Old Clutch Question
#1
Old Clutch Question
Hello all, brand new to the forum. I have an '02 V-6 Tacoma TRD I bought new. It has 230,000 miles on it and still counting. It still has the original clutch, which seems to still be working fine. It starts to catch with the pedal about halfway out and seems to be fully engaged with the pedal about 3/4 of the way out.
Here's my question: Even though it is working fine I can't help but feel the clutch is on borrowed time. Short of it starting to slip a little, how do you know when it's about used up? I was told they are good until the pedal comes almost completely out before starting to engage, but I don't know. I do know I don't want to have it decide to start slipping on me 10 miles off the pavement in the middle of Nevada.
Thanks much for your help and insight.
THBailey
Here's my question: Even though it is working fine I can't help but feel the clutch is on borrowed time. Short of it starting to slip a little, how do you know when it's about used up? I was told they are good until the pedal comes almost completely out before starting to engage, but I don't know. I do know I don't want to have it decide to start slipping on me 10 miles off the pavement in the middle of Nevada.
Thanks much for your help and insight.
THBailey
#2
I would say that if you have any doubts on it that you should replace it before heading out on any long distance trips. Wouldnt want to get stranded out there haha. But at 230,000 miles on the original its probably getting close to time for a new one. Just my 2 cents
#3
From experience, once it starts to slip in 5th under heavy load...you've still got ATLEAST several thousand miles worth of DD use in it. But that's when you need to start worrying about it. Until then, you'll pretty much be wasting a still good clutch if you go ahead and replace it.
Last edited by MudHippy; Aug 27, 2013 at 05:17 PM.
#4
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From: I live in New Tripoli Pa out in the woods
Some people just have much better clutch skills then others.
Do yourself a favor don`t let anyone else drive your truck or you will be changing a clutch.
If your to the point of being afraid to drive it then go ahead put in a new clutch kit.
Have you ever changed the hydraulics ?? I would worry more about them failing the the clutch parts.
Do yourself a favor don`t let anyone else drive your truck or you will be changing a clutch.
If your to the point of being afraid to drive it then go ahead put in a new clutch kit.
Have you ever changed the hydraulics ?? I would worry more about them failing the the clutch parts.
#5
Thanks for the replies guys-
MudHippy- What was your pedal doing when the clutch started to slip in high gear, was engagement right at the top of the pedal?
Wyoming9- I have never touched the clutch hydraulics other than to swap out the fluid. Matter of fact, I have enough fingers on one hand to count the work I have had to do on the truck outside standard maintenance, couldn't be happier with the rig.
dswag- Probably sage advice, although at this point I might want to try for the record!
MudHippy- What was your pedal doing when the clutch started to slip in high gear, was engagement right at the top of the pedal?
Wyoming9- I have never touched the clutch hydraulics other than to swap out the fluid. Matter of fact, I have enough fingers on one hand to count the work I have had to do on the truck outside standard maintenance, couldn't be happier with the rig.
dswag- Probably sage advice, although at this point I might want to try for the record!
#6
Well, just to complete the story I finally put the new clutch in at 257,000 miles. And kind of strange, the clutch disc still had a little more on it, but the part of the bell housing where the clutch fork pivot ball screws in broke off. The bill for the clutch kit and another bell housing was a bit eye opening.
#7
Good to see you updated what you made out on your clutch. As far as your original question, I see some only get 100k mile and others get many more. I either have the clutch fully engaged or fully disengaged and have been able to get more then normal miles out of one. I also think depending on where you have to drive in such as city or rural areas make a big difference as well.
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#8
Sorry for the lack of response. The pedal was acting normal, from what I remember. I only noticed the slipping by hearing(and seeing on the tach) it rev up, and not speed up.
I had to replace a pretty much new clutch in my 90 that started slipping and making a metal on metal grinding noise not too long ago. Turned out the PO put the disc in backwards. Which I still don't understand how it held at all. But apparently you can do that and still have it work...for a little while. Like until the springs start contacting the flywheel bolts.
I had to replace a pretty much new clutch in my 90 that started slipping and making a metal on metal grinding noise not too long ago. Turned out the PO put the disc in backwards. Which I still don't understand how it held at all. But apparently you can do that and still have it work...for a little while. Like until the springs start contacting the flywheel bolts.
Last edited by MudHippy; Feb 29, 2016 at 03:10 PM.
#9
I bought a truck with a bad clutch in it. It too was in backwards. It looked like it was still usable but I was afraid that the springs may have been damaged or compromised and did not want to have to pull the transmission in it again so replaced it.
Another issue I have ran into and a mechanic friend of mine had never seen is where the throw out bearing just locked up and would not spin at all in it. I know for sure the transmission had never been exposed to deep water. The bearing showed no sign of rust or anything. Not sure what caused it to lock up solid like it did.
Another issue I have ran into and a mechanic friend of mine had never seen is where the throw out bearing just locked up and would not spin at all in it. I know for sure the transmission had never been exposed to deep water. The bearing showed no sign of rust or anything. Not sure what caused it to lock up solid like it did.
#10
There's no doubt the springs are damaged in my case.

The real kicker is the words "FLYWHEEL SIDE" on the side of the disk he put facing the pressure plate.

Kinda sad because it looks like a pretty decent non-OEM clutch(Valeo). The pressure plate still looks virtually brand new. But it being non-OEM(also Valeo), I replaced it too. I've got a thing for AISIN clutches you see. No sense wondering if it's a good clutch or not. If it says "AISIN" on the box it's a guaranteed winner.

The real kicker is the words "FLYWHEEL SIDE" on the side of the disk he put facing the pressure plate.

Kinda sad because it looks like a pretty decent non-OEM clutch(Valeo). The pressure plate still looks virtually brand new. But it being non-OEM(also Valeo), I replaced it too. I've got a thing for AISIN clutches you see. No sense wondering if it's a good clutch or not. If it says "AISIN" on the box it's a guaranteed winner.
Last edited by MudHippy; Mar 1, 2016 at 03:45 PM.
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