My heater is not working period. So I replaced the blower motor since it was burnt out, the relay, checked the fuses, pulled the dash and checked all the wires, and tried to jump the switch to see if the switch is bad. So I need help since it is getting colder and I need a working heater asap.

The relay clicks but noting blows
The AC button doesn't light up and there is a wire missing from the AC fuse box (maybe that might help?)

 

Under the hood on the firewall is a white mechanism that can split and fail the heater for what reason I do not know. It's on the driver side. Sorry about the vagueness I sold my pickup about six months ago

 

As you slide the lever from cold to hot it opens a valve that allows coolant to be diverted to the heater core. This is right there on the firewall under the hood. You should be able to feel if the linkage is disconnected if the slider moves back and forth too easily. If the valve opens and closes your heater core is probably plugged. If so you may be able to swap the hoses going to the heater core to reverse flush it. I haven't tried this on my truck but it worked on my other car, it's just a matter of making the hoses reach. It could take a while depending how plugged it is, took a couple weeks in my car, but it was pretty bad.

 

As I understand your problem, the heater fan is not running, but you can hear the heater relay actuate (click) when you move the heater switch away from "off." You have a new heater fan and new heater relay.

You checked "the fuses," but did you check the heater fuse? http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/powersou.pdf If the heater fuse is good, pull it out and check for voltage to ground on each side of the fuse with the fan switch "on." You should get 12v on one side, 0 on the other. Turn the fan off, then using the ohms scale check for continuity to ground on the side of the fuse with 0v. That's through the fan motor to ground. If you get no continuity to ground, you have a broken wire on the way to the fan motor. It won't be that hard to find.

Obviously, for ANY electrical problem you need a meter. It costs less than any one of the parts you've already replaced on the blind. http://www.harborfreight.com/7-funct...ter-98025.html

[Your heater core may or may not be plugged, but it doesn't have anything to do with whether the fan motor runs. Clearly, you want to fix that first.]