valves...

 

There are plates.

 

No ideas on the backfire?

 

Probably related to the misfire. Backfires are usually caused when unburnt fuel ignites in your exhaust...

 

Usually the "Cherry Manifold" is from timing being to far advanced. Your high beams not working is most likely the contacts in the switch just need cleaning. Not sure why both high and low beams quit working. To clean the contacts for high beam, I show how I fixed it in my 88 Runner build below, it is listed on the first page as to where to find it in my thread.

 

Thanks for the helpful information.

I discovered today that the collector gaskets set fire and a bolt is missing. I suppose my buddy didn't tighten them down enough and I need to never let him do anything on my truck again.

I suppose the backfire is from that and will see if a couple new gaskets will fix it.

 

My truck does the exact same thing. Needs new switch or contacts cleaned as someone else mentioned.
As far as the red hot header, I would first of all properly block the air injection holes. Get it all fixed and check it again. And I wouldn't be too concerned if it runs well, the timing is correct, and there's no pinging. It is a header and exhaust is hot. Steel will start to glow around 900° or so. Not out of the range of normal.

 

Terrys87 has a good post as he mentioned in his above comment, but it confused me a bit as to the contact cleaning. You should check it out as well. I'm going to try and tackle that tomorrow.
Also, I have not seen the header glow since I put the new header hasket on with the block off plates as well.
Any idea how I can fit my 87 knock censor on this older block? I don't have a boss big enough and don't really like the idea of drilling into the motor mount..

 

Weld a nut to the side of the block