I joined a few years ago planning on getting a pickup or 4runner and doing a swap and finally picked one up. Was planning on doing a JZ engine but I've owned mostly cars and I drive a lot so I'm used to good mpg (except my 1JZ Cressida 10-20mpg). Researched the OM617 too but decided on the 1UZ for a good compromise of power and mpg.

Here she is, $1100 with canopy, 2 sets of wheels and tires, 3VZ with leaking head gaskets and only 234k miles. My parents 1995 Tacoma behind has just 59k miles







KSRacing bellhousing is ordered up and hopefully getting an engine from a LS400 next week. I will be doing a detailed wiring guide since that's my specialty. I've wired up both LS400 and SC400 harness/ecu in Corollas already plus many other swaps. My friend Rob at Flipsidecustoms.com is going to do all the fab work

 

Nice ! Looks like a nice smoker ... Love the 3.slow.. Can't wait to see the progress!! I'm doing a 1uz swap on my 1994 runner ... I'm to the wiring part ...

 

Enjoying the redneck pool. Also cleaned and painted the spare set of wheels which have 31" tires.



Picking up a SC400 engine, harness and ecu tomorrow, also LS400 oil pan. Found 94 4Runner headlamps, grill and bumper at the local wrecking yard, so I'll be doing that conversion as well.

 

Looking forward to seeing the build!

 

. . .

 

I am running all my factory gauges on my 1uz powered 94 4runner. You can keep your gauges if you want them.

 

I've read you need to use the truck oil pressure sender but other than that everything else is fine. Water temp signal is the same, 4cyl tach is the same because it gets rev signal from only one of the two ignitors and V6 tach is adjustable. For cooling I'll try to use the stock radiator and will probably have to run some powerfull pusher fans but we'll see.

Here's the 86 Corolla I wired up


1983 Corolla

 

Finally getting my hands dirty



+Points for bringing the donor engine home with the truck it's going in



1st test fit just lowering it into the engine bay. Factory transmission location leaves little room for the radiator. Also anyone else with IFS have to move their steering dampener or remove it?



Cleansing the wiring harness. Will have a wiring guide soon!



Front sump LS400 from some cool local kid with a 1UZ Cressida. Also removed most of the hydro pump to run a shorter belt w/o A/C and still cover up the timing belt.

 

Yes the steering dampener needs to be removed. You will need to cut the loop off the the top of the relay rod as well. There is a steering stabilizer from Rancho that works out really well as a replacement. I don't remember the part number off the top of my head. But I will post it up as soon as I can find it again.

 

Looks awesome !! Can't wait to see the finished product !!

 

Subscribed. way to dive right in!

 

I am at the point in my swap were i am wondering what to do with the steering parts.
Is it dangerous to drive with out the stabilizer?


what do you do with the rag joint?

 

Steering stabilizer isn't absolutely necessary, but it will make a big difference when driving. Here is the Rancho Part number for the parts needed to relocate the stabilizer.

RS97273

As for the rag joint. That won't work, if there is interference. From the photo is looks like there is contact. It might just be the picture, if there not touching at all thru the entire steering cycle, then you should be ok. I am running the Tundra maifolds and they sit much closer to the block. You should replace that SC manifold you got with a set from a 2000 thru 2002 2UZ set

 

im using the ls manifolds, i cut off the flanges and welded on extensions for slip couplers..

are the ls manifolds stainless?, they welded fine with regular mig wire.
i have the sc manifolds also but never tried them out because they were stainless.

either way i cut out the ragjoint and pieced in a section of bar for now. i am probably going to make a multi joint shaft with a pillow block bearing to pull it out of the way of the exhaust manifold.

i also cut out the steering dampner as it was shot anyway.

 

Ls manifolds stick out too far! If u have the sc, use wat u got to save $. On the steering, u can delete the dampner, u wont need it, very little diff on road and 4x4. On mine 86 runner i kepted the female spline to the steering box side and weld a rod to the runners top portion of the steering shaft. I later switched it becuase i found the sc one look better and fits better and plus it was just laying around from the donor car. Why spend more $.....GL on the build... Mines is 99% done and need 1 thing to finally completting this project!

 

they are very wide.. i ended up puuting a 1" pillow block bearing on the fender well and used an extra shaft from my original 4runner. it works pretty well but it only has about 10 miles on it so far. i was having shifting problems do to wiring problems in the e11 harness @the ecu but now shifting good.
when diagnosing my problem i came upon a 35 page thread over at club lexus that talks about the lifespan of capacitors in the ecu being around 12 years especially in hot humid areas. these capacitors can and do leak onto the circuit board causing numerous problems with the way the vehicle runs or not depending on how much damage was done. this affects most all japanese cars through the 80s and 90s..

http://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls40...capacitor.html

its worth a read for sure. with the ecu out of the car it took me most of 20 minutes to fix and was only $10 in parts

 

When you're all done, I want to come see this. I have a sc'd 3.4 swap but looking for more. Keep up the good work.

 

the capacitor fix worked for me i was having random extra fueling and no idle on cold start now it starts first flick of the key. idle is still only around a grand cold but could be off because i started with a v6 tach than adjusted it back when i was running edis4. warm idle is around 450-600, im pretty sure this is low as it needs a little bit more to charge properly..(dim lights and slow heater)

hows that truck coming rally sauce?

 

Finally some progress



Bolted up to the transmission but not to the frame yet























I'm trying to avoid moving the whole drive-train and as you can see the motor is pretty far forward and high. Still looks like it will work. The plan now is to modify the lower oil pan so we can drop the motor about 2" which should be enough to fit the hood. Core support and hood latch will need to go away to fit the radiator but this should be easier and cost less than moving everything rearward.

I still need to get the flywheel modified, buy a clutch and figure out the headers but my bank account needed some recovery time after my recent trip to Maui. Still can't get over how many Yota's are on that island.

 

any updates?