I have a '97 4Runner that I am putting an '81 Waggy D44 in and have to change the carrier. I'm running 32" mudders now and don't plan on going bigger than 33"ers any time soon. I have been warned about locking the front end or putting in a lim-slip due to binding while crawling rocks. . I have ridden in several rigs with Detroit lockers in the rear and true trac up front do very well without binding. I don't have any intention on doing the hammers or anything that extreme, but I do want to be able to run the Rubicon, Fordyce, etc. I was thinking about leaving it open, but since I have to change the carrier now anyway it is a prime oportunity to add a Truetrac... please advise!!!

 

I have an ARB air locker up front.... Yes you can break things more easily, but if you learn when to use it and when not to, you'll be just fine.

 

In general rockcrawling use, the front end will slip enough to prevent binding. A rare exception to the rule would be the slabs on the Rubicon but usually there is enough dirt or one tire has less traction and binding doesn't happen. Worst case you could always leave one hub unlocked until you need it. This is what I've done on occasion but it gets to be a hassle.

 

Don't waste your $$ on a limited slip. You will regret it!

 

Thanks for all of the insite. I have left it open for know. I'll probably put in a selctable of some sort in the future. for now I think i'll be fine with detroit in the rear and open up front. I'm used to open front and rear anyway.

 

Personally, I think it is best to do it in steps like that if you've never wheeled a really capable rig before. It will help you to realize the differencce the mod makes and you can learn incrementally. If you just started out with a really capable rig, you'd probably get yourself in trouble with it...I know I would have if I started out that way.

 

I would agree with your incrimental build up, but I am in an interesting situation . I have a domino effect of changes that I feel need to happen at the same time, seems logical to me since I'm on a budget. I am solid axle swapping my 4Runner (change 1 ) putting in 4.56 gears (change 2... had to regear the front anyway, figured against going with the stock 3.?'s when i will eventually want to go with 4.56's) Then since stock is 3.? and I'm going with 4.56's in the front, I'm needing to change the rear 8" too with 4.56's (change 2b), then while I'm opening the 3rd from the 8", now would be a good time to throw in a locker (change 3). Then since I have to have a new front shaft made anyway now would also be a good time to put in the Marlin dual case (change 4... don't want to have to have the front shaft lengthened 2x ). Since I have everything opened up, wouldn't it be good to put in what i'm going to want at some point anyway while it's open instead of opening it up 2 or 3 times and going over my budget ? I hope that the incriments that I have made so far (2" lift, 285's, rock sliders, and about 10 excursions on them) will prepare me for this next big group of changes.

 

If you are using a Toy front axle it should have 4.10's in it. Most front axles have 4.10's..unless you use an older one (I think 79-80). You can buy used 4.10 third members for $50-100. That can help you in the mean time. If your front comes with a 4.10 and the rear is 4.10, you won't have to change anything right away.

Also, I am assuming you have a welder if you are doing an SAS (If not, you should buy one - it will save you $$ in the long run). To save on d-shafts - sleeve your old front d-shaft when you SAS and then resleeve it when you do duals. (Since in 4wd you don't really go over 35mph, you won't have to worry about balancing).

While I agree that it would be most cost efficient to do everything at once, you are talking about alot of money and alot of down time.

Edit: I just read you are doing a d44 front. I think you will save $$ by doing a toy. And, the spring pads and brake fitting will be correct. Plus - thirds fit both front and rear. Some say that built Toy front axles are stronger than built d44 fronts.

 

OK, to buy a welder and all the fixings you are looking at almost 1000 bucks if going with a MIG. Not to mention this is not a project where you learn how to weld, you start small. This is terrible advice.

He would save nothing by going with a Toy front. The spring pads are NOT in the right place. You have to get new brake lines for the solid axle anyways, so brake lines are a total wash. Whoever told you a built Toy front axle is stronger than a built 44 needs to have the stupid knocked out of him. That is completely false...

 

1. If he practices welding he will be fine. Of course he won't just go at it right away. A used welder is well under $1000. And, the work he's doing could be done with a 135, which is nice and cheap.

2. As far as spring pads, you are right. I thought he had an older 4runner.

3. A toy axle with 300m's and Longs is a bit stronger than a d44 with warns and CTM's...but we could argue about that all day. Plus, interchable thirds (between front and rear) is a definite advantage. He can carry one spare when wheeling...I'd like to see someone set-up a d44 r&p on the trail.

4. Go back to bed and wake up on the other side. Obviously, whichever side of the bed you are waking up on is NOT working for you.

 

1. If he practices a bunch, sure. A 135 goes for around 500 new. Then you have about 100 bucks for the tank and gas, another 50 for gloves helmet and such, then another 50 or so in tax and junk. 600 bucks for a marginal welder new. IMHO 135s aren't worth it when you can pay a little more and get a 175 that can do just about everything.

2. Given...

3. This is not true. While strong with 300M inner and longs, that is still weaker than CTMs and alloys. Not to mention the weaker housing.

4. You don't know how right you are on this one

 

He cant use a toy front anyway, he has a 3rd gen. The diff is on the wrong side.

also, i noticed that you are doing a spring under while SAS? May i ask why? I guess if in the future you want to go spring over then leaf the back, i could see it. But why do a SAS if you plan on gaining no aditional lift and wont be able to flex it? You may actually loose ground clearance doing this.

Once again, im going to have to agree with 44runner, the dana 44 is a stronger axle than the toy. You can argue about this all day, but in the end the 44 will always come out on top if they have equal mods.

 

I understand your inquery about the spring under... honestly I didn't want a huge lift with huge tires to walk over everything. I wanted to keep it as low as possible and crawl the rocks then go bomb the desert and worry less about the complexities of the IFS breaking. I busted my outter cv cup on the Gatekeeper. Didn't even look real bound up. Anyway, the problem I'm beginning to see is the oil pan clearance for the front diff, even with the T-100 pan set up. I think I will have about 2" of travel left after moving the bump stops low enough to clear the pan. not acceptable. Spring over and 35's here I come!!! The welding bit... I have a friend that allows me access to his equipment. I built and welded my sliders and rear bumper with his guidance. He's going to help me with the swap.