So i did my routine oil change & apparently strong armed my plug... Its now stripped and leaking all over my driveway. It would be SOOOO AWESOME if anyone has any ideas on how to get the POS to back out of the hole. It spins freely and catches rarely but never enough to get the threads started again. Do i have to drop the pan? Any crazy ideas would be greatly appreciated, its my only rig and i need it for school lol

 

Vise grips, really tight, and pull out as you thread it out. Once you get it out a wee bit, you can get a screwdriver/pry bar under the shoulder and pry slightly as you thread it out.


But it's a good chance that the pan is stripped as well, because it's usually softer threads than the bolts, so be prepared to do a pan as well....

 

I have been that for the last 3 hours. It wiggles a rediculous amount to not just fall out already. I guess im just gonna have to keep at it ah?

 

Are you just pulling? The threads will still grab a little bit so try and spin the bolt while pulling. Or just drop the pan and change it becasue you'll probally have to anyways.

 

Pulling and twisting. It feels like the "nut" on the inside is broke loose. Ur right im gonna need a new pan anyways...

 

Were you using an impact to put it on? I never understood how people strip out the pan plug.

 

nope, no impact. just a closed end 14mm wrench.

 

Usually it begins when someone along the life of the truck installs a drain plug with a slightly different thread pitch. Or just a little more tightening every time the oil is changed. It eventually makes the threads so thin that just a few in/lbs of tightening will be the end....

 

In all honesty, you're gunna have to bite the bullet on the cost of the oil that you put in and drop the pan...

Get a large oil collector, some gloves and get ready to get dirty. Drop the pan, give it a good cleaning and get that bolt out of there. If you're lucky, you can chase the threads. If not, you're going to need to a slightly larger size and tap to that size. Before you put the pan back on, bring it on down to your local hardware store and find the matching size hardware. Get a new washer/rubber while you're there.

 

i found a used oil pan for 30 bucks which isn't bad. now i am trying to figure out how to NOT swim in the oil all over the drive way... any ideas on a good quality gasket?

 

Ultra black or grey silicone. Available at any parts stores. Ultra is oil resistant. Or Toyota FIPG. (Form in place gasket?)

 

Do it right with FIPG from the dealer. It cures FAST so I recommend you do a few practice runs on installing the pan without the gasket material on, so when the time comes, you can do it fast, without smearing FIPG all over the place (use gloves, that stuff is nasty (why it's so good at what it does!).

You have IFS so you may need to drop the front diff to make room for the pan.... Oh, and note that you have an oil pickup tube in there, which will get in the way when taking off the pan AND installing it.

When you install the new one, make sure surfaces on the block and the pan are CLEAN (brake parts cleaner and razor blades), and then snug up the 14 (?) bolts, but not 100% tight....do it in a "star" pattern so you tighten it evenly and it's flush to the block. Let it sit overnight. Then, take your torque wrench to it and tighten to 9 lb/ft each, again in the star pattern.

THEN, fill up with oil.

GL!

 

How does The Right Stuff compare to the FIPG? I use that just because its available at any parts store and I'm guessing its cheaper although probably not much at $15 a can.

 

Just a heads up.............. You can go to Napa, if you can't get time right now to pull the pan(Like I couldn't at the time! lol)... And pick up a Self Tapping Oil Pan Drain Plug for your year vehicle/threading. Mine has been in for 8K miles, hasn't leaked a drop since! And yes, I've changed the oil 3 times since installing it. I think it was worth the 11$ or whatever it was to TRY, rather than dropping my Pan which was FINALLY not leaking after 3 times in there in 2 years(bad machinist, don't ask, lol).... just FOR A BOLT? GRRR! haha.

Just a thought... If you can't get the dayum bolt out, that's possibly beyond 'SELF TAPPING DRAIN BOLT'... Not sure.

BTW, the type I have is a dual stage... It has the bolt you thread in.... and then a smaller one that you drain from. I used a lil bit of Toyota FIPG on the bottom one, the one with the washer they supplied, and torqued it up in there til really snug and pressing out the FIPG... And as I said... been leak free since

BTW2; This was on a pan that I SWAPPED IN ON THE LAST REBUILD I DID! I tested it as best as I could.... But after a few days, it began leaking hot oil.... TICKED! lol. My original pan got bent and I didn't wanna mess with it... So I got one from the Parts yard for 20$. SHOULDA GOTTA NEW ONE, IMHO! lol.

here's a pic of the self tapping bolt..........

 

Nothing against FIPG, but Ultra Black/grey is a bit cheaper and works just as well. It is oil and vibration resistant. I have used it on countless oil pans, valve cover half-moons, and front cover gaskets. Never had a leak. Put it on, let it cure, done. I have it as my 3RZ oil pan gasket and in 25K miles since the swap, no problems.

 

YEP, it's cheaper by the ounce, no doubt. The FIPG by Toyota that I used was on a return thing I got credit for.. Got a good size tube on 20% discount for .....20$ I believe? Maybe it was less. Anyway, the PAN, Cam seals, Half Moons and I believe Oil Pump Top mounting bolt got that FIPG at the Factory(Or at least that's what they use know when they do rebuilds)... I have NO PROOF that it's any better... And this last time, 'The Right Stuff' is exactly what I used, the squeeze lever can.... on my oil pan.... It's not leaked a drop. So I have nothing bad to say about it. I got it at Napa, so I'm sure I paid too much... I also grabbed some "Gear Oil RTV" while there... Which I don't normally see. No idea if it's any better with Gear oil, but I'm assuming there are a few differences in composition.... because Toyota uses the Orange Stuff for Gear Oil Applications, right?

I believe the Right Stuff is also "Coolant Resistant"... And one of them is actually Fuel Resistant, which many of the FIPG products are not. (I remember reading "Use Fuel tolerant RTV for the Intake Sealer bead that goes on the intake to head gasket".......